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Everything posted by jenshb

  1. I'd love a 1:32 F-5A to put Norwegian roundels on... Jens
  2. Vingtor Decals do that scheme. http://vingtor.net/ Search Multiscale, sheet no M-117 is what you want. You can order from the site. Jens
  3. jenshb

    F-15DJ 1/32

    I can't. When I visited the Shizuoka Hobby Show in May 2014, I asked them, and even told them people were buying Hasegawa two-seat F-16s to convert their kit (i.e. they were helping the competition). Doesn't seem to have made an impact... BTW, this was for 1:48 scale. Jens
  4. jenshb

    F-15DJ 1/32

    You can purchase sprues from Tamiya kits currently in production from vendors like Time Tunnel Models here in the UK. I have used them on a few occasions, and never had a problem. The fastest I got the sprues were two weeks. Sometimes they have to get them from Japan, and then it takes longer - up to six weeks. You will need the kit number and sprue number (the seven-digit code). Jens
  5. The FSD aircraft was the step between the prototype YF-16 and the Block 1 production version. The FSD weren't fully representative of the production airfraft in that some of the panel lines on the spine were different (the upper fuel cell panels) and the lack or the RWR antenna fairings on the nose and tail. I don't know if any of the FSD aircraft were originally fitted with ACES II seats, but the kit gives you the Stencel seat in plastic. Hasegawa later included an ACES II in white metal when they released it as a production F-16A and F-16C. Jens
  6. There's more than just the nose and nose wheel door to fix to make a YF-16 from the Hasegawa F-16A kit. The differences in the canopy is that the YF had a more reclined angle on the arch between the forward and rear canopy, but the slimmer nose would probably influence the shape of the front canopy frame. That's hard to fix, so may not be worth it if you're making the model with the canopy up. The cockpit was different - the seat was an ESCAPAC (Stencel seat in the first FSD aircraft), and the rear bulkhead was sloping to follow the seat as opposed to vertical in FSD and production versions. Add to the fact that the wing was slightly shorter in chord and span and the length of the fuselage was different - the FSD aircraft grew in almost every direction. There is a sketch in the first Squadron Signal book on the F-16 that outlines the differences. The fairing around the exhaust also changed between YF-16 and F-16, and the YF-16 main wheels were - apparently - B-58 main wheels. I don't have the details, but according to Mike Valde, the wheel wells were different from the YF and F as well. Jens
  7. Mike Valdez can correct me on this, but I belive the only reasonably accurate kit of the YF-16 is the 1:72 Hasegawa kit, alter modified into the CCV type by adding canard wings to the air intakes. Otaki made a good representation of the YF-16 in 1:48, but can be further improved with some crosskitting. In 1:32, the nearest you will get is the Hasegawa F-16A that represented the Full-Scale Development aircraft rather than the prototype, although it was painted in a similar red white and blue scheme. You can still find the kit on swap meets and second hand kit collectors. Jens
  8. I have experienced the same issues with fitting the wheel wells, but only on the starboard wing. Glued the walls to the upper wings, using the recesses and edges as a guide, and when it came to (dry)fit the wings, the starboard upper wing is approximately 1 mm further inboard than the lower wing. The reason for doing so is that the joins will be more visible on the upper wing than the lower wing. The wheel well walls now fit snugly against the ribs and stringers of the upper wings, and when I align the upper and lower wings so that the panel lines between upper and lower match exactly, one wheel well is 1 mm further inboard. If I assembled the wheel wells according to the instructions, would not the upper and lower wings then match up? Also I find that the bulkheads forward and aft of the cockpit need some sanding to reduce their widths as they will put pressure on the wheel wells and push the wings out so the inner wings end up with an anhedral whereas the inner section should be flat. Jens
  9. Yes, the helmet will be the most obvious feature, so if the helmet is the right timeframe, then I'm halfway there:) Jens
  10. Just been going through your thread again, and I too bought the Masters Navy pilot for my Tiger III adversary. Your comment made me look for PJ pilots, and I found this: https://www.pj-production.be/en/figures-1-32-/58-321106-us-navy-pilot-80-90-.html That's a suitable Navy pilot from the early 80s, isn't it? What differences would there be to the late 70s timeframe? I don't know the details of uniforms and equipment very well... Jens
  11. Nice soldering work there. For the price HpH are charging for the kit, a cast bronze nose gear wouldn't be too much to ask for in my opinion. Jen s
  12. Now then, before this gets totally off the rails; I decided to upload an avatar in keeping with the spirit of the group build and perhaps also the subect:) BTW, I found a photo of my subject in the Osprey series of books form the 80s on Aggressor Aircraft. That shows the headrest of this aircraft at the time was the original type. Been battling with the Black Box cockpit in between decalling the Mustang, but not much to show for it yet. Jens
  13. Radu's seatbelts are terriffic, and while you're at it, get the photoetched radiator matrices as well. The seatbelt instructions tell you NOT to use superglue. I used Gator's Grip and it worked really well with no visible glue smears at all. These are not painted. Jens
  14. You've never seen the movie "Top Gun"? Need to finish off an Airfix Mustang first before I can make much progress on this one. Jens
  15. A tongue-in-cheek remark about Hobby Boss' poor rendition of a YF-23, and to make it look like a proper YF-23 I feel like it's going to be a conversion:) Jens
  16. I was just going to convert the Hobby Boss YF-23 into a YF-23, but this is plastic butchery on a grand scale. Following with interest. Jens
  17. Alclad's armoured glass is a great product with no adverse effects on the clear parts, and even if you get some orange peel, you can micromesh and polish it to perfect clarity. Beware though that - in my experience - Alclad's other transparent colours; red, green, blue, yellow, smoke are far more aggressive on clear parts and will ruin the clarity of these parts. Jens
  18. If we're talking late 1944 period, I would think the cannon blisters would be the narrow type. Spotted the Barracuda wide cannon blisters in the aftermarket stash, and I believe they would have been superseded on the assembly line by then. If the aircraft you are modelling is in your signature, then MJ5XX would have been built during or after November 1943. The Tamiya exhaust stubs are a bit plain, so I would recommend the Quickboost Spitfire VIII exhausts (same as for the Mk IX). https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/QB32143 Other than that, I'm looking forward to the show and it might help me get my own large scale Spit off the shelf of doom. Jens
  19. Agree - the sanded wings and fuselage look so much better after removing the rivets and slimming those clunky trailing edges. Jens
  20. Thank you for your interest gents. The Black Box cockpit provides both the early (small) and later (large and boxy) headrest. Which would be appropriate for a 1977 vintage adversary? Jens
  21. OK, this predates Maverick and Goose by a few years. The original aircraft was lost in 1984, and the decals portray the aircraft as it was in 1977. The intention is to build "white 40" in three shades of blue from the Hasegawa kit I dug out of the loft. It has been started, but not by much: The wings are glued to the fuselage, the nose panels for the gun stuck in place, some Milliput to cover ejector pin marks, so less than 25% I'd say. Planning to use the Black Box cockpit and a pilot and mount it in flight, trying to wax some Tomcat crew's tail. The mouldings are sharp and the canopy very clear, so the resin cockpit will be an improvement here. Jens
  22. I'd like to see pictorial evidence of that. The axe "belongs" to 332 Sqn (AH-codes when they were using these), whereas the RF-5A(G)s were used by the RNoAF's sole photoreconnaissance unit; 717 Sqn (AZ-codes). I'd love to see a good F-5A family in 1:32 to. Jens
  23. Thank you for your replies regarding the wire aerial gentlemen. I have had a look through my library and pics online, but if the resolution/printing is not sufficient to show the thin wire, then that doesn't help me decide. The Spitfires lost the wire aerials before the P-51D got to Europe, so with that analogy I would imagine they wouldn't have it, but many illustrations like including it. I think I will leave it off. Thank you again. Jens
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