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Roden's Albatros D.III: Weathering, U/C, and some Rigging


Gazzas

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HI everyone!

I took some time to play with my phone camera to get some better pictures this week.  Then, today I spent some time on that Mercedes engine.

 

First I gave it three acrylic Filters:  Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber, and black

Then I gave everything an oil wash in a mixture of Black and Burnt Umber.  I tried to add some streaking effects.

Finally I smashed pigments into the exhaust pipe to hopefully add something to it's looks.

 

Here are the pictures:

b_133113.jpg

 

b_133054.jpg

 

b_133127.jpg

 

b_133038.jpg

Does anyone have any more recommendations for the engine?  Should I dry brush anything?  Maybe the tapes?

 

Started on the pilot, too.

After priming, I sprayed the pilot with a very dark gray.  Then I used various methods to remove the dark gray from the raised areas.

 

Then came a spray with various coats of Burnt Sienna until I had a rich brown look.

Then I wanted to make the flying helmet, boots, and gloves a little different.

To them I added a black filter followed by a red filter.

 

The goal is to have various shades of rich brown leather that a pilot might like...  Or that I might make look plausible.

Just a couple photos:

b_133229.jpg

 

133209.jpg

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Gaz

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Engine looks very well used and abused!

Looking forward to your magic on the figure!

Karim

Thanks Karim.  I might fall on my face here when it comes to the pilot.  My last figures looked very "Punch and Judy-esque". 

 

I did these guys last year.

b_161713.jpg

I'll use oils this time as the acrylics I used left some unwanted textures and a large wart on the commander's face.

 

Heh...they look even worse in macro-vision than IRL.

 

Gaz

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b_133127.jpg

 

 

Does anyone have any more recommendations for the engine?

 

Gaz

 

Yes, leave it alone - that's really good

 

No flash this time, right?

 

Richard

 

MORE: Magneto caps should be black or brown, they are made of Bakelite to insulate the terminals

Edited by RLWP
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Yes, leave it alone - that's really good

 

No flash this time, right?

 

Richard

 

MORE: Magneto caps should be black or brown, they are made of Bakelite to insulate the terminals

Richard,

   Thank you!  Yes, no flash and I learned how to use the focus feature of the camera.  Thanks about the magneto caps.  Can't believe I missed that!

 

Gaz

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Guest Peterpools

Hi Gaz

Right with Richard .. the Mercedes looks really good as is. too much tinkering and and presto - it's back to square one.

Nice start on the pilot leather flying suit. For me, love figures but a complete mystery.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

Edited by Peterpools
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Thank you everyone for the likes and kind comments!

 

Even with this engine there were a lot of firsts I'd never considered before, and I rather enjoyed it. 

 

Who knows...  Perhaps there is a model with open engine bay and other compartments in my future.

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HI everyone!

I took some time to play with my phone camera to get some better pictures this week.  Then, today I spent some time on that Mercedes engine.

 

...snipped...

 

Started on the pilot, too.

After priming, I sprayed the pilot with a very dark gray.  Then I used various methods to remove the dark gray from the raised areas.

 

Then came a spray with various coats of Burnt Sienna until I had a rich brown look.

Then I wanted to make the flying helmet, boots, and gloves a little different.

To them I added a black filter followed by a red filter.

 

The goal is to have various shades of rich brown leather that a pilot might like...  Or that I might make look plausible.

Just a couple photos:

b_133229.jpg

 

133209.jpg

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Gaz

 

Thanks Karim.  I might fall on my face here when it comes to the pilot.  My last figures looked very "Punch and Judy-esque". 

 

I did these guys last year.

b_161713.jpg

I'll use oils this time as the acrylics I used left some unwanted textures and a large wart on the commander's face.

 

Heh...they look even worse in macro-vision than IRL.

 

Gaz

 

OK, Gaz, Peter, from what I was taught by a teacher who was retained by a miniature figures/games shop:

  1. He primed the model figure in black-the teacher used flat black from a rattle-can as a base-coat.
  2. He finished the figure using water-based paints specific for figures, like Citidel, all hand-bristle-brushed with fine artist brushes.
  3. The eyes are painted before the rest of the face.

Here are examples:

 

25527408898_a700b90591.jpg

                                        Notice here, the overall blue finish is not applied heavily over the gray which gives a soiled look.

 

25527403718_947e8a8ddc.jpg

Notice here the black undercoat leaves shaded lines between the fingers, under the shield, etc. FYI, the eyes are dotted after the whites are painted, with a single thin vertical line that is painted over with the face color.

 

The main thing to avoid is laying the paint on too heavy so as not to eliminate the darker under-coating.

Edited by Gigant
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Tom,

   Thank you for the lesson!  I'll try to rely on the finer points.  My greatest deficits are eyesight and steadiness of hand.  3X reading glasses are my favorite for detail work. 

 

My prescription glasses are more suited to 2-3 feet plus away.

 

Gaz

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Tom,

   Thank you for the lesson!  I'll try to rely on the finer points.  My greatest deficits are eyesight and steadiness of hand.  3X reading glasses are my favorite for detail work. 

 

My prescription glasses are more suited to 2-3 feet plus away.

 

Gaz

 

For tiny things, I use both a magnifying holder (large lighted lens with alligator clamps) as well as magnifying head-band goggles with a light that has a set of various power lenses.

 

For steadiness of hand, in addition to simple linear hand-movement exercises, I take a supplement Brewers' Yeast powder which has corrected my otherwise jittery hands from both toxic chemical and orthopedic injury nerve damage.

 

Earlier this year I had cataract surgery that saved me from going blind, so I opted for the far-sighted lenses and all I need is cheap reading glasses for normal reading and a large magnifying glass for finer print.

 

In fact, to use a PC,  because of my increased light sensitivity with the prosthetic lenses, I  am obliged to wear wire-frame tinted, large-lens reading glasses similar to Dr. Strangelove's. :coolio:

Edited by Gigant
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Hi everyone,

   Struggling with the face!

      I've done the face about four times now.  Eventually I got so fed up that I stripped the entire thing.  I've tried a few different tutorials, and finally think I have one that suits me.  For a long weekend, I feel like I've accomplished jack.

 

But, I think I'm close.

174242.jpg

b_174307.jpg

174221.jpg

 

It's ok that the face looks dirty.  After a long patrol with a greasy, oily, smoking engine...  Maybe some cordite. 

 

But I'm not into practice for practice sake.  So, I'll roll with it.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Gaz

Edited by Gazzas
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Gaz

Happy new year!

Face looks okay i painted a bust once and redid the face a couple of times. I ended up using a tutorial i found online which really helped out. How to paint eyes because that's what i started with and the flesh was painted with oils and oil glazes. Will try to dig up a photo and post it here if you want. I don't want to detract from the lovely work you are doing!

Hope you had a lovely new year. Spent it home with sinusitis working on my wnw camel!

Best wishes

Karim

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Guest Peterpools

Gaz

The face is always the hardest part and from my feeble attempts, it starts with the eyes. Of course, I'm the last to offer advice on figures these days.

Can't go wrong following Karim's advice - a master for sure

Peter

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