TBC Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 I am looking for advice on how to deal with my problem without damaging the model or, at the very least, mitigating the damage. What you see is the right hand landing gear leg broken off nearly flush with the wheel well bay. While I do have the broken part, I don't believe reattaching it is going to result in a lasting repair that won't see the model at some point crashed over to one side. Paul Fisher did supply me with a replacement long ago. In fact, he sent me a complete set of landing gear. It looks to me like it will have to be drilled out. Do I use a dremel bit, a micro drill bit........? There are modellers here with far more experience than I. I would like advice on the best way to remove this chunk of resin. Thank you. chrish and BiggTim 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 If you used CA to glue it in, I would use CA debonder to weaken the joint and hopefully you'll be able to remove the broken part without damaging anything else. This will also make it easier to install the replacement. BiggTim, Iain, CRAZY IVAN5 and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBC Posted January 9 Author Share Posted January 9 24 minutes ago, BloorwestSiR said: If you used CA to glue it in, I would use CA debonder to weaken the joint and hopefully you'll be able to remove the broken part without damaging anything else. This will also make it easier to install the replacement. I did use CA. I will try de-bonder first. I don't know to what degree it will be able to work itself through the CA and down the side of the broken part, but I'll have to give it a try at least. Thank you. Iain, scvrobeson, chrish and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 (edited) The debonder I use softens the CA. I'll soak it and then if needed, use a micro brush to work the debonder into the joint a bit and help things come apart. Also, G-Factor made brass legs for the kit but I have no idea how hard it would be to find a set. Edited January 9 by BloorwestSiR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottsGT Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 If you’re good with a Dremel tool you could router out the majority of it and use a chisel tip Xacto blade to clean up the edges along with soaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 As others have said - try the CA Debonder first - may need a bit of a soak in the stuff - and some picking away with a cocktail stick/toothpick etc. as it softens. If you've not used before you might be surprised at the performance of it - usually works really well! If that fails - then go with a mechanical intervention. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonCornes Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 Personally I’d centre punch the two broken ends, drill a 1 or 2mm hole in both and join with a piece of brass rod or even a paper clip. Looking at my Twogar the weight of the model comes vertically through the gear leg so the join should be in compression. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBC Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 Thanks for the replies, everyone. I'll try the de-bonder first, and then if necessary, surgery! CRAZY IVAN5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Use a Dremel with a small ball-shaped diamond covered grinder. You can control very closely what you are removing as a dentist would do in a tooth! CRAZY IVAN5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonCornes Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 A quick question regarding Panther/Cougar undercarriage. For the main gear are the scissor links hollowed out or is there a continuous web through the casting? Same goes for the fore and aft strut at the top of the leg? The reason I ask is because there is a fine web between the sides of both scissor links and top of gear leg with Paul Fishers casting which may or may not need to be removed. Can anyone confirm either way? I don’t have a photo of the real leg to refer to. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 2 hours ago, SimonCornes said: …are the scissor links hollowed out or is there a continuous web through the casting? BloorwestSiR, coogrfan and Landrotten Highlander 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Upper trunnion: Landrotten Highlander, Out2gtcha, BloorwestSiR and 1 other 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonCornes Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Thank you - webs intact!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBC Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 (edited) Success! I used some Bob Smith Industries Un-Cure, drilled a few holes to (hopefully) get some de-bonder to the bottom, and then worked around the edges with a #11 chisel blade. After that I sort of sliced it up into little pieces until I got it all out. You can see the white paint at the bottom of the rectangular hole, which means I got to the correct depth as the wheel well had been painted prior to gluing in the gear leg. Important, obviously, so that the model sits level. It's 2-3mm too long, but a little piece of plastic stock will tighten it up. The de-bonder does remove paint. Edited January 22 by TBC thierry laurent, ScottsGT, LSP_Ray and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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