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spreckair

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About spreckair

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    Bowie, MD -- USA

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  1. I thought the surface detail on many of the early Revell kits was really nice. The Spitfire and BF-109 come to mind on nice rivet and fastener detail. The P-40 even has overlapping fuselage panels. But then things went south after the very first kits.
  2. I will certainly add this one to my inventory! And hopefully more eastern European front aircraft.
  3. I too am in the "rather see something new" crowd, like a Mitsubishi G3M or G4M.
  4. I wonder--Did anyone bother to just ask the person at the Tamiya booth what the scale was--such a simple and obvious thing to do? Apparently not, but it would have been interesting to hear the reply.
  5. Doyusha's new tool A6M2 is news to me; nothing about in on the web in general. Does anyone have more info? It would be nice to have a decent less expensive alternative to the Tamiya kit.
  6. I am building the Trumpeter P-40B in RAF North Africa livery and need some help. I am trying to confirm if the RAF used the floor mounted reflector gunsight as included in the kit, or was a different gunsight used. After doing some searches on the web, I see that others have also asked but I cannot find a clear answer. Any info is greatly appreciated.
  7. Now we just need Revell Germany to announce their Lancaster to rain on HK and WNW's parade and make many of the rest of us happy.
  8. I prime first with a strong primer that contrasts with the color of the plastic. I then sand down the surface until the raise lines are almost gone, but not quite; the remaining primer highlights the lines so that it is easy to see. Since the raised line is almost gone, I then use Dymo tape as a straight edge and scribe either over the old line or just next to it. When I am all done with the part, I sand smooth and re-prime to check for issues. If the primer is strong enough, i.e. it reacts with the plastic, you can sometimes sand off the raised line and still see a line where it was. This makes it even easier to scribe.
  9. I am completely with you on this. I understand the business argument that some make to explain why not to produce these, but then we have the Fieseler FI-156 and Arado Ar 196 which seems to go against the business argument. I also think the Russian aircraft should be better represented.
  10. For me it was the Revell Supermarine Spitfire Mk I. I was 10 when it came out, and just saw the "Battle of Britain" at the movies (25 cents admission at Itazuke AFB in Japan). I bought each 1/32nd scale kit as they came out, and I remember the long wait wondering what was coming out next. Of course, the Hasegawa Spitfire knocked my socks off. So it has been 1/32nd scale for me for about 48 years now.
  11. Everything from the front of the windscreen to the headrest are way too narrow. It really needs a new windscreen, canopy, and rear headrest. The panel lines are way too large and should be filled and rescribed; also, the more the kit's surfaces are sanded, the narrower the lines become--since the plastic is thick, it can be sanded a bit. The wings appear to be too thick; this is the one area that is hardest to address. Again, since the plastic is thick, the wing surfaces can be sanded down a lot to reduce the thickness. The nose gun channels are not parallel and this should also be corrected. Again, this kit is like a mix of the early Revell and Matchbox kits; it is a good start, but needs a lot of work to get a really good finish. I am working on six of these at one time and will someday post pictures of the changes that I made. Why am I torturing myself--I just like the challenge of taking cheap kits and making them really nice.
  12. For CA glue, take a ball of modeling clay, make a flattened ball about the size of a ping pong, then make an indentation with the back end of a paint brush handle or other tool handle. This will make a place to squeze a bit of CA glue, and if deeper than wide, the glue will not dry prematurely. Also, the clay will hold your applicator by just pushing the aft end into the clay. Finally, when the remaining glue is dry, just pull the glue plug out of the modeling clay and reform it for the next go round. The clay will last for the rest or your modeling days. I use toothpicks for an applicator.
  13. Not at all meaning to beat a dead horse, but I just picked up this kit at a show over the weekend--the price was good and my curiosity was piqued. After examining it, the nose appears to be more of a Mk. IX--it is longer than a Mk. V and the fastener count after the exhausts is 4 rather than 3. Since I haven't seen anyone else comment on this aspect, I was curious whether anyone else has noticed. If so, I hope Revell come out with a Mk. IX based on this fuselage--then I would buy a armful!
  14. I just tried Tamiya's TS-80 Flat Clear and Testor's Dullcote; I like the Tamiya a bit better. It seems to have a thinner and more even finish.
  15. Nobody likes the Lockheed Hudson/Ventura?
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