Gazzas Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Fun to watch this. I have the same kit up to the "ready-for-woodgrain" stage, and have been putting it off. My plan is to try the HGW decals, but I'm not sure I can pull it off on those curves. If not, then I will be following your example, and painting it on. Tim Tim, Thank you. I'll look forward to seeing how your Albatros comes out. I like the idea of wood grain decals, though I've passed on buying a set because of the many awesome examples made by guys who've shared their knowledge here before I ever decided to build the Roden offering. I recently purchased two more colors of the Tamiya clear. I added red and blue to my stocks which will allow me to make brown. I'll do that when I get to the propeller. Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Scarborough Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 I'm still working my way through the forums trying to get to know my way around...and glad I found this! Great work, Gaz! I like your wood grain and think you did a super job with the fuselage bands. Keep at it! Cheers from NYC, Michael Bobs Buckles and Gazzas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dora9 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Nice looking Albatros! Keep up the good work! Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Some seriously good progress Gaz, those tail feathers look amazing. Regards. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Thank you, fellas. In recent reading about painting and markings during the period, I've learned that Allied pilots would " muddy up" their roundels to reduce their visibility from above. Whilst across the trenches, colorful identifiers whether personal, or driven by command directives were more the norm, at least for the Jagdstaffeln. This is great for us modellers, but when it came to supplying aircraft with glossy wood, and the above mentioned identifiers, one wonders why they even bothered to dope the wings with camouflage at all. Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) Hi Everyone, For weeks I've despaired making it this far. The kit wings have suffered terrible paint lift every time I tried masking. In the end, I gave up and resorted to hand-painting with Tamiya enamels. Then I touched up a little with the airbrush. I'll do more once the decals have set and I've sealed them with Future. The wind is blowing a gale today, so I'll seal them later. Here are the photos: The crosses are WNW decals donated from my Green Tail Trilogy(you get three sets of Maltese crosses, and two sets of late war crosses). The rest of the decals are Roden. For some reason the Roden upper wing crosses are 5mm shorter than the WNW upper wing crosses. You can see the back side of my first laminated prop attempt. The serial numbers aren't for this A/C. I don't know the serial for this bird as I've never seen an actual photo of it. So, I decided to use them anyway as I like the way they put the serials on the tails back then. Finally the prop. Roden decals and faint lamination. The lamination is so faint because I mixed Tamiya clears red, yellow, and blue to make brown. The blue is very powerful, so you don't need much of it to turn the mix green. Four yellow, Four red, and One Blue. BTW... I like my props to spin. It irritates me when they make kits with fixed props. So, I stretched some sprue to about the same diameter of the king nut on the center of the prop. Drilled the prop and glued my homemade drive shaft in place. It spins freely.... Thanks for looking! Gaz Edited March 7, 2018 by Gazzas Out2gtcha, MikeMaben, Gigant and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Hi Everyone, For weeks I've despaired making it this far. The kit wings have suffered terrible paint lift ............. The wind is blowing a gale today, Gaz Richard Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 What a great scheme. Great show. Love what you've done. Sincerely, Mark Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Gaz that looks sweet! Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattlow Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Hi Gaz This has come on very impressively since I saw it ages ago... You're certainly not lacking in skills, the woodgrain has come out brilliantly. Something you need to keep in mind is that in choosing a Roden kit, you're doing a considerably harder build than anyone doing a WNW. The outcomes you're getting with this 'tricky' kit suggest you'll get an even better result when you do a WNW. Matt Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 This is really looking wonderful. Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 (edited) Nice jab, I too like the spinning propeller. As for painting, I prefer hand-brush painting WW I aircraft, especially since as we know, except for the German lozenge pattern, they simply were actually hand-punted camo schemes with "hard borders", no "over-spray" back then. And, with any degree of skill, you need little or no masking either. Edited March 8, 2018 by Gigant Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Nice jab, I too like the spinning propeller. As for painting, I prefer hand-brush painting WW I aircraft, especially since as we know, except for the German lozenge pattern, they simply were actually hand-punted camo schemes with "hard borders", no "over-spray" back then. And, with any degree of skill, you need little or no masking either. You can also use the direction of the brushstrokes to your advantage. There are a lot more textures involved in wood and canvas aeroplanes Richard Gigant and Gazzas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 You can also use the direction of the brushstrokes to your advantage. There are a lot more textures involved in wood and canvas aeroplanes Richard It never ceases to amaze me to see the pains that those who are obsessed with airbrushing go through to create things like hard borders on WW I and British WW II camo paint schemes. Like Gaz did, to avoid the typical acrylic paint-lifting problem, I try to find a good flat enamel for the base color also. But what I do after that is hand-brush on an acrylic. That way if I need to mask something, like the straight-edged Luftwaffe splinter camo schemes, the base-coat enamel won't lift up with the tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 It never ceases to amaze me to see the pains that those who are obsessed with airbrushing go through to create things like hard borders on WW I and British WW II camo paint schemes. If you want to get really hard core, try brush painting roundels. They would have been, and they would also flake off following the brush strokes. Plus they would fade unevenly. I've tried playing with this from time to time I would really like to become confident at hand lettering with a brush, then I could paint numbers in an authentic style Richard Gigant 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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