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jenshb

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Everything posted by jenshb

  1. Thanks for that Karl. How much shorter is the resin nose than the kit nose? Jens
  2. Regarding wheels...I wonder if you can use 1:48 Mirage 2000 wheels as a starting point at least for the mains? Jens
  3. I seem to remember one of the French members here on LSP was scratchbuilding a Mirage F.1 in 1:32, but the project stalled. He made quite good progress on the fuselage IIRC. Tried to find that thread again, but came up with nothing. Would love to see some progress on that. To my eyes, the windshield of the F.1 appears longer and narrower than the III and 5, so the only part you may be able to use would be the canopy, and I wouldn't be surprised if that too was different. Given the age of the kit, I would think the exhaust is so poor that you'd be better off replacing that or scratchbuilding it. I suppose the nosecone, air intakes and tailfin can all be a useful basis to work from. Jens
  4. Great work on these detail sets that will really add to the model. Would you mind taking a photo comparing the kit nose to the resin nose to highlight the differences? One thing that I have noticed on my 1:48 Trumpeter Flogger is that the wings have no anhedral. The wing gloves have a slight anhedral, but the wings are flat. From pics, it appears that the wings should have anhedral as well. I am assuming that Trumpeter used the same 3D surfaces when they shrank the 1:32 kit to 1:48... Jens
  5. I guess the real reason the Aires cockpit doesn't fit is that it's not made for the Matchbox Mk. 22... Having said that, Aires do not have the best reputation, and I wouldn't want to risk trashing a £100 Tamiya Spitfire by trying to fit that cockpit set - gorgeous as it may seem. The boxart of the Matchbox kit made me want an 80 Sqn Spitfire Mk.24 really bad back then, but my ambitions exceeded my skills back then, and now I think I will settle for a 1:48 scale version. Looking forward to seeing you improve this kit. Jens
  6. When/if I ever get around to build my big Eagle, I will use this thread as a reference to fixing the Tamiya kit. To be fair to Tamiya though; it is not possible to correctly represent that panel line between the engines given the limitations of tooling... Jens
  7. It's a subtle effect that will add a lot to an overall dark green finish. Jens
  8. Nice detailing work on that radial engine! Jens
  9. Very informative video - definitely something I will try at some point. Followed your bare metal experiment videos too - good stuff! Jens
  10. Maybe the decal wasn't completely cured/set? Future appears to be fairly hard but also very brittle and inflexible. If the underlay is moving or able to shrink and contract, then the Future will crack. Jens
  11. I was puzzled that Tamiya seem to provide 8 Sparrows for a plane that can only carry 4, and then I noticed that two of the sparrows have a longer slot in them and a longer waveguide (?) to be glued in place. Would these be AIM-7Ms? Jens
  12. Amazing what thread drift can do - thanks for the history lesson:) Jens
  13. Thin lead wire (forms more easily than copper or brass) painted black or very dark grey held in place with Future would be my first thought... Jens
  14. The original Hasegawa kit does provide a Stencel seat...what's wrong with it? Jens
  15. This was one of my candidates to the group build too. Jens
  16. Now *there* is a challenge! I wonder if the Aires nozzles and some resin intakes made for the Academy kit will fit. Jens
  17. Just thinking out loud here, but would it be possible to use the 1:48 Hasegawa kit as a starting point for the wings and parts of the fuselage, or are there simply too many differences? Jens
  18. Well, it is already proven I suck at groupbuilds, but I do have a Tamiya Tomcat that I have wanted to build to see if my skills have improved since building it back in 1981/82:) Jens
  19. With my limited experiments of decals onto aluminium foil, I think you will see the decal film around each design even if you clearcoat the model. That you may have to do anyway to prevent oxidation. Considering the scale, it might be worth cutting masks and painting the markings on instead. Or perhaps making rubdown transfers? The other alternative I can think of would be HGW's method of wet transfer with a film that you then peel off so no carrier film remains on the model. Jens
  20. Any requirements whether the kit must be virgin or part started? Jens
  21. The resin looks first class, but I'm a bit surprised it doesn't include the RWRs for the brakechute housing. The other area of concern is the top of the tailfin. This appears to have the wedge shape of the C/D, wheras the AM/BM pictures I have of Norwegian F-16s retain the smaller A/B style that only bulges above the rudder itself, so this doesn't appear to be a true AM/BM tailfin. Jens
  22. A very worthy tribute to your Great Uncle Artur. Jens
  23. Interesting series of gunsight camera pics TTail. How did the F-16 happen to be in front of your camera? Jens
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