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Everything posted by jenshb

  1. Thanks for that Kevin. I did think it was rather marginal myself, and after a trip up the loft hatch, returned with a Hasegawa F-5E to do three shades of blue with a little help from Furball Decals: http://www.makettinfo.hu/forum/image.php?img_url=upload%2F201101%2F40ab_f-5e_159882_topgun_mar_77.jpg#image_213038 Jens
  2. I believe that colour is Oxford Blue. Xtracolor X023 or Humbrol HU104. Jens
  3. I seem to recall reading that the objective was to make it less visible (as has been mentioned) to make it less obvious as an aiming mark for enemy fighters. Jens
  4. Is this enough blue paint to be eligible? https://www.grc.nasa.gov/www/k-12/aerosim/LessonHS97/Hornet.html Built Hornet #3 many decades ago, but prefer the blue and gold scheme. If not, there's always Plan B... Jens
  5. :uckily, some police forces decided blue would be a better colour:) Jens
  6. I was joking that they should be making a 1:48th B-52 next... Jens
  7. I have used the MrColor levelling thinner for Xtracolor, Humbrol and WEM/Sovereign Colourcoats enamels, and have had no problems with any of those paints. Jens
  8. The 3D printed parts look very good. What material did you print them in? Another question; to ensure no "stepping" on the 3D printed control panels, wouldn't it be better to align them flat instead of at an angle? Jens
  9. Got both the Hasegawa F-16 and F-18 in the loft to be built as the prototypes they represent, but I also have a soft spot for the Hasegawa F-5E. Sharp moulding in spite of the raised panel lines. The details in the wheel wells aren't great, and the cockpit is a bit more spartan than what we are used to now. Still, the shapes look good to my eye. Jens
  10. Magic Sculpt is a better option than Milliput in my opinion to roll into thin sheets. The grain is finer, so can be rolled thinner and still be strong enough tomove it. Use either talcum powder or skin moisturiser to lubricate the surfaces and tools. Apply a little water to make the putty stick to itself or the substrate material. Jens
  11. Wow...ambitious to say the least. Jens
  12. Not quite. The larger stabs were extended on the leading edge as well as the trailing edge as well as the span. The best way is to check photos and take your references from "landmarks" on the fuselage. The trailing edges are easy of course... Jens
  13. Alclad Armoured Glass. It's fairly transparent, so you will need to give it a few coats on the inside of the windhshield. If it goes on with orange peel, you can level and polish the paint with micomesh to restore clarity. Also, it doesn't attack the plastic even if you give it a few wet coats. Jens
  14. For me, the most obvious discrepancy in the SH kit is the shape of the spinner - it is too bulged and possibly too short, and that messes up the shape of the front for me. Jens
  15. Complete with bucket of instant sunshine....nice! Jens
  16. Just gone through all these pages again. Now that your Spitfire is almost finished... Jens
  17. Between Pig's AT-38, Peter's Spitfire XIV and this S-3 I can't decide which is the awesomest build. They're all inspirational and evidence of what can be achieved with enough dedication and ingenuity and skill. Hat's off to you all gentlemen! Jens
  18. I think all knew him as "Mr.Spitfire", so in my mind, best Spitfire/Seafire would be the most appropriate. Jens
  19. Thank you very much for chipping in Tom. The aircraft I have set my mind on is option 3 on the Zotz sheet, so 1967 and the early version it is then. Remember your comment "H for Hotrod, J for Junk":) Jens
  20. Ah, so it is two different subtypes of the J57. I didn't spot that. Strange that Aires actually bothered with the differences without highlighting them. If they had made one suitable for the F-8E and the other for the F-8J then that would have made it less confusing. Thank you for clarifying gentlemen. Jens
  21. Picked up a Trumpeter 1:32 F-8E Crusader from the Essex Modellers' Show with the intention of turning it into an RF-8. I have checked for other aftermarket to add to the model, and I see that Aires do two resin exhaust ducts for this kit; 2094 and 2127. I can't see the difference between them in the photos. Which would be right for an RF-8G, or does it matter which one to get? Jens
  22. There are ready mix solutions available too... https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/colourcoats-sea-british/products/acrn27-roundel-red-bs538 https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/colourcoats-sea-british/products/acrn31-ww2-roundel-blue-oxford-blue-bs105 https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/colourcoats-sea-british/products/acrn21-raf-faa-yellow https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/X045 https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/X044 https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/X011 https://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/products/precisionmilitary/raf/14m118 https://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/products/precisionmilitary/raf/14m121 https://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/products/precisionmilitary/raf/14m122 All enamels and you may have to order them from the UK. Not sure what the postage charges will be though. However, there is this brand that will send orders by post: http://mrpaint.sk/farby/lietadla/RAF?product_id=184 http://mrpaint.sk/farby/lietadla/RAF?product_id=185 http://mrpaint.sk/farby/lietadla/RAF?product_id=186 Jens
  23. Would be terriffic if Tamiya were to release the kit as a Block 25/32 F-16D... Bet that would guarantee sales. Jens
  24. Third in favour of Dynavector. They are the Rolls-Royce of vacforms in my opinion. It will be easier to get a good result from the Dynavector kits than the similarly scaled Airfix TSR.2 and Trumpeter Hornet/Sea Hornet kits. Jens
  25. Yes, the Thunderbirds kit is OOP. I enquired about purchasing sprues for the NSI and P&W exhaust a few years ago, and they weren't available. Jens
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