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Hetstaine

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About Hetstaine

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  1. On it. Today the needle gets a polish!
  2. Seems there is light at the end of my tunnel. I tried dropping down to 10-12ish psi and made a 70/30 and then a roughly 65/35 mix and with very light coats was able to achieve a fairly decent result. Much better than i had been doing anyway! I think the rest is now down to me practising spraying although i may step up to .35 if that helps with the dry tip issue in any way? I wasn't getting that problem anywhere near as much but was still cleaning the tip quite a bit to lessen it. Thanks a ton for looking in guys, it was doing my head in yesterday and was a bit confidence shattering lol! The hardest part i am finding is getting that sweet spot between just enough paint and ooops that was way too much. The line between the two is so much finer than i expected. Oh and to who asked above, i am mixing first and then pouring into the cup. I am also cleaning the gun regularly and emptying the tank at the end of my sessions as well as the reg intermittently. Another quick questions regards the Tamiya Retarder. Should i add a drop to a mix and will that help with dry tip? I'm unsure of what sort of amount i should use, if any. My basic mix today was 6 (drops) paint, 14 thinners when i was practising and down to 12 or 13 thinners at 12psi. I kept eyeing of the retarder but was hesitant to add any. Thanks again all, you've been a great help.
  3. Hopefully this is the right spot on the forum :) This is a 1/48 kit and my launching pad to 1/32. I just didn't want to screw up a more expensive 1/32 model while learning. I just received my Badger 100LG .25mm brush and 1/6hp 3l tank compressor...and i am really struggling to get a mix going without sputter/overspray or having to clean the tip every ten seconds. For starters i would have thought .25 would be giving me nice fine lines after some hours of practice but i am getting what i feel like is too much overspray even at the lightest touch of paint being engaged. I just finished two hours of mixing testing after much frustration and struggling for three days ...and nights, and decided i need help :) Hopefully that's where you guys come in. To start with, this is the brush and some closeups of the tip just to show that it is centered and seems fine so i can rule that out. I've been all through Dons airbrush, youtube reviews, guides, forums etc and nothing seems to work. The gun has been stripped and cleaned, there is no gunk in it i can see and air flows out as nicely as i think one should. Yet, I am able to produce a better and more modulated finish using spray cans at the moment so something is tragically wrong with either me, my mixes or the brush. Badger tip1 tip2 I started at a 50/50 mix of paint/thinners as that seemed to be a common starting point for newbies after looking at mixes etc for a couple of weeks before purchase, 33/67 is first in the pics so it is goes in thinners/paint ratio order. All of the paints and products are Tamiya- acrylic, X20a thinners and Tamiya retarder. The products i am using are all brand new, so no old crappy paint at all. I cleaned the tip in between every compressor psi change and you can see how the splatter happens almost immediately despite stronger and stronger thinner mixes. The brush was fully cleaned in between each mix change and i was using full air (push down) and the lightest possible paint application (pull back) that i could. chart size 33/67 mix 50/50 mix 60/40 mix 70/30 mix This one was the only one i used retarder in, just a whatever mix because i have tried 1 and two drops over the course of the last few days with a 50/50 mix and it doesn't seem to make a difference. whatevermix The following pic what i have managed to do in between cleaning, many many mixes and a lot of head scratching. It has been a struggle that i have not much enjoyed despite spending a long time researching mixes and newby airbrushing tips and guides over the last month and a half. I don't expect to come out swinging with home runs on my first bat.. but i also didn't expect to be fighting so hard just to get the extreme basics down. FW190 I have sharpened the picture to try and highlight the overspray and splatters as the light i am using at night is bright af and knocks around the detail and colours. The model has been undercoated, preshaded (terribly) sprayed with the colours you see then 1500 grit sanded owing to splatters and basically horrible paint work. At this stage i started respraying but gave up until i sort out what i am doing wrong. The stand outs are the oval blue section under the front of the cockpit. Splatters and overspray. I am using the lightest possible paint pull pressure so as to avoid runs so it isn't me just gunning like mad. I am finding it near impossible to achieve any sort of neat light coat at the moment, basically spraying away from the model onto paper to avoid the initial splatters and once it is going smooth enough to paint, i move over the model. Any more pressure than an extreme light pull and too much paint is coming out meaning i have to move super quick to avoid runs or instant paint blots. I could definitely use it for 1:1 scale plane detail but for modelling i am at a loss. The thing that really throws me is the amount of overspray even a simple dot or thin line produces at the lightest possible pressure. Is mixing really this much of a black art or am i just way off base here? Also should i not be able to get very light coats with this brush and needle without it either splattering or being so thin it runs?? A happy medium seems well beyond me at the moment and i really don't want to be that guy blaming his tools, the only thing i would like to change is a heavier spring to give me a bit of feel as it does seem horribly light. The spring adjustment does nothing to help feel in that area unfortunately. It's all rather frustrating and any advice is muchly appreciated.
  4. I'll definitely be staying staying tuned Jay, and yes, standard hot Aussie summer. Thick skin, good beaches to head to on the weekends and hiding indoors with the aircon on when it gets too be to much. I managed to do most of my modeling outdoors last year which was nice, way to hot inside but the cooler weather is coming so i can creep back into the garage once my airbrush turns up and hide away in the dark.
  5. Not very often, if ever, have i read a topic in the last twenty odd years on the internet and then gotten up and walked away shaking my head. Your work and attention to detail is sublime Jay. Reading through this is in two sittings, your passion and enjoyment for this project has come through my screen and left me smiling. Really lovely work and i 'm glad you could share that passion with so many people.
  6. I love you changed your mind with a base colour and just do it. I've been at that tipping point and once the decision has been firmly made i can soldier on through happy with my new choice. What tipped you over to make the change?
  7. Regards organising. I used to skin planes for flight sims, European Air War, IL2 series etc. Whatever i was skinning at the time got a research folder, Mk1 Hurri, Bf109G2 etc. Since i got back into modelling i've done the same. At the moment i've got an FW190A8 folder on the go with as many references to the actual plane itself as well as modellers versions of the plane. I can be a bit pedantic as i like to keep stuff tidy and easy to find so i also have a weathering folder with pics, tutorials, some downloaded youtube vids and brand colour palletes. Like someone above i also copy and paste from forums to see how people achieve their work with differing styles and products. Half the fun is the research
  8. That pistol grip Sparmax is nice. I ended up finding one via a make up in Sydney, might be a bit pricey at $140 plus postage though. I have plenty to wade through now, just need to work out prices and see what i can end up with, thanks all!
  9. I have seen the SP35, is that the same? I am also looking at a Sparmax max4 that a guy is getting into stock next week. Eagle Driver beat me
  10. Not that cheap over here Jennings Around $110 for a 6kg tank and $50 for refills. Still, something further for me to look into and weigh up. Cheers!
  11. Thanks all. Looks like i'll start with the Neo. The only bad review i read was Dons which was a few years agonow and had to do with centreing which i believe has been resolved by Iwata since. @Kevin, thanks mate, just patience and time which i have plenty of atm. Plus i really wanted to attempt the three colour camo. The tracks were the real challenge as it was an original '96 or '98 kit and they were warped almost beyond use. I had to heat them in water and then set them in a jig to be able to use them as i like doing oob kits and seeing what you can get out of what is supplied. To do another one i would definitely get a current kit though! @Hardcore, nice to hear the Neo is a goer. I intend to box my compressor in and add some insulation to keep noise down for night spraying. Luckily i have a decent sized garage so should be able to make a nice setup. @Scanmandan, in my research travels i did see mentions of adding a trap closer to the brush owing to the heated air still carrying moisture further than the trap straight off the compressor. I'm in Brisbane so she does get fairly muggy up here! I looked at some of those gun type trigger brushes and would much prefer that type, maybe further down the line when money allows. I wonder if there is a mod kit to adapt the standard dual action trigger to a gun type? Once i do get setup practice will be the order of the day. I might grab a cheapo airfix kit for that purpose. I have an old but good pc power supply and a bunch of fans stashed in the cupboard so knocking out a booth should not be too hard a task if needed. The ones i have looked at online seem a bit small for the dollars. I reckon i could make a decent sized one with 4 or 5 fans across the back with some ducting cheaper. Thanks again all
  12. Hi all, new member here looking for some info on starter airbrush items. I have just recently got back into modelling in the last year after a 30 odd year absence ...and dear lord how it has all changed since i was a kid in the '80's sticking together Hurris and 109's destined for the firecracker pit within a few months! I've knocked out a bunch of Tamiya 1/35th armour and tried some academy kits as well at this stage and i'm really enjoying it again. Nothing like the peace (and frustration) of spending a few hours playing with plastic, glue, putty and paints. I'm not a big fan of the Academy stuff so far, maybe the Tamiya gear spoiled me but the fit and finish just seems a level below. The 1/48 F-111 that i am still tinkering with was rather painful, but, introduced me to puttying (that fuelage hump join was terrible oob to say the least) sanding and modding with card which was a good learning experience. With all of these builds i have used the Tamiya TS spray cans for prime coats and main colours and the XF range thinned down when brushing smaller pieces. Next on the table is Hasegawas 1/48 190A8 and after looking at what's available (RLM and the lack of) i don't think i can do it any justice without an airbrush. I also want to be able to have some say in how much paint i am laying down and the ability to detail, mix, thin etc. Cans don't give me that option. I already have a good range of Tamiya paints, X20A, glues, knives, brushes, weathering kits etc plus some oil and chalk weather mixes in bottles that i have made up. I want to be able to see what i can learn with this 1/48 kit before i step up to the 1/32 jobs. At this stage i can afford only one brush so it has to do the lot, detail, prime etc. Looking at starter brushes i am leaning towards the Neo for Iwata .35mm as it is dual action and gravity fed ...and cheap. Cheap unfortunately is the operative word atm. Most reviews on the Neo seem good and it seems they stepped up the quality a bit from their initial production run.The cheapest i can find a Neo down under is $76.00 plus postage. Still searching for a H&S price and availability. The cheapest Badger i can find is the Badger 100, dual action gravity feed for $160. A bit on the dear side for me atm. Then there is the Sparmax, also dual action gravity fed in either .2 or .3 versions for $90 There are Artlogic .3mm dual action brushes for only $60, no idea how these fare against the more common brands and whether they are any good at all or if they would just be an exercise in frustration for a beginner owing to it's cheapness and possible build quality and tolerances. Another entry level brush that i have seen good reviews on is the H&S ultra but i am struggling to find it available in Australia. It accepts .2 and .4mm so gives a bit more flexibilty than the Neo i would think? Still searching for a H&S price and availability so it may be not available here. Compressor. I would like to get one with a tank (and reg) so i don't have pulse issues, can adjust pressure and it doesn't have to constantly run. I am currently looking at the 1/6hp Artlogic AC1418 3.0L tank, 50 psi max, 23 lpm model for $180 I will also need cleaning fluids (sticking with the Tamiya range of XF paints atm) some sort of airbrush cleaning kit and maybe something like the iwata table top cleaning station? Will that all be enough to get me on my feet? Being in Australia everything seems dearer than the rest of the world and i do want to make sure i get the best bang for my buck and don't end up with cheap rubbish. Any help on everything i would need to get up and going is muchly appreciated If allowed, as an example, here is a pic of what is probably the best kit i have managed so far with cans. It was also my first foray into using $3 play doh for masking. It does show to me how lifeless i think my kits are turning out though with a lack of preshading, using highlighting, modulation or any of the other styles you can achieve with an airbrush.
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