KUROK
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Posts posted by KUROK
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P-51 in 1/24 would be a money maker for sure....but a nice Stearman in that scale sure would be fun!
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18 hours ago, LSP_K2 said:
Adding the kit IP decals to the unmodified IP was probably unwise, but after numerous coats of Solvaset, it actually looks OK. IP on the real deal is rather bland and colorless anyway, so I think I can live with this.
I had the same experience with mine. I probably put 12 coats of Solvaset on it and it didn't really get it all down anyway....
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I didn't bring my DSLR this year because I wanted to enjoy the models instead of worrying about photography.
Well....I couldn't help myself and took some shots with my iPhone.
There is a Fisher Sea Fury that hopefully will inspire me to get to work on my kit.
Also saw a Kotare Spitfire that was immaculate.
Enjoy the photos:
Vince's photos from the show (click on photos to enlarge and again to zoom in)
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On 2/15/2024 at 3:16 AM, mozart said:
I have to agree 100% with Craig about MRP. I have heard both good and not so good things about MM paints and your experience does nothing to persuade me to use them.
MM paints require following their directions about adding the poly additive for strength. The OP did not have the additive on hand so the masking removed paint. This is not the fault of the paint because they warn you about this.
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On 2/11/2024 at 10:19 AM, geedubelyer said:
Ocean grey applied.
This is Mission models (MMP-093 Ocean grey RAF WWII Mid/Late) paint straight out of the bottle.
It went on well and has settled to a smooth, matt finish.
I bought myself some white tack in readiness for the dark green cammo but I'll need to let this harden for a while before I begin masking.
Gorgeous paint work. Looks smoooooooth!
One thing to mention: You said you sprayed Mission Models straight from the bottle? Did you use a few drops of the poly additive for strength? If not beware it may be fragile for masking over! MM paints produced good results for me but you have to go "by the book" on this brand.
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I grew up with King's Hobby in Austin. When I moved to Atlanta, there was AAA Hobbies. When they made their last move, the guy said it was getting rough because Hobbytown USA was cutting into business (and of course online sales). AAA is gone...
So Hobbytown is the only place left in Atlanta for plastic kits/supplies. Fortunately, the guys that run the store are builders and the keep the model section well stocked. I asked if they could match internet prices and they said 'no'. I still buy kits from them because I want to keep them going. That Hobbytown does well because they don't specialize in just one thing. They do R/C, puzzles, trains. That seems to be the business model that works here in Atlanta.
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On 1/15/2024 at 3:44 AM, Battletweety said:
The Zoukei-Mura kit has been designed to be built with a complete interior in the fuselage, wings and engines so its not like a typical fuselage that comes in two halves. Rather its a series of panels that are laid over the frame and so comes with its own challenges in trying to line everything up.
I was wondering if you thought the fuselage panels can be put together to avoid some of the fit issues you dealt with. My plan would be to do that and put each fuselage side on really in a traditional "half".
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Wow awesome work! Exciting project as well!
Question: Is one wing longer than the other? I think that is how Macchi dealt with torque rather than offset the vertical tail.
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Lately I'm using two types of glue for canopies.
One is Gorilla Glue Clear. It is very strong and has a lot of working time. It dries to the hardness of hard rubber. It is very strong and can etch plastic so I make sure to wipe off excess but like I said you have plenty of working time for this.
Another one I'm using is a UV cure glue I got on Amazon...some off-brand. It is expensive but you don't need a lot for each model application in general.
I it also strong and you don't have to worry about fogging like superglue.
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A little progress here and there. Workbench time is hard to come by lately.
I improved the kit gun sight with a thinner piece of clear. It was attached with UV cure glue.
The clear lens was also done with UV glue. It's become a handy part of my tools.
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beautiful, smooth paint work. Just thin enough you can see the pre-shade.
- Tolga ULGUR and Martinnfb
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You mentioned the guy had a large stash. Perhaps he was looking at it and it got missed at the time of the raffle? Who knows?
I also recommend asking him privately to have it back. Make sure it's documented as in an email.
If he fails to give it back then you can forward your email to the club leaders (if you want to).
I've been through something similar. We did an online "secret Santa".
Everyone got paired up and each was to send a gift of about $50 worth. I did ...but the other guy didn't and I got crap.
So I'll never do that again.
I sent him a Wand Co. TOS Star Trek phaser. At the time they sold for $50. Now out of production, they are worth hundreds.
He sent me a painted solid resin Trek TNG cricket phaser that was and is worthless...
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I'm bummed that DVD.com under Netflix closed. I was able to get disks of movies that Netflix didn't stream.
Example: we could get the Marvel superhero movies on disk without having to get Disney+ subscription to stream it.
Will look into RedBox now.
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Hasegawa P-40N
in Works in Progress
Posted
You are correct! It is often shown as interior green but photos have shown it is the exterior color.