mhorina

IMHO the Hasegawa kits are just fine for my purposes.  I bought a Revell kit simply because was cheap and I wanted to have a look at it.  I doubt I will ever build it.

'D' thanks for the link to the earlier color discussion.
KEV sent you a PM
 
       Mike Horina

Everyone does things different. While I used the Aires wheel bay I didn't use the Aires Mounting holes for the landing gear. There is a minimal space to fill between the Aires part and the kits sockets for the gear. I found it easy to install doing it that way. But every one has there own way of doing things. Hope this may be of help to someone.
       Mike Horina

Harold,
 Please put me on the list for 'the whole ball of wax' also. That's the T28 stuff.
        Mike Horina

Harold,
   Anything you would do is very much appreciated. Not only because of the workmanship you do but the outstanding fit of the items you do due.
      Mike Horina

According to the picture posted above of MT 423 it appears to have the 'Erla' version starboard gun cover with 2 bulges. This new kit release then appears to have all the kit specific parts from the G-6 and G-14 kits.
    Mike Horina

According to the picture posted above of MT 423 it appears to have the 'Erla' version starboard gun cover with 2 bulges. This new kit release then appears to have all the kit specific parts from the G-6 and G-14 kits.
    Mike Horina

Harold,
   Anything you would do is very much appreciated. Not only because of the workmanship you do but the outstanding fit of the items you do due.
      Mike Horina

We are working on this project but waiting on the clips between the top and bottom rail, we are upgrading all our rockets (thanks Tim) so as soon as we have something
it will be on LSP first.
 
Bob 

I'm in
      Mike Horina

I'm in
      Mike Horina

One item in the P-51D/K Tamiya kit that is in no other kit that I am aware of are the 110 gallon teardrop shaped under wing gas tanks. And while they are included in the kit the wooden sway braces used with them are not included. Mike West has/ had these tanks and the sway braces in his list.
      Mike Horina 

I'm in
      Mike Horina

Luckey Models $135 and change arrived today at 11:30 AM. 20 miles west of Chicago.
     Mike Horina 

Luckey Models $135 and change arrived today at 11:30 AM. 20 miles west of Chicago.
     Mike Horina 

Today we are seeing a surge in 1/32 kits. HKM, KH, Hobby Boss, Trumpeter, Revell, Hasegawa, Tamiya, WNW and Fly are all turnung out better and better kits of [more-or-less] different subjects from all eras. That said, it seems that each release brings a fire storm of criticism for us. We have members who, over the years, have produced finished kits made from such abortions [by today's standards] as the early Revell kits that pass muster even to the "torch and ruler" types. Seems to me our criticisms are misplaced. Often the manufacturers goo too far in trying to replicate detail, the KH P-39 being the perfect example. I would rather have a "buttoned-up" version with extra parts provided for the super detailers. Maybe the approach ZM is hinting at for their FW-190 series (a basic and an advanced kit for each) is the correct answer. Hasegawa makes basic "buttoned up" kits and I like the simplicity. Kitty Hawk on the other hand is trying for ultimate detail that, while extensive frustrates both the detailers and the basic modelers. For example, the engine sub assemblies on the KH P-39 can drive you to drink especially the exhaust stubs {imagine if it had been a P-400). At the other extreme, the mis-alignment of the engine cowling on the Hasegawa P-47 are inexcusable. Still, a finished Hasegawa Raiden and a finished ZM Radien look pretty much the same on the outside.
 
Having gotten that rant off my chest. I offer kudos to KH for attempting to produce and extremely detailed and mostly accurate P-39. I would encourage them to do their homework in the future and to think through their target market. I quit building first 1/72 and later 1/48 kits because, as I approach my mid 70s, the eyes aren't as good nor the fingers as steady as they used to be. The sub assemblies on that kit are like 1/72 kits on their own.
 
I think I'll stick to photography in the future, it's far more forgiving.
 
Cheers
 
Dick

Matt,
   I thought that most 109 Erla G-10s were delivered with the small wheel well bumps. And if you have both of the Revell 109 releases and some Hase kits there are about 5 or 6 different rudder designs to choose from and both sizes of ww bumps in the Revell kits.
   Mike Horina

Matt,
   I thought that most 109 Erla G-10s were delivered with the small wheel well bumps. And if you have both of the Revell 109 releases and some Hase kits there are about 5 or 6 different rudder designs to choose from and both sizes of ww bumps in the Revell kits.
   Mike Horina

Big USAF on wings may be a theater marking during the Korean War to easily identify US aircraft. Migs only had stars but Sabres and Migs both had swept back wings. Only my opinion .

Tony's explanation probably accurate for the wing center section on account that's where the fuel tanks where located.
           Mike Horina

This is a comparison of the new Revell Fw 190F-8 against the Hasegawa Fw 190F-8 so folks can decide which kit they prefer. Anything questionable was checked against photographs and other information to determine which kit (if either) got it right.
 
Obviously, the full engine and separate control surfaces of the Revell kit are big plusses. And, the low price of the Revell kit in the US makes it hard to pass up. But, not everyone builds their models with everything hanging open. And, elsewhere in the world, the new Revell kit costs almost as much as the Hasegawa.
 
This is not intended to be an in-depth scrutiny of either kit's accuracy. Rather, it is a direct comparison from a modeler's standpoint in an effort to clear up some of the myths, misconceptions and hype already associated with this new kit. Also, these were just the things that I was looking at. Your mileage may differ. If so, please feel free to document it and share it here.
 
The Hasegawa kit's overall accuracy is widely reputed to be quite good, with the notable exceptions of prop, spinner and late upper fuselage gun cover shapes (along with some other, minor things). This is why the Hasegawa kit was chosen as the baseline for checking out the new Revell kit. Overall engineering, shapes and sizes are very similar between the two kits - almost to the point of the parts being interchangeable. Almost. The following images are being posted merely to illustrate the differences between the two kits so that the buyer can make up his/her own mind.
 
Starting at the front:

Updated spinner information HERE.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Four more posts to come as the spam filter allows...

Rog,
  Only problem why you can't just add the guns is the lower wing has none of the ejection slots or shape for the different panels that have the ejection slots on/in the gun panel. This release is mainly to build a ground support machine. Of course if you rob a Hase kit of its lower gun panels and the proper rack for a drop tank you then could use all the bombs and thier racks for the Revell to make a Hase 190A-8 kit into a 190 F-8
    Mike Horina

Jerry,
 Try a piece of sprue under the cockpit to push the fuselage and wing fairings out a touch. This should eliminate a large gap.
        Mike Horina

guys Jennings is right
 
for anyone who has not seen the Amur stuff in the flesh, it would be like comparing a Tamiya uber kit to a Revell one; they each have their niche, but are not in the same class
 
the comparison with Alleycat would be a similar type comparison
 
Amur is the best resin i have seen for kit part correction sets - i put them equal to Henri Daehne's propellers

Hi,
 
as requested here's a post intended to show it is possible to correct the gun troughs of the Trumpy kit.
 
You simply have to cut first the rear edge as showed in this comparison with the early G cowling.
 

 
Then, use round files to extend the gun trough profile near the front. Do this for both sides and you should get this:
 

 
The next picture shows a comparison with the Alleycat part intended to correct the Revell kit. It eases the job to have a comparable but correct part to do the correction even if you use scale plans and pictures!
 

 
Note that it is not impossible to adapt the Alleycat part but this is not really easy as the cowling structure is completely built in a different way and the cross-section is not fully identical. Moreover, you are losing the benefit of the engine. I think that the correction of the kit part is in fact easier.
 
I also added this picture to show the aftermarket items stored in my Trumpeter Me109G6 box. This shows that even if you want to correct a lot of things with aftermarket items, it is possible to do this for a not so expensive cost.
 

 
Hope this helps
 
Thierry