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About GunnarO

  • Birthday 03/30/1971

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  1. Hi Peter, Not sure if you've seen this, but good description of the seats. Seems the T6 Harvard/Texan used the same seat. http://warbirdinformationexchange.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=65446 If this is correct, the straight edge seat was used up to P-51D-5-NA And as a curiosity, Here is the Warren McArthur's patent for one of their bucket seats. https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/1c/69/4e/f7097215ef3be3/US2291247.pdf Cheers
  2. Hi Peter You've got this, which slightly differ from the information you have already. This is from the P-51 B/C Parts list. There were probably more than one version of the seat, the parts list have two. If you look at the P-51 D/K Parts list, you'll find this: Cheers
  3. https://www.desser.com/Aircraft-Tires-and-Tubes/27-10-PLY-AERO-CLASSIC-DIAMOND-AIRCRAFT-TIRE-DESSER-AA227.asp Here is the tyre for the Mustang if you want to buy a new one today. On the drawing it is a Goodyear 24 x 7.7 tyre. Which by the way is the same size as used on the Boeing 737. But if this is the right pattern is hard to say. The image looks mostly like the cross pattern. Cheers Gunnar
  4. This is the closest I could find Peter. The single dimension on drawing is 4.01 in. This is drawing 117-33101, Chassis assembly, Main Landing Gear. Cheers Gunnar
  5. I'm afraid the project is put on hold due to ongoing research on the full size Whirlwind. There are still some areas that needs attention, and the underside of the fuselage with the recess for the flap is one of them. That's currently where the model is too. I'll continue as soon as I figure out the structure and details in that area. In the meantime, I've started another 1/24 scale print of a rather obscure Soviet fighter prototype..... Stay tuned... Cheers
  6. I'd suggest you try printing with HIPS. It's Polystyrene so normal glue can be used and it is easy to sand and cut. Stronger than PLA but not so hard surface. I've got a Prusa i3 MK2S and can give you pointers for setup etc. If you use 0.4mm extruder, use 0.45mm walls. (I always use 0.05mm wider walls for the thinnest parts) Normal wall thickness should be 1.5 - 2mm for strong rigid walls. I print mostly 0.1mm layers at slow speed, makes the best details and the surface look good. My Whirlwind project is currently on hold due to project research, but I have started a new one that probably will be posted here in the near future. I started with PLA, but moved on to HIPS. I'll never go back. If you want to check it out: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=71157&hl=whirlwind There's a nice thread about 3D printing as well : http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=70571 Cheers
  7. Great job and an outstanding model Kev.
  8. Long time since posting, and in the meantime lots of problems with printing polystyrene. Long story short, Z axis adjustment lost after a firmware upgrade without being noticed.... I've finally managed to dial in all the HIPS and printer settings and can move on with the project. During all the tests, I've concluded that printing it like a normal kit is not the best way to go. I'm now trying to print it in bits and pieces and glue them together. (well, that's basically what a "normal" kit is also.... - Larger bits and pieces...) This way I can print the whole rear fuselage as one solid part without seams. Looks very promising. And print bed adhesion is not a problem anymore once I got the Z axis properly adjusted. This is current status for the new parts: Cheers
  9. just like me... Look forward to your next project already. And don't be surprised if a 1:24 scale 3D printed F-104 makes its way to LSP eventually. Cheers
  10. That's a good advice, Jim. I always want to put all the details I can get into the model. But, If I ever want to finish it, I have to remove and simplify a lot. I ask myself "what will be visible on the finished model" quite often, and have started to make the 3D model based on that. (This relates mostly to 3D modeling/3D printing) So, on the Whirlwind I'm making, I've left the elevators attached to the tailplane since it's not important to me if I can move them on the finished model. This leads to a simplified hinge based on what's visible, like this: Because, when I've put on the litho plates for covering the model, this is what's visible: So, no one can see if the bearings are missing... This is my 85%. I do deeply admire those that put all the details in and make all the control surfaces and landing gears movable, but I'm good with doing things this way and I have a lot better chance of finish it some day than loose myself in details... Cheers
  11. Moving along... First complete print with HIPS. After a LOT of trail and error, the first complete print is finished. It's not all good, I have some delamination of the layers. I know however how to fix it, so the top part of the tailplane is tuned in during the print. I think I have the settings ready now, will start a new one tomorrow to check my theories. The surface quality of the HIPS is remarkably good. Comparing to the first print I did with PLA, it's a no-brainer what to use... Adding to that, the HIPS is much easier to cut, file and sand and I can use my old Humbrol liquid glue Cheers
  12. Hey Gaz, They are basicly the same, except the litho plates have been used in the offset printing industry. The litho plates are 0,15mm and I got 10 A4 sheets for £12. Arts and crafts stores have some painted aluminium sheets with the same thickness, but they are £3-4 each. Pure Aluminium foil is much more expensive, a sheet of 0,15x150x150mm is £200. (at least the ones I found...) Cheers
  13. Thanks guys! I got the litho plates on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminium-Litho-Plates-for-Model-Building-pack-of-10-A4-size/391925485031?hash=item5b40944de7:g:9IMAAOSwRvdZaTPC The rivets were done one by one on freehand with a ruler, so a little dodgy... going to use a finer rivet tool and a template with denser rivet pattern on the model. Got the rivet tool from UMM-USA: http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_22&products_id=1322 Cheers
  14. Thanks, Rick! I'll try that on the next one. This one didn't work out either, but I got more of it... The deep V between the tailplane and the elevator is something I wanted to test. I think I'll leave the elevator attached, so I cut back the tailplane a little to make room for the part of the elevator that's inside the tailplane. I then will use litho plate as skin, and extend it over the V to lie flush with the elevator. hopefully it will look good when finished. Then I thought I could use the parts as a test bed for puting on litho plates. The really nice thing with the surface quality of the print is that I don't need to fill and sand anything, I just glue the litho plates on top of the print. Sorry for the glue mess, I said it was just a test... And then the tailplane skin over front part of the elevator. ok then, more fine tuning of the printer settings... Cheers
  15. Thanks, yes it works very well. Thanks Alex, I've read through the thread already. The bed on my printer can't be switched out. The heating plate is covered with a PEI film glued to the plate. It works quite good. The new printer model has a replaceable heat plate of metal, so I might upgrade at a later point. Yes, I used an 8mm brim but it still didn't work. I'm trying now with a glue stick, and it seem to work. I turned the print 90 degrees on the plate as well, don't know if it helps but tried it anyway. Cheers
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