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Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!


chuck540z3

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'MDC Makes a Rivet ruler for their rivet setups '

I wasn't aware there were so many metal guides available.  I have the 1/32 maker.  I don't recall there being 3 guides (as per website).  I'll have to do a look-see.

 

Thank you.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Thanks a lot guys!  This is a LOT of work, but in the end it will be worth it.  I did the same thing on my last 3 builds and I am very happy with the final results after paint.

 

 



Hi, Chuck.  Thank you very much for the nice words.  I really appreciate hearing that.  It is also very gratifying to see my books on your bench as you build these masterpieces and know that my books are helpful.

 

Keep up the great work!

 

Jake

 

My pleasure Jake and thanks to your Second Edition, I can make sense of all the panels and rivet detail on the top fuselage, which I can't find anywhere but in your latest Modern Eagle Guide.

 

 



'rivet rulers'

Got a link?

 

Nice clean work.  A real effort.  Great show, Chuck.

 

Thank you.

Sincerely,

Mark

 

Hi Mark,

 

What you should look for is the "Hasegawa HSG- TL12 Rivet Gauge", which you can often find on ebay or Japanese hobby shops like HLJ.  It comes in a set of 4 rulers with 1 mm, 1.5 mm, 2 mm and 2.5 mm spaced V-Grooves.  Here's an example:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hasegawa-1-Rivet-Gauge-Rivet-Etching-Tl12-/321992526538

 

I found some time to get started on the right side of the top fuselage, so let's step back and see what it looked like before....

 

 

Rivets7.jpg

 

 

4-5  hours later....

 

 

Rivets25.jpg

 

 

Some close-ups.  Remember, I have only added a dark wash to the areas I have modified with new rivet/fastener detail, extra rivet detail and new panel lines.

 

 

Rivets22.jpg

 

 

I have started to move to the back, where there is much less panel line detail, but I have not touched the very rear of the fuselage around the engines yet, because that will be a much bigger undertaking since a lot of it is wrong on the kit parts.  Maybe next time......

 

 

Rivets24.jpg

 

 

OK, that really is it for awhile boys, for maybe several weeks.

 

Happy modeling,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3
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Beautiful job. I can really appreciate your hard work and know how painstaking this is because I've done it for my 1/18th scale Tomcat but, it is soooo worth it in the end.

 

Like I said before, good luck with your surgery and I for one will be eagerly awaiting your return to the bench.

 

Wishing you and yours a Merry Christmas and a very Happy New Year.

 

Steve

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Chuck, the rivet detail looks awesome, only wish I could have achieved that result on my F-4. Also, thanks for the tip on which rivet tool to invest in, I will buy that right now.

 

Good luch with the surgery, I am sure you'll be back with a bang in the New Year.

 

Cheers,

Marcel

Edited by Marcel111
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Chuck, your work is absolutely stunning, and thank you for sharing your techniques.  I would like to ask you a question regarding the use of Tamiya vinyl tape for framing around your windscreen and canopy, does the vinyl tape have a strong enough adhesive that will allow it to stay permanently attached to the clear styrene?, or did you have to apply additional adhesive to the tape to permanently bond to the clear styrene.  

 

Thanks,

 

Kirk 

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Thank you Gents!

 

Chuck, your work is absolutely stunning, and thank you for sharing your techniques.  I would like to ask you a question regarding the use of Tamiya vinyl tape for framing around your windscreen and canopy, does the vinyl tape have a strong enough adhesive that will allow it to stay permanently attached to the clear styrene?, or did you have to apply additional adhesive to the tape to permanently bond to the clear styrene.  

 

Thanks,

 

Kirk 

 

 

Hi Kirk,

 

Good question, because this is one I wondered about myself before I tried it.  The adhesive on the tape is strong enough to stick all on it's own, as long as the surface is clean, smooth and dry.  I've had it on my windscreen for months now and it hasn't budged.  Further, when the tape is painted, like it is on my canopy, I left a very slight gap where it contrasts with the clear plastic to allow my spirit based enamel paint to coat the edges and maybe wick under the tape slightly, forming a hard edge that won't move later.  One recommendation is to slightly rough up the tape with fine grit sandpaper (~1500 grit), because the surface is very shiny and paint adhesion might be a problem.  For the same reason, I wouldn't use masking or any other tape with a strong adhesive on top of painted vinyl tape, because there is a strong chance that the paint will lift when removing it. 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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