amurray Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 I keep shooting myself in the foot. Painting the Hunter yesterday, I dropped it. It fortunately fell on carpet so the damage was one broken off horizontal stabilizer and the instrument panel cowling, the instrument panel, bang seat, bang seat rails and rear cockpit popped off. I've started fixing them. The one thing I won't be able to fix is the weight in the nose. It is loose but so long as it does not migrate rearwards I'm okay. A great kit suffers another blunder by a bad kit builder. geedubelyer, Derek B, Biggles87 and 4 others 1 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 Sorry to hear that...... although it can and does happen. I know it's happened to me on several occasions for sure. At least one of those models I dropped/broke ended up getting the Godzilla treatment (AKA getting retired under my boot) Derek B, amurray and chrish 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amurray Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 (edited) Base Dark Green is done as seen in the photo. I added the Dark Sea Gray camo. A word of caution about Swiss Hunters and J-4103 in particular. Many of the Swiss Hunters were painted, re-painted and painted yet again. [Likely the Brits did the same with their own Hunters.] Many aircraft vary, though slightly, from the original paint jobs when delivered by Hawker. J-4103 reference photos show numerous subtle changes over time. It makes sense - it was a test bed aircraft. With J-4103 the Day-Glo Orange especially varied on the nose and on the drop tanks. I masked the orange accents. WOW, was that a task! In viewing the reference materials I just assumed the orange followed panel lines on the wings, spine, nose and tail. NOPE! Fortunately, I found the scale orange lines on the wings and tail fin are about 6mm. I placed 6mm Tamiya Masking tape on the requisite areas, then laid down masking tape snug against the 6mm tape I then removed the 6mm tape. The nose is masked with Tamiya Masking Tape for Curves. The latter does conform very well to curves but the adhesive is lacking If you use it, be sure it is secure! In the photo below I've not finished masking but it gives one an idea of the complexity of the masking. Another note: See that I have placed the model with the nose over the edge of the foam. That is because this is one of the design features I HATE in models - the nose gear has to be installed very early in the build. So far I've not broken it. It is inevitable, but . . maybe. Edited February 9 by amurray sp scvrobeson, denders, LSP_Kevin and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 7 hours ago, amurray said: Base Dark Green is done as seen in the photo. I added the Dark Sea Gray camo. A word of caution about Swiss Hunters and J-4103 in particular. Many of the Swiss Hunters were painted, re-painted and painted yet again. [Likely the Brits did the same with their own Hunters.] Many aircraft vary, though slightly, from the original paint jobs when delivered by Hawker. J-4103 reference photos show numerous subtle changes over time. It makes sense - it was a test bed aircraft. With J-4103 the Day-Glo Orange especially varied on the nose and on the drop tanks. I masked the orange accents. WOW, was that a task! In viewing the reference materials I just assumed the orange followed panel lines on the wings, spine, nose and tail. NOPE! Fortunately, I found the scale orange lines on the wings and tail fin are about 6mm. I placed 6mm Tamiya Masking tape on the requisite areas, then laid down masking tape snug against the 6mm tape I then removed the 6mm tape. The nose is masked with Tamiya Masking Tape for Curves. The latter does conform very well to curves but the adhesive is lacking If you use it, be sure it is secure! In the photo below I've not finished masking but it gives one an idea of the complexity of the masking. Another note: See that I have placed the model with the nose over the edge of the foam. That is because this is one of the design features I HATE in models - the nose gear has to be installed very early in the build. So far I've not broken it. It is inevitable, but . . maybe. Liking the camouflage Art! (I particularly like the initial dark green coverage, as it makes your Hunter look somewhat like a Swedish one, which is what I shall be making one day). I understand the 'installed nose leg' issue that you have and I also dislike this form of construction, so what I do is 'modify' the kit parts so that I can install it when I want, and not when the instructions tell me too! (I have recently - a very flexible term for me - done this with my current 1/32 Trumpeter EE Lightning build). Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amurray Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 14 hours ago, Derek B said: Liking the camouflage Art! (I particularly like the initial dark green coverage, as it makes your Hunter look somewhat like a Swedish one, which is what I shall be making one day). I understand the 'installed nose leg' issue that you have and I also dislike this form of construction, so what I do is 'modify' the kit parts so that I can install it when I want, and not when the instructions tell me too! (I have recently - a very flexible term for me - done this with my current 1/32 Trumpeter EE Lightning build). Derek Derek, I appreciate the comments about modifying the sequence but understand that with this kit there is no way to avoid an early installation of the front gear. I hold my breath every time I pick up the model and set it down. I can't tell you how many times i forgot and set it down in a "breaking" position but luckily avoided a break. Your comments and suggestions are always appreciated. Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amurray Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 (edited) Revell Enamels - Spray wonderfully. But . . . BUT (here it comes) for the first time in almost 20 years when I removed the Tamiya masking tape the paint lifted. I'm stunned! A great kit that continues to suffer from human interference! Edited February 17 by amurray Derek B, Fanes, geedubelyer and 2 others 1 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amurray Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 In an over abundance of caution I've added more masking tape prior to the white primer for the Safety Orange. I have nicknamed this model, "The Mummy." The missing horizontal stabilizer dates from the drop while painting With all the handling necessary I thought I'd just leave it off until ready. Fanes, Landrotten Highlander, geedubelyer and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeA Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 Don't envy you with that masking! That dayglo has a nasty penchant for going everywhere..... FWIW, when I built my Papyrus Hunter from the Revell kit earlier this century, I did manage to install the nose gear towards the end of the build - from memory it involved a slight trimming of the main gear leg on one side and a slight enlargement of the hole in the nosewheel bay where it slots into. The resulting enlarged and not so positive fit on that side was subsequently resolved with epoxy followed by a layer of white glue to smooth the joint off. Despite superdetailing the nosewheel bay, I don't think it's been looked at in the intervening years - the topsides are too pretty. Cheers Mike amurray and Derek B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spyrosjzmichos Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 Masking is fun!... Not! Looks pretty good so far! amurray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amurray Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 The white primer has been applied to The Mummy preparatory to the Safety Orange. Landrotten Highlander, Fanes and LSP_Kevin 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amurray Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 NOW WE ARE GOING TO DO SOMETHING I'VE NOT SEEN BEFORE ON LSP: YOU WILL DECIDE THE FINAL FINISH OF MY MODEL!!! The Safety Orange on any aircraft (Swiss, U.S., Congolese, etc.) deteriorated at an accelerated rate. It tended towards faded yellow on upper surfaces but the shaded underwing stores stayed orange.There are photos of this aircraft in both Pristine and Weathered conditions (see below). You get to vote on which I try to replicate. One vote per modeler EXCEPT the votes of Swiss Nationals count double (i.e 2x). If you are Swiss you must identify as such. The email handle "Bubba 'Big Hoss' Jones from Gatlinburg" will not qualify as Swiss. Votes must be in via reply to this post on LSP by Friday midnight. In the event of a tie I decide. If no one votes, I decide. If my wife doesn't like any of the versions, she decides. You vote either as follows Pristine Weathered I appreciate your input! Pristine: Weathered: themongoose, Kagemusha, Fanes and 1 other 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeA Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 Weathered - way more fun....... amurray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrotten Highlander Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 (edited) weathered (non Swiss citizen ) Edited February 21 by Landrotten Highlander amurray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 I agree with @MikeA. Weathered would be more fun but, the top image looks better. I vote for pristine but I'll be happy either way. amurray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwissFighters Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 7 hours ago, amurray said: NOW WE ARE GOING TO DO SOMETHING I'VE NOT SEEN BEFORE ON LSP: YOU WILL DECIDE THE FINAL FINISH OF MY MODEL!!! The Safety Orange on any aircraft (Swiss, U.S., Congolese, etc.) deteriorated at an accelerated rate. It tended towards faded yellow on upper surfaces but the shaded underwing stores stayed orange.There are photos of this aircraft in both Pristine and Weathered conditions (see below). You get to vote on which I try to replicate. One vote per modeler EXCEPT the votes of Swiss Nationals count double (i.e 2x). If you are Swiss you must identify as such. The email handle "Bubba 'Big Hoss' Jones from Gatlinburg" will not qualify as Swiss. Votes must be in via reply to this post on LSP by Friday midnight. In the event of a tie I decide. If no one votes, I decide. If my wife doesn't like any of the versions, she decides. You vote either as follows Pristine Weathered I appreciate your input! Pristine: Weathered: Definitely weathered! Not sure how to prove Swissness...I own a Raclette-Öfeli? Landrotten Highlander, amurray, Out2gtcha and 2 others 1 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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