Nick32 Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Hi, i'm looking at starting another Tamiya 1/32 build very soon, i have the A6M2 and the Spitfire MKix to chose between. Just gathering aftermarket, and i am considering seatbelts. HGW ones look good, but are not cheap. Eduard ones are a bit cheaper but are they good enough? Or i could of course use the kit ones. The Spitfire ones i might get away with, but i'm not so sure about the paper Zero ones. Just trying to keep the budget low (the less i spend on aftermarket the more i have to spend on new kits, and i'm eyeing up a Tamiya Corsair..) Thanks (and sorry for rambling.) Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggernut Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I used paper masking tape with the Tamiya buckles for my zekes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I'm going to try Radu's superb Sutton Harnesses on my Spitfire builds... If you look down the list he does an IJN set too Iain Bill Cross 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick32 Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 Thanks Iain - More options!! They do look quite good though... Juggernut, do you have any pics of your paper belts? Sounds interesting! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Cross Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 (edited) Radu hands down over everything else. Edited May 1, 2014 by Bill Cross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lawman56 Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I can say this much, I used the HGW belts for my Albatros, and although the instructions showed them assembled wrong, (easy to figure out though), the belts were fantastic! Easy to trim with a sharp blade, and once rolled between the fingers, they become very pliable. Sorry I can't help you more than that, but I just purchased a set of Eduard belts myself, and haven't used them yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-M Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Hi, I used RB's for my Mk XVIe Spit and found them to be just ok, and nothing special. For my A6M2 I used lead foil and the kit buckles. Very easy to make and the lead foil allows you to manipulate them. HTH Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgar Brooks Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Just a heads-up; the holed parts of the Sutton harness were stiffened by strips of steel sewn inside the fabric, so those areas should never be curved in any way. It's probably why it was so common to see harnesses draped over the cockpit sills, rather than left on the seat; sit on the ends, and it would be a nightmare trying to pull them free. Edgar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Nick, Radu now does 1/32 IJN seatbelts as well. Have a look at his site. Regards, Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 The HGW ones are in real fabric and some have a very nice printing on it. The RB ones are easier to build, i think, and are the best to be shaped the way you want, with only the help of a few drop of water. I dont really like eduard or aires belts as i find the PE too much tricky to build (too stiff). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 The RB ones are easier? Wow, the HGW ones must me downright impossible then! I've used several of Radu's seatbelt sets, and always struggle with them. I love the look, but the fiddle-factor is way beyond my clumsy inabilities. Kev Bill Cross 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) The RB ones are easier? Wow, the HGW ones must me downright impossible then! I've used several of Radu's seatbelt sets, and always struggle with them. I love the look, but the fiddle-factor is way beyond my clumsy inabilities. Kev I think it is more difficult to "thread" the belts in the buckles with the HGW. Maybe the buckles are thighter or the belts width wider, i dont know. The instruction are also more difficult to understand, i think, whereas with the RB they are very explicit. With a pair of twizzers and some formula 560 glue, i can built a set of RB belts in about 1h / 1h30. For the HGW, i think it's at least 2h if everything went smooth. But i have to admit that building belt sets is not the part of modelling that i prefer ! (i find it deeply boring, to say the least...) Edited May 3, 2014 by Zero77 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 HGW for me - more expensive, maybe more 'interpretation' of the instructions but for me they exceeded what I thought possible.. ..i liked how they turned out.. each to their own though - just sayin.. Peter Bill Cross 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Cross Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Nice work, Peter. The proof of any pudding is in the tasting.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 I'll stick with lead foil or paper in the future, perhaps the occasional P.E. set, but never again will I purchase the type I attempted to use (with absolutely no success whatsoever), on my K-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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