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Everything posted by jenshb

  1. A couple of things on the Norwegian aircraft: 332 Sqn at Rygge AB received their first F-86F Sabre in 1957 and was designated as the operational conversion unit for the Sabre. These would have been delivered with the original seat. In 1960-62, the Sabres were modified to take Martin Baker seats (I believe they were Mk.5). 332 Sqn flew the F-86F until 1963, when they were transferred to Gardermoen AB to become an all-weather interceptor unit on the F-86K. They were deactivated the following year, so the date on the decal instructions can't be right. There is (or at least was) a Sabre pres
  2. OK, didn't realise they were that different. I guess most people would want to build Olds' aircraft, with the aircraft with the most "interesting" finish second.
  3. Could you provide the numbers as separate items so people could assemble them to make the numbers they want? We're talking about the large, light grey numbers, right?
  4. There is this possibility... https://www.f35.com/news/detail/raaf-f-35a-au-1-revealed
  5. No, the early ones are gray and gray with gray markings.:) The current ones tend to be just gray with gray markings though. Alternatively, they are bright green with gray RAM strips around panels before they get their "any shade as long as it's gray" paint scheme
  6. Although this thread is mostly about USN, it might be relevant to discuss British practices too? Can't say I've noticed any difference in appearance between fabric and non-fabric surfaces, so surely they must be painted? If paint does not stick well to doped fabric, would we not see flaking on fabric covered control surfaces like elevators and rudders for Hurricanes (or indeed the entire rear fuselage of that one), Spitfires and Mosquitos? These parts were camouflaged, and surely it would be impractical to apply two shades of dope at the upper surfaces and a third one underneath at the poin
  7. Mirrors... On the Eduard Spitfires I have built (1:48), I have punched a disc of Bare Metal foil and applied to the mirror face, and then polished it using very fine polishing sticks. It comes out looking quite bright.
  8. I think the rivet pattern looks convincing and credible - shouldn't that continue below the splitter as well? The 43 Sqn CO scheme looks sharp, but 111 Sqn also had a special scheme involving a black spine and yellow markings - too loud?
  9. A Starfighter kill mark - or a Zap?
  10. I'm always wondering what colour gets painted behind the splitter plate - the lower colour - not the upper. Woudl it be understurface colour extending all the way, or the upper surface colour in the side view...? Anyway, for rivets, I would follow the rear bulkhead of the front cockpit as well as keeping vertical rivets going with the same distance as you have done for the front cockpit.
  11. Master make a refuelling probe in turned aluminium in 1:32... https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/MR32030?result-token=25ilJ Interesting conversion and good job on the crisp and clean panel lines.
  12. £42 including postage to the UK from Lucky Model. If the UK price is similar, I can see these flying off the shelves. I see Aviation Megastore is advertising the pre-order price of €38 (including tax), and Hannant's pre-order price is £45 - regular price will be £50.
  13. Maybe you can contact Mika Jernfors at Arctic Decals (he's based in Finland) to do a custom laser print? I've seen his work, and it is top notch.
  14. My hat's off to you for going above and beyond on this project. It will look fabulous when all done.
  15. Persistence pays off, and those rivets will look great under a coat of paint. Are you applying them to the bare plastic, or have you applied a clear coat for the decals to grab on to?
  16. Will the misshapen Trumpeter canopy be so obvious if you put it in the open position?
  17. If it had gone ahead, it would be a shadow of its' previous self, so it was the only realistic option. 2021 should be a cracker.
  18. Make the demarcation line inside and out with red decal film and let dry. Then paint the rest of the lip red, overlapping the decal, but not going beyond the edge to the white. If there is a step, micromesh to level the paint and touch up if necessary.
  19. Very informative post cmayer - thank you. Regarding the red stripe behind the radome, I thought it might be a warning stripe for the radar/radiation, but only a squadron mark... Jennings' profiles also show the upper bare metal area overpainted - didn't notice that until your comments made me go back and look. Good catch Jennings. Interesting that the inner wing pylons were Navy style. Learning more and more about this, and loving it.
  20. Nice! What's the purpose of the red stripe behind the radome?
  21. But that would be unrealistic. Aircraft aren't designed to do that.
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