VintageEagle

Finally! Riveting of the wing's upper and lower surfaces is complete. To get the rivet pattern as close to the original as possible, I used photos from actual aircraft, original spare parts manual and even original Focke Wulf riveting instructions. Most of the rivet pattern won't be visible well once the aircraft is painted, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the pattern is close to the original pattern. I added the landing flap indicator hole as well as the control link inspection holes on the upper surface. I still need to install the MG 151 covers on the upper surface, but the two pin holes are already drilled. I also added the rivets to the leading edge, which was a bit a challenge due to the bent surface. 
 
Next will be the landing gear bay where I will use a combination of Eduard P/E and Revell parts. I won't use all of Eduard's P/E parts as in my opinion some of them a) don't fit well and b) don't resemble the original parts. 
 
One other challenge I have is the cover of the outboard MG 151 canons. They are not moulded into the Revell kit parts, but Revell just asks you to drill a hole into the leading edge (as the wing was made for the original Fw 190 F-8 kit that didn't have these outboard canons). The original covers look like the one in the last photo below. EagleParts offers such covers in 1/32, but they need to be glued on top of the leading edge, while the original cover was flush with the leading edge. I'll therefore try to scribe the panel lines (difficult around a bent surface) and to build the parts myself using a plastic tube and some filler. If that won't give the results I hope for, I'll go with the EagleParts cover and will try to sand it a bit thinner. 
 
Still a lot to do, but finally a different task ahead than the hours of riveting and one big step closer to complete assembly to start painting.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally! Riveting of the wing's upper and lower surfaces is complete. To get the rivet pattern as close to the original as possible, I used photos from actual aircraft, original spare parts manual and even original Focke Wulf riveting instructions. Most of the rivet pattern won't be visible well once the aircraft is painted, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the pattern is close to the original pattern. I added the landing flap indicator hole as well as the control link inspection holes on the upper surface. I still need to install the MG 151 covers on the upper surface, but the two pin holes are already drilled. I also added the rivets to the leading edge, which was a bit a challenge due to the bent surface. 
 
Next will be the landing gear bay where I will use a combination of Eduard P/E and Revell parts. I won't use all of Eduard's P/E parts as in my opinion some of them a) don't fit well and b) don't resemble the original parts. 
 
One other challenge I have is the cover of the outboard MG 151 canons. They are not moulded into the Revell kit parts, but Revell just asks you to drill a hole into the leading edge (as the wing was made for the original Fw 190 F-8 kit that didn't have these outboard canons). The original covers look like the one in the last photo below. EagleParts offers such covers in 1/32, but they need to be glued on top of the leading edge, while the original cover was flush with the leading edge. I'll therefore try to scribe the panel lines (difficult around a bent surface) and to build the parts myself using a plastic tube and some filler. If that won't give the results I hope for, I'll go with the EagleParts cover and will try to sand it a bit thinner. 
 
Still a lot to do, but finally a different task ahead than the hours of riveting and one big step closer to complete assembly to start painting.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally! Riveting of the wing's upper and lower surfaces is complete. To get the rivet pattern as close to the original as possible, I used photos from actual aircraft, original spare parts manual and even original Focke Wulf riveting instructions. Most of the rivet pattern won't be visible well once the aircraft is painted, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the pattern is close to the original pattern. I added the landing flap indicator hole as well as the control link inspection holes on the upper surface. I still need to install the MG 151 covers on the upper surface, but the two pin holes are already drilled. I also added the rivets to the leading edge, which was a bit a challenge due to the bent surface. 
 
Next will be the landing gear bay where I will use a combination of Eduard P/E and Revell parts. I won't use all of Eduard's P/E parts as in my opinion some of them a) don't fit well and b) don't resemble the original parts. 
 
One other challenge I have is the cover of the outboard MG 151 canons. They are not moulded into the Revell kit parts, but Revell just asks you to drill a hole into the leading edge (as the wing was made for the original Fw 190 F-8 kit that didn't have these outboard canons). The original covers look like the one in the last photo below. EagleParts offers such covers in 1/32, but they need to be glued on top of the leading edge, while the original cover was flush with the leading edge. I'll therefore try to scribe the panel lines (difficult around a bent surface) and to build the parts myself using a plastic tube and some filler. If that won't give the results I hope for, I'll go with the EagleParts cover and will try to sand it a bit thinner. 
 
Still a lot to do, but finally a different task ahead than the hours of riveting and one big step closer to complete assembly to start painting.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally! Riveting of the wing's upper and lower surfaces is complete. To get the rivet pattern as close to the original as possible, I used photos from actual aircraft, original spare parts manual and even original Focke Wulf riveting instructions. Most of the rivet pattern won't be visible well once the aircraft is painted, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the pattern is close to the original pattern. I added the landing flap indicator hole as well as the control link inspection holes on the upper surface. I still need to install the MG 151 covers on the upper surface, but the two pin holes are already drilled. I also added the rivets to the leading edge, which was a bit a challenge due to the bent surface. 
 
Next will be the landing gear bay where I will use a combination of Eduard P/E and Revell parts. I won't use all of Eduard's P/E parts as in my opinion some of them a) don't fit well and b) don't resemble the original parts. 
 
One other challenge I have is the cover of the outboard MG 151 canons. They are not moulded into the Revell kit parts, but Revell just asks you to drill a hole into the leading edge (as the wing was made for the original Fw 190 F-8 kit that didn't have these outboard canons). The original covers look like the one in the last photo below. EagleParts offers such covers in 1/32, but they need to be glued on top of the leading edge, while the original cover was flush with the leading edge. I'll therefore try to scribe the panel lines (difficult around a bent surface) and to build the parts myself using a plastic tube and some filler. If that won't give the results I hope for, I'll go with the EagleParts cover and will try to sand it a bit thinner. 
 
Still a lot to do, but finally a different task ahead than the hours of riveting and one big step closer to complete assembly to start painting.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally! Riveting of the wing's upper and lower surfaces is complete. To get the rivet pattern as close to the original as possible, I used photos from actual aircraft, original spare parts manual and even original Focke Wulf riveting instructions. Most of the rivet pattern won't be visible well once the aircraft is painted, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the pattern is close to the original pattern. I added the landing flap indicator hole as well as the control link inspection holes on the upper surface. I still need to install the MG 151 covers on the upper surface, but the two pin holes are already drilled. I also added the rivets to the leading edge, which was a bit a challenge due to the bent surface. 
 
Next will be the landing gear bay where I will use a combination of Eduard P/E and Revell parts. I won't use all of Eduard's P/E parts as in my opinion some of them a) don't fit well and b) don't resemble the original parts. 
 
One other challenge I have is the cover of the outboard MG 151 canons. They are not moulded into the Revell kit parts, but Revell just asks you to drill a hole into the leading edge (as the wing was made for the original Fw 190 F-8 kit that didn't have these outboard canons). The original covers look like the one in the last photo below. EagleParts offers such covers in 1/32, but they need to be glued on top of the leading edge, while the original cover was flush with the leading edge. I'll therefore try to scribe the panel lines (difficult around a bent surface) and to build the parts myself using a plastic tube and some filler. If that won't give the results I hope for, I'll go with the EagleParts cover and will try to sand it a bit thinner. 
 
Still a lot to do, but finally a different task ahead than the hours of riveting and one big step closer to complete assembly to start painting.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks guys!  The G-6/AS is wrapping up.  I've added some additional weathering to the drop tank, which you won't be able to see since it will be on the top side.  Experimenting with intentional pastel wash staining on a matt surface...

 
The drop tank is the last significant hardware to be added to the G-6.  The pitot tube, which was built out of brass tubing, is added and the aerial, using Uschi's elastic thread is the final touch.


 
The Bf109G-6/AS is complete!  The clouds started gathering again here in SoCal so I rushed some outdoor shots with the DSLR before the rain comes again.  I'll probably re-do the final shots when there is some ambient sunlight but here are some pics with the good camera...

Good day, friends!
I want to show you my new model - revell He-219 A-7.
In work I used:
BigEd,
BigSin,
Barracuda,
Master 20, 30 mm gun barrels,
Profimodeller antennas,
CMK seats,
HGW belts,
SWS crew,
and DML Kettenkraftrad.
I used Gunze paints and oils.
 
















 

Thanks guys!  I think I'm approaching the finish line for the Hohenjager.  With the SAC landing gear legs firmly glued into place, I've attached the Barracuda wheels using JB Kwik Weld to make sure the flat spots connect with the ground.

 
All of these bits need to be attached now.

 
The AMUR Reaver supercharger, the Barracuda exhausts and the brass sheet exhaust deflectors are glued into place.

 
The lower inner flaps are put on first and the other control surfaces follow.  The middle elevators are still poseable per Revell's instructions but the rest of the control surfaces have been glued.




 
Let's stick the Barracuda prop assembly on and she how she looks.


 
All of the spray work is done so I can finally take off the canopy masks. Always a nerve-racking reveal at this stage.




 
The sculpted boot on the tail wheel is painted.

 
The drop tank has not yet been attached.  I'm still deciding whether or not to add some more stains to it.

 
You know you're close to the finish when you see the antenna mast and loop antenna attached.



 
The only things remaining are the small antenna on the bottom of the fuselage, the aileron balancers and the antenna aerial.
 

Great choice! The 190 is one of my favorite planes and I have studied it in detail for my 1/32 build. I’ll help with information where I can. 

Results of the hairspray chipping on the wing roots...


 
After a few touch-ups, the RLM 76 main camo is complete.


 
The yellow beneath the nose is masked off and painted.


 
The model in the lightbox to try and show the effects of the preshading.

afternoon ladies
 
thank you so much for the warm welcome on this build I am really excited about it even though it is as far as you can get from the well documented P51C with a full library of every drawing available to look up.. I will just have to domore 'interpretation' than usual!
 
 
 
 
Thanks Roger & Alain - I am already in your debt, for the info you have already sent and am going to need wingmen like you to help me on this one
 
 
 
Ah Wackyracer, you were pipped to the post by one, otherwise you would have been my very first Patron! I have really enjoyed making video blogs of the build to compliment WIP posts and think it really does bring another dimension to not only what I do, but sharing it with you good folks
 
another video went up this morning, so do catch that one
 
 
 
Hi Miamiangler- stay safe over there and can't wait to see a fellow build of this engimatic aircraft
 
So where were we... breaking up the 21st Century Toys 'toy' into bits...
 
The model is mainly made up from bits that are either screwed together, or have 'nubs' that pass through a hole and are then melted with what looks like a soldering iron, so by breaking out those nubs it came to pieces quite easily & quickly...
 
..the fuselage and all those bits...
 

 
..and the wings and all those bits...
 

 
..comparing to plans, the shapes are pretty good - the fuselage is a tad short at the tail, but that's no problem to correct later..
 

 
..and the wings are fine..
 

 
..the model is covered in deep panel lines which will be a problem when it comes to skinning, so the first step was to fill these with P40 filler...
 

 

 
..no this is not some late war camoflage, this is what it looks like after sanding the filler down...
 

 
..the recess for the airscoop was also filled..
 

 
..then the fuselage & wings were shot with some high build primer - mainly so I have a unified looking set of parts to work with, but also to help visualisation..
 

 

 

 

 
..have also started to gather what drawings I can find and start translating them into what will become a large photo-etch set, although the etcher's I use PPD have suspended trading due to covid so that will be a while yet
 

 
..and even while preparing that top instrument panel part, I learned thanks to forum contributors that this Fw190 would have had ancilliary instruments like this shot of a high altitude test aircraft - this is what I will copy I expect...
 

 
so, we are on our way.... a million parts to go, but I think it is going to be a blast
 
Don't forget, if you fancy it, video builds and articles are and will continue to be posted on Patreon
 
TTFN
 
Peter
 
 

Great choice! The 190 is one of my favorite planes and I have studied it in detail for my 1/32 build. I’ll help with information where I can. 

The surface of the kit was almost completely redone by engraving new Panel lines and stitching rivets.
 

I have almost completed riveting both wing upper and lower surfaces. Only some details to be done (pictures hopefully in a few days from now). One thing where I am stuck are the leading edges. I have seen photos and manual drawings that show inner ribs (see photo below, the leading edge is in the center in front of the wing). However, the rivets are hard to see on photos and most modelers who have riveted a Fw 190 have not added any rivets to the leading edges. I have added a photo where you can see the rivets below.
 
Does anybody have a better picture of the leading edge (inside and outside where the rivets can be seen)?
 

 

 
 

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Finally, I completed the last part before I can close the fuselage and move on: the cover above the instrument panel. When I looked at wartime photos, I noticed that there are six nuts (2x3) visible on the top of the cover near the opening for the Revi 16B gunsight. These are not present on the Eduard cover. Therefore, I added them using Archer rivets. I used them for the first time and I must say they are great and it worked without a problem. I had to repeat the first attempt, but it was my own fault. After I painted the rivets, I applied tape on top of it when masking the leather frame. When I removed the tape, the rivets stuck to it and I had to start over again. But next time, I was more careful and it worked perfectly. I highlighted the nuts with a thin brush and used a dark grey wash.
 

Fw 190 D-11 cockpit where nuts can be seen on both side of the Revi 16B
 

Eduard part with Archer rivets on the left side and Revel part on the right side
 

Completed cover
 

Other side (slightly out of focus, but I am using an iPhone for the photos as I don't have a camera with a macro lens)
 
Next step was to paint the leather (on later versions it was a synthetic material and not leather). I checked many references to decide what color to use. I found brown, black, dark grey, greenish grey, light grey and beige. The Ta 152 H that still exists today for example has a beige material. I found a photo of a Fw 190 A-8 that also had a very lightly colored material.
 

 
The first aircraft I will complete is the Fw 190 A-8. I found a color photo of an aircraft that was only few aircraft apart from the subject that I plan to build and that one had a beige material:
 

 
Therefore, I decided to paint it beige as well. It gives a bit of contrast and looks quite attractive. Finally, I painted the inside of the fuselage around the cockpit (RLM 66), exhaust area (black) and tail wheel (bare metal):
 

 
That's it for now. I have some respect of the next step: joining the fuselage and cockpit. I don't know if it is better to attach cockpit and cover to one side first and then joining the fuselage. Or joining the fuselage first and then adding the cockpit from below. I'll see and then can only hope that I don't do a big mistake that will evaporate all my motivation on this build.
 
 
 

As my P51C is nearly finished, I wanted to start on a new project.
This is the Focke-Wulf Fw190C V18, about which Wikipedia says:
 
"The C model's use of the longer DB 603 engine required more extensive changes to the airframe. As the weight was distributed further forward, the tail of the aircraft had to be lengthened in order to maintain the desired centre of gravity. To test these changes, several examples of otherwise standard 190 As were re-engined with a supercharged DB 603 to experiment with this engine. Prototypes V13 – V16 tested various PS and DB603 engines until the V18 followed, the first to feature the full high-altitude suite of features, including the pressurized cockpit, longer wings, a 603G engine driving a new four-blade propeller, and a Hirth 9-2281 turbocharger. Unlike the experimental B models, V18 had a cleaner turbocharger installation, running the required piping along the wing root, partially buried in the fillet, and installing both the turbocharger air intake and intercooler in a substantially sized teardrop shaped fairing under the cockpit.[36] This "pouch" led to the "Känguruh" (Kangaroo) nickname for these models."
 
I was drawn to it as I have always loved the 190 series, particularly the ‘Langnase’ D models and in particular, this airframe had about as much natural metal as I could find on any variant which is my penchant for showing.
 
There are a number of period photo’s walking round the airframe so let’s take a look at the challenge ahead..

 

 

 
I also found some very nice shots of a built-up model – no idea whose or what scale, but credit to them..
 
 

 
As for the basis of the model, I found the range of 21st Century Toys 1/18 models online, which feature ‘toylike’ things such as spinning props, retractable U/C, moveable flying surfaces, but at their heart are actually very accurate replica’s of the airframes covered (at least the Fw190D is..)..
 
A quick tour of the model – this was £160 on ebay – probably well overpriced, but when I see what I want, I pay for it..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
So my take is this is a great basis for my next project. I have been busy collecting reference online, have a 1/48 Eduard ProfiPack Fw190D kit as a reference mule, a CD of works drawings on their way from ebay, had Arthur Bentley run me up a fabulous set of 1/18 plans and started some rudimentary artwork for some of the Photo-Etch components that will need to be developed, plus a very healthy dose of excitement and trepidation
 
I am going to need all the help I can get in interpreting Luftwaffe colours etc and I know we have ‘experten’ on hand, so please get involved
 
One thing that is different for this build though is a new thing I am trying called Patreon. This is an online platform where I get to share WIP content to ‘patrons’ who support me. It means nothing in terms of my forum posts here as they will continue with the regularity and scope they always did, but what it does mean is I can bring video to the build and in some ways ‘exclusives’ to those who choose to support me – this is an expensive hobby, I think my P51 netted out at about £1.8k all in and I am simply trying to find ways to offset that via the content I create for people to enjoy.
 
Anyways, no-one has to do it, but there is a welcome video with a walkaround of my P51C that anyone can see, so if you are interested take a look at that at least!
 
In addition, there are already Fw190C videos up
 
Here is the link to my Patreon page
 
I hope you will join me on my next journey and next time I will have this 'toy' broken down into a bunch of expensive parts
 
TTFN
Peter
 

1/32 A7- Corsair finished build complete, I used the verlinden navy carrier tractor, Reedoak’s figures and Eduard MK 84 bombs, along with resin electronics bays and wheel wheels, it’s a pain to build, but over come it and it’s a nice model, painted with MRP paints, this isn’t it’s true base she will join the F-14 Tomcat and F-4 on the carrier deck I built for a collector in London enjoy.  

March 13/20
 
Well I don't know what it's like where you live, but here in Calgary the C-Virus hysteria is at a peak.  Businesses are closed and we are told to stay home and hide under our beds until further notice.     Further, the weather has turned cold again, so what's a guy to do?  How about Model?!  With every sport shut down, I can't think of a better hobby when you're stuck indoors, can you?
 
First Paint, which is my favorite part of modeling.  A first coat of paint will tell you how well you assembled and glued the plastic together, which can sometimes be disappointing.  That's why I go to the effort of using a dark wash during assembly, which reveals flaws before they are painted and are easier to fix.  Luckily, I found only a couple of new ones, which I have already repaired.
 
Before painting, it was time to glue in the extensive Eduard PE brass rear flaps, which I had left off to avoid damaging the delicate detail within.  The fit is excellent, but I still had to sand off some of the brass at the rear to ensure a clean rear edge.
 

 
If you build this kit, I highly recommend the Eduard "BIG Ed" kit, which has lots of detail missing on the kit parts.
 

 
I usually use Tamiya Gloss Black lacquer as a first coat rather than a true primer, but for this yellow bird I'm using Gloss White instead (TS-26 Pure White from a rattle can).  This should make painting the yellow easier and with less paint.  Since it's just an undercoat, I have sprayed it on relatively thin to retain detail, hence the blotchy appearance.  One great thing about this model is that both the wheel wells and flaps are painted the same yellow as the rest of the aircraft, which makes painting so much easier.  That probably wasn't the original paint scheme, but it is now, which is all that matters.
 

 
One of the flaws found after paint are the ridges along the rear of the wing, which are due to sink marks around the flap detail underneath.  These were totally invisible before, but thankfully easy to sand off and remove.
 

 
I will let this paint dry for two full days, then lightly sand off crap and other imperfections, followed by 2 coats of yellow, which will be Tamiya TS-34 Camel Yellow, which is the perfect shade of yellow with an orange tinge found on these trainers.  The "Camel" it turns out, is the same yellow as found on Camel cigarette packages.  Who knew!?
 

 
Cheers- and wash your hands!
Chuck

Hi Damian,
 
You could use my website/shop for offering the landing gear parts until your own page is ready. https://vintageeagle.com/product-category/all-categories/
 
Cheers,
Roger

LG for the Revell FW190 F-8 is already available. Hopefully a set for the Hasegawa FW is in the works. These are VERY nice products and HIGHLY recommended! Sure beats my method of simulating oleos by wrapping them in chrome mylar tape.
 
EDIT: I stand corrected, they are also available for the Hasegawa FW

Will there also be legs for the Revell 1/32 Fw 190 and Me 262? Where will they be offered for sale?

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger