Jeff Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 HOLY! As easy as that looks to do, some engineering and algebra involved......wish I had paid more attention is school.... excellent job Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Great work Eric. Most professional. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 Before the project proceeded further I needed to get the metal cowlings sorted out. Whilst I was sort of happy with my previous engine turning technique, I felt that it was very labour intensive and could be done a bit better. Studying various `full size' techniques online, I decided to try and find a new way to accomplish the engine turning on this model. I tried out a few different tools mounted in the drill press but settled on a felt bob that Dremel makes. I also tried out a few different cutting pastes, such as valve grinding paste,Autosol Metal polishing paste and Tamiya polishing compound. All of these were either too harsh or not harsh enough. In the end I used a light coat of polishing compound that is also made by Dremel. I also abandoned using my compound table in conjunction with the drill press as I wanted to try and achieve a more hand applied finish as per the real thing. Instead of winding the compound table 1-2mm per circle and repeating it in the x-y axis, I lined up each circle and each line of circles by eye. Firstly. I sent the Mrs on an errand to get me a large tin of Milo. I removed the `membrane' very carefully to allow the maximum amount of useable material. I then covered each panel in Tamiya tape before cutting along each panel line with a No.11 blade to make a template. I lightly traced the outline of each template onto the metal with a pencil and then cut it out oversize before applying the engine turned finish. Lining each element up by eye as discussed earlier. The panel has a very 3D holographic type effect and moves around as you shift it. It was then a simple matter pf re-applying the template and cutting it out. By considering where each panel was going to sit against the model, I was able to cut each one out so that instead of a panel line, I have made each panel overlap as per the real aircraft. I would consider this exercise to be a great success! tucohoward, TorbenD, HerculesPA_2 and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 (edited) I then faced the challenge of cutting out the grilles and inlets into each panel. I pressed against each hole in the resin with my finger to reveal the location of each one. You can just see the impression of the hole on the right hand side of the panel. I then used a beading tool to break through the panel into each hole. Due to the metal being quite flexible it was a simple matter to bend it into the hole and open it up. Still some more panels to do around the nose but I am pretty happy where this project is heading. I did a quick video of the process for my Facebook page here: (be sure to 'like' it!) https://www.facebook.com/manscale/ Edited March 17, 2017 by ericg Joel_W, Hubert Boillot, Starfighter and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simmo.b Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Wow!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dora9 Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Wow indeed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 WOW X3!!.....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorbenD Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 WOW X4!!! Cracking stuff Torben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Unreal ... it rocks my world that you (a) did that and ( did it with Milo foil. Respect. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 Thanks very much guys. As this project inches ever closer to the finish line I have started to closely examine as many period photos that I can get my hands on to find the small details that will give this build a more realistic finish. Due to significantly thinning the wheel spats, I had to replace some of the raised detail on them, added with plastic small disks of plastic card, Also visible in the photo is the aerodynamic fairing in white metal that covered the wheel nut. Whilst building this kit, it has become pretty apparent that the designers of the aircraft tried as hard as they could to make it as slippery as possible. I wanted to capture the look of the mechanical workings of the undercarriage. There was no provision made in the kit for these parts, so it was out with the plastic card to scratchbuild the brackets that the undercarriage strut attached to. I feel that this small detail in particular has made a big difference. Jeff, tucohoward, Shawn M and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 Love it Eric, great work! Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 Fantastic work, Eric. This is going to be stunning when it's finished. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericg Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 Fantastic work, Eric. This is going to be stunning when it's finished. Kev I hope so mate! see if it ends up travelling down south soon eh? Some more detail work. The kit anemometer needed a slight modification. The mast that mounts on the fuselage was also streamlined, so I fabricated one from plastic card and brass rod. Small but important detail. Whilst dry fitting the kit parts together to asses the sit and look of the model, I was noticing that there was something not quite right with the propeller. It just looked a bit odd and upon further investigation, one of the blades was 1mm shorter than the other. Not a huge amount but it was drawing my attention enough that it needed to be be fixed. I cut the sort blade and shimmed it with 1mm thick plastic card and blended the blade to the correct shape. It should be noted that the blades are far too thick (as with most of the kit) and this part has been thinned quite a bit in this pic. Joel_W, HerculesPA_2, Hubert Boillot and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Barry Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Very very nice on this latest work. I love the resourcefulness. So glad they did not do this machining on the Hawker Fury. I'd be in over my head! (BTW nice going with the Demon on the cover of the Modelart Australia magazine). Super details! ericg 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 The Milo, tinfoil............................. BRILLIANT ! I never would have thought of that, and now I will save the tin foil covers of the stuff we get.... ..................silly question time............. what is 'Milo'? Like Nestle's Quick? .............................................................................. maybe I need to get out more?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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