TBC

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The conversation about the difference between the Sabres that were painted black versus the Napier colour green (upgrades and improvements to the green engines as a result of ongoing development) was particularly eye-opening. Who would want to fly a Tempest with an engine (black ones) that Richard compared to flying a hand grenade with the pin pulled?

2112, of course!

The right hand side profile with accompanying text from Luftwaffe Colours Volume 4 Section 2 The Mediterranean 1942-1943.

This may help. Same kit build on 2 different forums. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235095302-132-dragon-messerschmitt-bf-109e-7-trop/ https://www.hyperscale.com/2021/galleries/bf109e7dragon32tu_1.htm

Success! I used some Bob Smith Industries Un-Cure, drilled a few holes to (hopefully) get some de-bonder to the bottom, and then worked around the edges with a #11 chisel blade. After that I sort of sliced it up into little pieces until I got it all out. You can see the white paint at the bottom of the rectangular hole, which means I got to the correct depth as the wheel well had been painted prior to gluing in the gear leg. Important, obviously, so that the model sits level. It's 2-3mm too long, but a little piece of plastic stock will tighten it up. The de-bonder does remove paint.

Very, very nice. There's any number of screenshots one can take of detail.

THAT is looking very, very nice. And that early Vought seat is amazing, too. But there's one thing that always bugs me every time I see an F-8 build. Why, oh why, did Academy (1/72), Hasegawa (1/48) and Trumpeter, invent a detail on the upper wing at the wing fold that simply didn't exist-the bulged area where the hinge is? The wing was flat where the wing fold hinge is-there was no bulged area. Where did they come up with that one?

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I'll try the de-bonder first, and then if necessary, surgery!

I did use CA. I will try de-bonder first. I don't know to what degree it will be able to work itself through the CA and down the side of the broken part, but I'll have to give it a try at least. Thank you.

I am looking for advice on how to deal with my problem without damaging the model or, at the very least, mitigating the damage. What you see is the right hand landing gear leg broken off nearly flush with the wheel well bay. While I do have the broken part, I don't believe reattaching it is going to result in a lasting repair that won't see the model at some point crashed over to one side. Paul Fisher did supply me with a replacement long ago. In fact, he sent me a complete set of landing gear. It looks to me like it will have to be drilled out. Do I use a dremel bit, a micro drill bit........? There are modellers here with far more experience than I. I would like advice on the best way to remove this chunk of resin. Thank you.

FWIW. From Modellers Datafile.

To Tell The Truth https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=greg+boyington+on+game+show#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:59015324,vid:oV3SAAtb3XY,st:0

Very, very nice, Tom. A lovely, late-war RCAF Griffon Spitfire.

Very nice, Tom. You've made this build/conversion appear to be a piece of cake.