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jenshb

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Everything posted by jenshb

  1. Yes, the wing was definitely different, however, the basic planform matched that of the original wing except near the tip. If you look at Sheet no 1 of Arthur Bentley's drawing, the wing planform takes the extended high altitude wing tips, crop them and rounds off the edges to match the wingspan of the elliptical wing tips. The Tamiya wing can therefore be used as a basis for a Mk. 21-24 conversion - as per Jumpei Temma's findings and SEafire 47 conversion. It will need a total rescribe and a fair bit of cut and splice though... https://www.albentley-drawings.com/drawings/british-aircraft/supermarine-spitfire/supermarine-spitfire/
  2. Received my order today - thanks Maurizio. The SUU-20 looks as good as the reviews say it is. Jens
  3. I may stand to be corrected, but from what I recall, the wing planform was initially identical to the original Spitfire wing with the extended wingtips. These were later cropped so that the wingspan was identical to the elliptical Spitfire wing, but with differently shaped wingtips. Can't recall if the aerofoil would be the same or different, but it probably won't be noticeable on the model. The structure underneath the skin was totally different though, so all panel lines would be different. Jumpei Temma converted the Tamiya Mk XVI into a Seafire 47, which is probably not going to be less effort than trying to get the Matchbox kit (later released by REvell) to a modern standard. http://www.hyperscale.com/2014/features/seafire4732jt_1.htm
  4. Some good lateral thinking and problem solving here.
  5. In the early 70s Scandinavian Airlines experimented with removing white and grey paint from the fuselages of a few DC-9s to save weight and hence fuel. They found that the maintenance effort required outweighted the savings from the lower fuel burn, so the remaining fleet stayed with the white crown and grey or silver belly.
  6. Reedoak has recently added a seated Mirage 2000 pilot to their range. http://reedoak.com/#!/1-32-french-modern-Armée-de-lAir-mirage-2000-pilot-sitting-2-hands-on-sticks-DS-seat-NOT-included/p/198185093/category=14705008
  7. No I wasn't expecting him to provide replacement prints free of charge, but he might be able to correct the CAD for future prints, or even for his own use.
  8. The parts seem to clean up well - this was ABS or polystyrene? We tend to use PLA at work for our 3D prints, and that material doesn't seem to like being sanded. Have you thought about contacting the gentleman who made the kit with your findings so he can modify his CAD model to make it more correct? Jens
  9. Just placed an order. Jens
  10. Thank you for the update onosendai. Looking forward to your website going live. Jens
  11. If you have a Silhouette Portrait or Cameo cutter, you could make scribing templates from 0.25 mm plasticard. I have used the Chipboard setting on my Portrait to cut that plastic, and while it doesn't cut through, the plastic snaps easily. Other than that, there are scribing templates in etched stainless steel from Hasegawa/Trytool for example, but you will need to move them around to get the size you want. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hasegawa-Trytool-Template-Set-TP01/dp/B000S6F05Q
  12. Also saves space on the shelf:) Personally I like the swept back position as it really shows off the largest dog-tooth leading edges ever fitted to a fighter jet. They look positively evil:)
  13. The Stuka kit was hailed as one of the world's best kits at the time I believe, but the moulds for the Spitfire and Messerschmitt 109 really ought to be retired and redone. Hopefully, Airfix would make multiple versions, including a Mk.IX and XIV. I've always been a bit underwhealmed by the Harrier. A two-piece ejection seat in 1:24 scale? Definitely looks like that kit was suddenly designed down to a budget. If Airfix are going to follow the money from the American market, I think a Corsair would make the most sense as it is a reasonable size and also has the Fleet Air Arm connection. P-47 - that would compete with the Kinetic kit that has already filled that niche, so sales will be limited. P-38? Rather big and limited British connection, unless one is thinking "British based".
  14. Thanks guys. Hopefully the world gets back to something resembling normality by the time I need to put things under wings. Jens
  15. Although it will be a while yet, I am looking at what to hang from my F-5A, and many photos from firing exercises in the RNoAF show the SUU-20 pod on the centre pylon. Seeing that Videoaviation makes one in 1:32 - as well as other goodies (including the M-117 750 lb bomb and LAU-3 rocket pod also used on Norwegian F-5s) - where can you get them from? The link only says an online shop will be "coming soon". Jens
  16. If you're building it in flight, why did you remove the nose weight?
  17. Right, I think I'm done grinding resin from the fuselage now. I don't like intake covers as they detract from the appearance of the aircraft, so the solid intakes had to go. The resin is now slightly translucent in places. Rather than trying to make intake ducts from epoxy putty and getting them symmetric and smooth, I modelled some intake ducts and inlet guide vanes for the compressor in CAD and had them 3D printed by Tim. They are not intended to be accurate and full length, just a representation. The small size of the intake, and the fact that they will be painted silver/aluminium meant that the pain wasn't worth the gain in my opinion. I would also have to do a lot more resin grinding which might weaken the fuselage too much. I think the effect will be adequate fro the penlight brigade:) And that includes myself. The other things that were in the package from Tim were the tip tanks - removed the wrong tip tank from the supports for the assembled wing, but it shows the idea. Once the model can come together, I will use Magic Sculpt to fill the gap on the wing. A small price to pay for positive alignment and secure attachment. Also had new main tyres printed as I wasn't happy with the shape of the first one. Time to go mix some Magic Sculpt...
  18. Good to see you can turn misfortune into fortune with the EW Officer's work station. Terriffic work all round. What width/depth do you model your panel lines on the tail fairing to?
  19. Great work, but making hexagonal bolt heads would do my head in. Have you looked at Meng nuts and bolts? http://www.missing-lynx.com/reviews/modern/mengsps008reviewcs_1.html
  20. Anthony, on your DSLR, switch the mode to aperture priority and set the aperture (f-stop - to the highest possible number, i.e. smallest possible aperture). This will give you the greatest depth of field to ensure all your image will be in focus. This will make your shutter speed longer, so you may need to use image stabilisation on your lens or a tripod. If you don't have a remote control for your shutter release, you can use the timer. You can increase the ISO to compensate, but that will give a grainier picture, so a low ISO number will also help with sharpness. Keep up the wood work - it's a treat to see!
  21. MrHobby is an aquaeous acrylic, but the recommended thinner is still MrColor Self-Levelling thinner. The "aquaeous" part means you can clean your brushes in water, but if you smell the bottle of paint, it doesn't smell of water - it is an alcohol base. Isopropyl alcohol is a good solvent for cleaning the brushes too. Even though a paint is "acrylic", it doesn't mean it's good to suck the paint particles into your lungs. Use a face mask and open a window to vent the fumes, and then it doesn't really matter what paint you're airbrushing IMO.
  22. Good read. Thanks for sharing.
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