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wpierson

LSP_Members
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    38
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About wpierson

  • Rank
    LSP Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Spokane, WA
  • Interests
    anything aircraft or historics. Also enjoy leatherwork, camping and pestering my 11 year old daughter!
  1. a BEAUTIFUL JOB ON THE PILOT. dID HE COME WITH THE KIT? i WOULD LOVE TO SEE A TUTORIAL ON PAINTING HIM.
  2. I was looking through some old P-47 photos and noticed something you might want to add to your weathering. Just aft of the exhaust wastes gate are the inboard gear doors. The heat from the exhausts tended to burn off the yellow ZC paint and stain the inside of the gear door.
  3. This is great! I've always wanted to build a WnW model and this is why; the detail is wonderful and you are really doing it well!
  4. I wouldn't worry about the missing rudder pedals on the weapons officer side. Naval aircraft don't have flight controls on the right or for back seaters.
  5. I'm really looking forward to this build. Too bad about not doing the external lights, but the interior should be spectacular!
  6. Amazing work Wolf, but since I'm fairly new to modeling after a 20 year hiatus, where do you find all these detail pieces? The tiny lead wire, resin rivets and bolts, placards and such? I read these threads and just get lost.
  7. I just started reading this thread. Unfortunately the photos on pgs 1-18 are not coming thru. But I'll be watching because you scratch builders astound me!
  8. Hi, I've noticed in a number of WIP posts that a lot of modelers use cutting wheels, etc for cutting out small intricate parts from either plastic stock or metal. A suggestion would be to get a jewelers saw. It's like a coping saw but with very very fine teeth on a very thin blade. The saws cost about $15, and you buy blades in packs of a dozen for about $6-8. The blades will cut through even hardened steel so plastic, brass, aluminum, etc is a breeze. Plus with the blades being so thin you can cut really tight curves and intricate shapes easily without having to nibble away big chunks of material with a demel wheel. Plus you don't get melted plastic that sometimes happen with power tools and the cut is so fine there's very little if no saw marks in your material.
  9. Hi! I just found this thread and have really enjoyed reading it. I do have a couple of comments; more for trivia sake than critique. You're a much better modeler than I. 1. On the ejection seat you were wondering about two lap belt connectors. one set connects the pilot harness to the seat, the other connects the pilot harness to the survival kit under the seat. 2. I read this hint on another thread and it made a great deal of sense to me; when using masks, spray a light coat of clear and let dry before spraying the color coat. The light clear coat will act as a sealer and prevent your color coat from sneaking under the edges of the mask ensuring a nice crisp edge. I thought that would be useful to pass along especially with as complicated a paint scheme as you're doing. You're a braver man than I! Best of luck, Bill
  10. The razorback is one of my favorites. I'll be watching this!
  11. Thanks for the information Chuck, I really appreciate it! Bill
  12. Hi, Just wanted to say how much I'm enjoying reading this thread. You are a serious wealth of modeling "how to" information. That being said, I do have a question; on 1/17 you posted about using LS to beef up a pin the you had undermined while adding depth to a vent. I've heard of using LS on different threads, but no one has really offered up any information that I've found on how to make LS, use and store it. Could you do a small tutorial on that? How long is it good for once it's made etc. Thanks in advance! Bill
  13. Hi Really enjoying your build. I did want to comment on something you mentioned earlier, that you intend to freehand your cammo paint job. I read an article some months ago that discussed painting patterns on WWII aircraft. The article stated that while the US did freehand painting, the British did not. According to the article, the manufacturers used large rubber and horsehair mats as templates in the paint shop thus, British aircraft cammo patterns had hard edges, not feathered like US aircraft. The photos used in the articles showed the mats being used on Spitfires. Not sure if they were used on Mossies, or if Canadian built Mossies were freehand or template painted, but I thought I'd give you aheads up on something I read since you want to put this in an IPMS show. Bill
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