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About wpierson

  • Rank
    LSP Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Spokane, WA
  • Interests
    anything aircraft or historics. Also enjoy leatherwork, camping and pestering my 11 year old daughter!
  1. I remember the kits of my youth. I searched for kits with details like retractable landing gear, sliding canopies, etc. To me the ultimate was monogram's P-51 with working gear, dropping bombs, and spinning prop. Yeah, they may be more toy like, but to an excited 8 year old, they were the bees knees.
  2. So I don't have a lot of knowledge about Japanese radial engines. What is that copper colored structure on the front? Also, isn't it a bit weird to have parts that will never be visible such as the pistons included in a model? I mean if you're showing the engine torn apart for maint. but it's weird. Just like Trumpeter including the entire turbo routing system on the P-47 ; great if you're doing a cutaway, but otherwise useless?
  4. I was looking through some old P-47 photos and noticed something you might want to add to your weathering. Just aft of the exhaust wastes gate are the inboard gear doors. The heat from the exhausts tended to burn off the yellow ZC paint and stain the inside of the gear door.
  5. This is great! I've always wanted to build a WnW model and this is why; the detail is wonderful and you are really doing it well!
  6. I wouldn't worry about the missing rudder pedals on the weapons officer side. Naval aircraft don't have flight controls on the right or for back seaters.
  7. I'm really looking forward to this build. Too bad about not doing the external lights, but the interior should be spectacular!
  8. Amazing work Wolf, but since I'm fairly new to modeling after a 20 year hiatus, where do you find all these detail pieces? The tiny lead wire, resin rivets and bolts, placards and such? I read these threads and just get lost.
  9. I just started reading this thread. Unfortunately the photos on pgs 1-18 are not coming thru. But I'll be watching because you scratch builders astound me!
  10. Hi, I've noticed in a number of WIP posts that a lot of modelers use cutting wheels, etc for cutting out small intricate parts from either plastic stock or metal. A suggestion would be to get a jewelers saw. It's like a coping saw but with very very fine teeth on a very thin blade. The saws cost about $15, and you buy blades in packs of a dozen for about $6-8. The blades will cut through even hardened steel so plastic, brass, aluminum, etc is a breeze. Plus with the blades being so thin you can cut really tight curves and intricate shapes easily without having to nibble away big chunks of material with a demel wheel. Plus you don't get melted plastic that sometimes happen with power tools and the cut is so fine there's very little if no saw marks in your material.
  11. Hi! I just found this thread and have really enjoyed reading it. I do have a couple of comments; more for trivia sake than critique. You're a much better modeler than I. 1. On the ejection seat you were wondering about two lap belt connectors. one set connects the pilot harness to the seat, the other connects the pilot harness to the survival kit under the seat. 2. I read this hint on another thread and it made a great deal of sense to me; when using masks, spray a light coat of clear and let dry before spraying the color coat. The light clear coat will act as a sealer and prevent your color coat from sneaking under the edges of the mask ensuring a nice crisp edge. I thought that would be useful to pass along especially with as complicated a paint scheme as you're doing. You're a braver man than I! Best of luck, Bill
  12. The razorback is one of my favorites. I'll be watching this!
  13. Thanks for the information Chuck, I really appreciate it! Bill
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