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Birdcage Corsair the Hard Way!


LSP_Kevin

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What an odyssey!  So good to see it finally done Kevin. I'm sure you're relieved to finally have this project done, and it looks great. Would be hard pressed to tell the difference between this and the Tamiya kit if you put both on a table together

 

 

 

 

 

 

Matt  :frantic:

 

Thanks, Matt. The main difference between this and the Tamiya kit is 4 years of work!

 

Kev

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I must admit, I wouldn't be trying to use macro on this kind of photo. Getting enough depth of field is going to be a nightmare.

 

I prefer taking pictures from further away to get as much of the plane in focus as possible, then crop out what I don't want. Pixels are cheap, and you'll have too many of them in the original image

 

Richard

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Thanks, Wolf! Tamiya Corsair, dare I suggest? Actually, I've recently started working on the Aeropoxy resin Yak-3 kit, which is going further in the other direction! But my main focus on the bench will be the long-lost Fw 190S conversion, so look out for a restart on that shortly.

 

Kev

You are a glutton for punishment Kev, the Aeropoxy Yak-3 does turn out good but the journey is a bit fraught, to be fair the biggest problem that I had was air bubbles which stalled the build until I discovered Mr Surfacer.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

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Looks utterly fantastic Kev!   You'd never know it wasn't a Tamiya kit if one didn't know the whole story.

 

Im really in your exact same boat with re: to pictures. The new DSLR is so complex with so many options its become overkill, and my pics with the new DSLR are not quite up to par with those I took with my half way decent cell camera. 

 

Ive got DOF issues myself mainly and I also know about the F-Stop settings, but am slowly finding out, its mostly all about the lens. So far Ive shot with my macro zoom, my brothers 85mm, and lastly the 18-55mm lens I rented from the local camera shop. It seems like both a wide angle 18-55 AND a macro lens are needed for the best all around mix of shots. I think having a 10-24 macro or say the new 40/FP-S macro lens alone would get me the ultra close shots I want, but I would not be able to get the all around shots of larger models that I need, and would again, end up way far away from the model. 

 

Even at my "baby" settings (IE, I fully auto/I dont even remember all the exact settings I had it on) I still had DOF issues, and some minor trouble getting in super close like I wanted.
Im starting to believe that a high-res JPEG setting with a wide angle lens and a macro lens would be most preferable.

 

Ive only just scratched the surface of my D3400 for dummies book, and need to get more into that to figure out what I really need to be doing. 

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I wouldn't use a wide angle from choice, you'll get lots if distortion

 

 

I was considering the standard 18-55 lens wide angle in this case when talking VS a macro.  The 18-55mm lens caused 0 distortion (just have to adjust my F-stop to correct DOF issues) and allowed for fairly decent close ups (not macro close however) yet also allowed for much much larger subjects to be photographed like my B-25. 

 

The 18-55 lens seems like a very good compromise to me. It allowed for some quite wide angle shots, but still got in fairly close without distortion of any kind on either end. 

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Great! build.

 

'I'm not especially happy with them, as I still haven't mastered the macro abilities . . . and most of the ones I took were blurry, or focused on the wrong area.'

For what it is worth, my observation is that your F stop is too large and that your focal point is too far forward.  It appears that you are shooting with an open F stop which would narrow your Depth of Field making it shallow.

 

If you closed down your F stop to F/16, F/22 or F/32, which is ideal for gaining Depth of Field, especially F/32, you can place the model at an angle, put your focus point on the canopy, and still have the outliers-the prop, wing tips, and tail-within the focal plane and remain in focus.

 

Think of the F Stops as Depth of Field and not as size of Aperture opening.  The larger the F Stop, the larger the Depth of Field.  The smaller the F Stop, the smaller the Depth of Field.

 

Most cameras have a DoF button on them.  After you set up your shot push the DoF button and it will show you the depth of the focal plane.  It will show you what is and is not in focus.

 

https://nortonsafe.search.ask.com/web?q=DOF+button&chn=PIF001&doi=2017-10-28&geo=en_US&guid=630059d6-a563-49f0-8464-d8c061f199f3&o=APN11910&p2=%5EEQ%5Ech0aus%5E&prt=Default&ver=22.11.0.41&tpr=2&ts=1513783644803

Pick any one.

 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Think of the F Stops as Depth of Field and not as size of Aperture opening.  The larger the F Stop, the larger the Depth of Field.  The smaller the F Stop, the smaller the Depth of Field.

 

Love it, real old school photography. trading aperture for shutter speed. Fortunately we don't have to worry about film speed and grain size anymore

 

Brian, are you using a tripod or are you doing these shots hand held?

 

I still prefer to take pictures from further away and crop them to size. You don't get the depth of field problems or distortion due to being so close to the model

 

Richard

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