A340 Pilot

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kitty-hawk/736521713066784

Not as far as I know. Some modellers used the redundant canopy in the Hasegawa kit.

I dont think the eduard PE is a waste of money. I am really not a fan of PE details sets for modern cockpits, but for WW2 aircraft cockpit, they can add a good amount of details to get a busy cockpit.
The MDC cockpit is very good, but it is designed for the Hasegawa kit. I dont know if it is easy to adapt to the Trumpy kits, so i cant tell.
 
I have not used the P-47N Eduard set yet (but have it in the stash), but i did with the "D", and it brings nice stuff. With a bit of very easy and simple scratch built parts, you can have something pretty good in my opinion. And the PE seat is a very good addition and really looks like sheet metal, as it is really sheet metal.
However, i think that the pre-painted parts often need to be repainted to the correct color, to match the other parts.
 
Here is my P-47D build with the first pictures being of the cockpit with parts from the Eduard PE detail set (the seat belts are from HGW) :
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=49771

You see a model kit that strikes your fancy but you can't fit it in the budget!
 
You figure the same kit will be around at that "cheap" price as you've seen it many times before and when you have the bucks to buy it, the damn thing has suddenly shot up in price!
 
You finally score that kit you wanted but it is someplace overseas and you wait, and wait, and wait. Then you contact the seller and find out the item was shipped but no tracking number!
 
Or there is a tracking number so you track it from Europe to New York where it disappears!
 
Or you track it and find it was "delivered" but not to you!
 
Your long awaited kit shows up looking like a truck ran over it and the mailman left it on your doorstep in the rain!
 
You start building that favorite kit and suddenly find a vital part missing. You search high and low for it and when you finally find it, it's full of teeth marks from the dog, who just happens to be sitting there wagging his tail with a look of pride on his face!

Thick card!
 
I paint the bomb whatever base colour the band (or bands) need to be. I then set the bomb body vertically on appropriate blocks and set up a pencil (horizontally) at the forward position of the line and mark the line around the bomb.
 
I then cut an appropriate diameter hole in a piece of cardboard (although plastic card would probably work as well) to match both the line position on the bomb (just aft of the pencil line) and of the correct thickness for the required band.
 
I chamfer the inner diameter of the cardboard to ensure a snug fit on the bomb surface. I then hand paint or spray the external bomb colour with the card masks in place and remove them when the paint is sufficiently dry, leaving the coloured bands on the bomb body (I have found that this method also works for propeller spinners).
 

 
HTH
 
Derek

Is there a week that goes by without a new kit announced? 
 
http://www.lukgraph.pl/products.html

The thing won't be big enough! Time to find plans to make a Lincoln from this puppy. Because who needs shelf space, anyway?

http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=282024

Howdy folks,
 
I've just published my review of the new panel line washes from AK Interactive:
 
AK Interactive Paneliner Washes
 

Enjoy!
 
Kev

Thanks mate,from pics of the now restored Guinea found 1,the colour is dark indeed,i ll try the mix

http://www.flickriver.com/groups/ejectionseats/pool/

Yiorgos,
 
This ma help (extract taken from the 'Widow's web' site):

"Here is some information about the colors used for the P-61.


The interior of the P-61 was NOT zinc chromate. the following is from the book "DARKLY DANGEROUS" by Frederick A. Johnsen. The author's father, Carl M. Johnson, worked in lofting for Northrop. "All exposed interior surfaces of the gunner's, pilot's and radio operator's compartments shall be finished with Northrop Cockpit Green (12 oz. of black camouflage enamel AAF 14109 to one gallon of zinc chromate primer Spec.No. AN-TT-P-656). this includes the seats and all other interior parts and surfaces except the instrument panels which will be dull black. Interior surfaces visible from the exterior shall be finished with one coat of dull enamel, AAF Spec.No. 14109 to match exterior surfaces. All unexposed interior surfaces of the gunner's, pilot's and radio operator's compartments, as between the flooring and the crew nacelle bottom, shall be coated with zinc chromate primer only, Spec.No. AN-TT-P-656. All exposed interior surfaces and parts of the turret compartment shall be finished with two coats of darkened (yellow-green) primer, Spec.No. 3-100-I. Unexposed interior surfaces of the turret compartment shall be finished with zinc chromate primer, Spec.No. AN-TT-P-656. All interior surfaces of the cannon compartment shall be finished with two coats of darkened primer (yellow-green), Spec.No.3-100-I." Your best bet for the interior color is Testor's Model Master Interior Green. See the next paragraph below for the ENTIRE airplane painting instructions.


And here is some more.


PAINTING THE P-61A The archetypal Black Widow was gloss black overall, with red numbering and lettering, and blue and white national insignia. But other paint schemes were tried. Prototypes flown for stateside tests often were natural metal, sometimes with yellow cowlings. Early night camouflage attempts included dull black paint, but the high-gloss paint was found, in tests, to reflect rather than disperse searchlight beams, making it difficult for ground observers to detect when the beam was on the glossy plane. Early P-61As were finished in olive drab upper surfaces with gray undersides before the characteristic gloss black was mandated. From July to September 1943, the national insignia was outlined in red. This scheme showed up on some of the camouflaged olive and gray P-61As being built during that time period. After that time, the insignia was surrounded in the same dark blue as the field around the star. The Erection and Maintenance tech order-- the "Dash Two" manual-- for early P-61A aircraft specifies the following painting requirements for olive and gray P-61s: "All aluminum and aluminum alloy surfaces shall be coated with two coats of zinc chromate primer, Spec.No. AN-TT-P-656, before receiving final paint finish, except when darkened zinc chromate primer is final finish, in which case darkened prime may be applied as a preliminary coat. no touch-up of primer is required prior to painting exterior finish." "Insignias, numerals and markings shall conform to customer's requirements and engineering drawings. Diameter of all cocarde circles shall be 25 inches. Decalsomanias or rubber (insoluble ink) stamps may be used for markings. All lettering shall be in insignia dull red, including radio call letters, shade No. 45 AAF bulletin No.41-A." "Fabric covered surfaces shall be doped with clear nitrate dope and camouflage dope until desired tautness is obtained. the following doping procedure shall be followed for all fabric surfaces: Three or more coats of clear nitrate dope by hand brush, Spec.No. AN-TT-D-514, and three or more coats by spray. One or more coats of pigmented dope, AAF Spec.No. 14106, No. 41 or 43 camouflaged dope to match surfaces as per AAF bulletin No. 41-A." "All upper surfaces shall be camouflaged with one coat of dark olive enamel, AAF Spec.No. 14109 and all under surfaces shall be camouflaged with one coat of neutral gray, shade 43 (AAF 14109)." "Insignia colors shall be dull finish and equivalent to the following shades: Insignia White AAF 14109-A No. 46; Insignia Blue AAF 14109-A No. 47." "Landing gear assemblies shall be left unpainted. No camouflage finish is required on the interior surfaces of the wheel wells."

I have tried this mixing this Northrop 'cockpit green' colour, to the same proportions, using Humbrol authentic zinc chromate yellow and matt black enamal paints...it comes out quite dark, almost a bronze green in colour. The above information is a useful guide to how most US manufacturers applied their interior colours (or, at least, their own interperation of it!).

HTH (or maybe not!)

Derek

Let me lead this off by saying that this topic will ultimately revolve around me building the 1/32 scale Hasegawa P-47 that's been sitting in my stash for some time, now. So, I posted this in LSP Discussion. However, if the mods feel that it belongs in GD, because of some of the other info I'm hoping to share and discuss, I will leave that at their discretion and respect their decision. Also, I'm going to apologize up front for being long winded here, but this particular opportunity warrants it, I believe.
 
For some of you that have read some of my build threads, you may have seen me refer to building "The One", on several occasions. What I mean by "The One", is that one particular subject, within a given aircraft type, that when you see it, you know it's just what you have to build. I'm the type of person that doesn't even like to start a model unless I know that it's "The One"; exactly which sub-variant, markings, pilot, etc. that I want to end up with and I'm usually very picky about that. So much so, that it has prevented me from building a lot of great kits, due to my indecisiveness. Well, the P-47 is just one of those subjects. I've seen a lot of amazing Thunderbolt builds on this forum and, while I wouldn't mind having any of them on my display shelves, I want to do something different than everybody else. Gabreski's Jug is cool. No doubt, but I want something more. Well, I think I have just found it (and possibly even two!).
 
As it turns out, I have an "email buddy" that I befriended through another hobby, where there's a group of us on a kind of email chain/discussion group, as we all share the same interests/hobby.  We've been communicating on a regular basis (often several times per day, in fact) through emails and even over the phone. Well, I've been sending photos of my completed models to these gents, who are all also ex-military, because they get a kick out of them, too. As it turns out, the grandfather of one of my friends was a Thunderbolt pilot with the 78th FG, out of Duxford. He is Lt. James "Jim" Kinsolving and any of you who are versed in the history of the 78th have probably heard of him (he is mentioned in the Osprey book, "Aces of the 78th Fighter Group"). He was awarded the DFC and the Air Medal. Mr. Kinsolving is alive and well, at the age of 94. Through discussing all of this with his grandson, I was emailed some photos from his personal collection, as well as granted access to his notes, etc. and have had some stories already related to me, including those of two different P-47s that he flew (a razorback and a bubbletop). I have been given permission to post these photos (some we believe have never been published). I will do so, as soon as I get them saved in the proper format (my email wasn't cooperating earlier).
 
So, it would appear that I've found "The One" in Jim's Bubbletop. The checkered nose and NMF was pretty much everything I could have dreamed for in a model of the Jug, but the story and connection behind this one seals the deal, of course. Although, the story behind his razorback is probably even more intriguing, but I'll save that for a bit later, when I have all the details in front of me. I will likely end up building at least one model of the bubbletop for myself, as well as another model in 1/48 for Jim's family, or possibly even two.
 
What I'm looking for from the experts, is anything they can tell me about these two aircraft, based on serial numbers alone, at this point. I'll have to go back and verify the Razorback serial, but I know the bubbletop is tail number # 226585, with the fuselage code of "MX-K". Any info on what block number that would be and details specific to that would be great. While I do LOVE the P-47, I'm far from an expert and my references on the type are limited to general aviation books and nothing Thunderbolt specific.
 
I'll post more as things progress, too.
 
Thanks!
 
John

Actually it's about 1/16" to high. Easy fix though, just cut the mount off and glue it back on 1/16" lower. Takes minutes to fix
 
I think you'll find the 1/24 offerings very sparse on detail for the scale which makes them a little toyish unless scratch detail is added.

There's nothing wrong with dreaming Jennings. You've now confirmed you were just teasing people, as Tim suggested, but it was fun while it lasted! However, I'd give good odds for there being a 1/32 IM Six within the next five years, as well as a 1/32 IM F-111E/F from Tanmodel.
 
Tony

I hadnt received a new canopy despite the email Airfix sent saying one would be sent once the problem was solved. So on hearing/reading that maybe the problem had been solved and new canopies avaialable I gave it a week or two for one to show up. Nothing did so I contacted Airfix with my original reference number for the fault on Sunday. Reply early Monday morning that a canopy would be sent out ASAP received this morning totally blemish free so I'm one happy customer. So if you're in need just email them.

I'll be very interested to see what that Barracuda stuff looks like. He does some of the best AM work around.

Wing in one piece...  It is far beyond my ability to understand current molding technology...

Here it is: http://www.hyperscale.com/2014/reviews/kits/hkmodelsmosquitopreviewjh_1.htm

This looks cool. It's about time someone did an IM Kilo and Dog Sabre.  Looks like Kittyhawk is really striving to produce great kits now, even though some don't want to believe it.
 
 
 
 
Matt 

I've had a couple of threads running on a couple of other forums showing this model, but I reckon seeing as its a biggie, it would be appropriate to show the finished article here. If anyone wants any info regarding building one of these, please feel free to ask and I'll do me best to answer any queries.
 

To build an accurate Hayabusa, the kit canopy is for a -III, and leave off the round bit in front of the engine( represents a -I oil cooler).

edit:
 i deteted my post, because it shows you how NOT to do it (upon further investigation i have forgotten the inner cover parts-these seem to have to be modified)
i will keep you posted on my progress

Cool, I'll be able to bolt it to the wall outside and use it as a carport.

Here's some more pix courtesy of Cybermodeler of the upcoming 1/32 KH OV-10 Bronco, looks pretty cool!
Enjoy.
Well done Glen! 
 
 
http://www.cybermodeler.com/news/kitty.shtml