Dave Roof

What do you need printed?

I print hollow fuel tanks vertically on a regular basis, and never have a problem with suction. While you may have more blemishes to clean up, adding more supports will more than likely solve your problem. Start with a large support with at least a .35 Upper Diameter. From there, add 8 supports slightly above center around the circumference of the part, then another 8 above those, offset. On these, you can probably go down to .30 Upper diameter, or even .25 depending on the size of your part. Then add 4 a bit higher, and another 4 even higher and offset. This will provide more stability to the part as the build plate raises and lowers.

It's not the settings, 'suction', or the orientation, it's not enough supports. When I get back in the office tomorrow morning, I'll post a couple images showing support suggestions.

You absolutely have me confused with someone else. I've never written a book, and my knowledge of the Devastator is less than zero.

Yeah, I know where they're from and I've seen their stuff. I don't buy Reskit or Quinta products. Simply a personal choice.

Thank you all, very much appreciate feedback. Not too concerned about adding a bunch of detail, and I do not buy Quinta or ResKit products, so both of those are out. I'll go with Meng out of the box.

Okay, my knowledge of all flavors of Apache is slightly above my grasp of quantum physics, and if the subject isn't Marine Corps related, I'm content with 'that looks about right'. However, given the two options of AH-64 Saraf available, which is the better choice?

I'm not buying that's legit footage. Not a single part of the airframe moves after the 'explosion'. No debris, wings and forward fuselage still intact.

I think I know which site you're referring to (if it's even the same one), but it doesn't work for everything.

As I don't know what your current settings are, it's difficult to suggest exposure settings for your print. I also don't use ABS resin, and not sure if anything needs to be adjusted for that type. However, might I suggest changing the orientation of your parts? This is how I support my 32nd fuel tank nose cones and never have any issues. A lot less clean up is needed after the supports are removed.

Not completely. Even with the cover on, if the printer is exposed to direct sunlight, it can and will cure the resin in the vat. Had it happen to two printers at my old house as they were on a shelf next to a window.

As long as there is no sunlight hitting the printer, you can leave resin in the vat for weeks, and even months. At one point last year, two of my printers went unused for close to 3 months (both Saturns). When I did start to use them again, all that was needed was a good stir of the resin. At the moment, my office/print room has no windows (it's the 'basement' behind what used to be the garage, which I've converted into a living space). However, when I do add a window, it will face the front of the house and will be under the front porch. Still no direct sunlight. When not using it for a bit, you can even cover it with a small towel to help keep more light out.

In the mean time return the unused resin from the vat back into the bottle though a filter This isn't really necessary. I run 14 printers almost every single day, for 8 to 12 hours each. I've been doing this four straight years now, and have never once did that. The only time I have ever emptied a vat is when a fail punctured the FEP, and fortunately, that's only happened twice. I literally just refill the vat after every print and have never had a problem. All that really does is increase your chance of making a mess. As far as cleaning goes, this is my process. I have an ultra sonic cleaner and 3 washing stations. All are filled with denatured alcohol (the fuel type by Klean Strip). ***If you have an ultrasonic cleaner with a heating element that can be turned off, turn it off. If it has a heating element that you can't turn off, don't use it with alcohol. The whole build plate (I use mostly Elegoo Mars 3 printers) gets held in the ultrasonic cleaner for 15 seconds. This is long enough to get most of the excess resin off the parts. Then, 2 minutes in the first wash station, 2 minutes in the second, and 1 minute 30 seconds in the last. Also, I typically clean two plates at a time. Remove the build plate and shake off into a large trash can (the alcohol evaporates within a couple minutes). Hit the build plate and parts with a hair dryer on high heat for a minute or so until all of the remaining alcohol is gone. Remove the parts from the build plate, remove the parts from the supports, then cure. Give the build plate a quick wipe with a paper towel (I use the thicker, blue automotive type), put back on printer and go again. *The heat from the hair dryer not only dries them faster, but it softens the supports/rafts making them easier to remove from both the parts and the build plate. This is what my parts look like every single time.

I very much appreciate the kind words, and the nod. Unfortunately, my reference material, and knowledge on the early AV-8A's is severely lacking. One thing I do know is they are not the same seats.

Unfortunately, that's not how it works. It is their intellectual property and they own the trademarks.