Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Hi guys Well it's been nearly a month now since my last post what with family staying and this and that etc etc( you know the drill...getting in the way of modelling!)...but finally I'm now back at dealing with this B17G! ...and it was time to tackle the complicated ball turret hanging system!.......After looking at loads of confusing photos of the task at hand I decided that the only way to replicate it was to try and break it down into small stages.....wasn't going to be easy ...but then that's the challenge I guess! So I started with the frame work and the bits and bobs at the bottom that fits onto the turning mechanism above the ball turret...here's a few photos...... I was about to attach the upright tube ( plastic flag stick that luckily was the correct scale!) when I noticed that I would have to adjust the walkway that goes around the turret as it was too large and I would never be able to continue with the hanging structure!.....annoying as I had to take of the glued floor carefully off and then re shape it and then replace it and make good!...any way after that problem was solved I had the next problem of repeatedly placing the top section of the fuselage.... as a dry run fit ....to see if the tube aligned up correctly with the ceiling connection!....that I have to say took some time and patience!...of course in the process I knocked of the radio ops seat and some radio stacks from the radio room floor!...I have left them off for the time being whilst I deal with this nightmare! Once that was all sorted I gave this section some paint after first placing some cables and wiring on....here are some photos...... Now......I could have left it there!.......but I think you know me by now The B17G had a system for carrying extra ammunition that fed automatically into the ball turret....after looking at photos I decided to at least have a go at it and if it was too complicated then I could just not bother with them. Basically it was two ammunition cans suspended above the ball and bolted to the frame work.Being two cans they of course had to be symmetrical...and that is something I find difficult to do...especially the round feeds that were like S- shaped channels! The rounds were made by cutting small gauge wire to size (at least 50!!) and the glued in between 2 pieces of the S-shaped feeds.....some of the rounds could be seen through inspection ports....hence bothering with making the rounds! Any way here are the pretty rough looking examples of the ammunition cans and feed chutes....will look better in situ and with paint on....I hope! It was time to attach the ammo cans to the hanging structure....... The next task was nearly impossible to do and that was to make the lower supports for the cans.....it took ages but got there in the end!.......all I had to do now was to paint it all..... OK So that is as far as I have got so far. I still have to make a couple of ammunition belts and the oxygen tank for the turret and then I can think of closing the two halves in preparation for the external detail! I have to say although challenging this part of the build was ......I thoroughly enjoyed myself! Till the next post....take care guys! Fozzy
  3. I suspect that in the case of the USPS that low volume shippers are being hit hard to make up for sweet heart deals given to high volume shippers like of Amazon.
  4. Thanks Thierry! The link posted above resulted in nothing. Stein M
  5. Yeah shipping costs, taxes, exchange rates. Shopping OS is far less attractive. It’s like globalisation is out and isolationism back in.
  6. Well, there are not a lot of options to solve that. As the angle is incorrect, either you modify the top side, either the bottom one. Obviously, it is always better to modify the bottom one as it is far less visible. So, here is the process: - create a thick cardboard template with a 167.5° angle, - put it over the middle of the chord of the main wing and fix it with tape (the angle root must be located at the level of the wing upper hinge), - dry fit the external section with the main one and progressively and cautiously sand the lower edge of both joining parts. It is important to do that on both sides to avoid removing too much of the hinge on one side. This is not as difficult as it looks as far as you use a template and do not rush the work. Hth Thierry
  7. Personally, wing panel lines are insignificant compared to the windscreen and cowl differences.
  8. Well put ! WNW’s oil canning is potentially a real game changer for metal skinned a/c.
  9. Thanks CPJ, Yes, I'm stocking up on etched brass and A/M parts for upcoming projects at the moment but it's a brave new world as far as the new technologies in model-making and quick turn-around parts coming on stream in recent years. I'm wondering if the old hands-on skills ( demonstrated here and else-where by some other very talented people on this site) will fade in time and into obscurity with the new push-button modelling renditions done in a micron of the time and arguably more accurate as well - compared to hours and hours - days - weeks - months - years!... of the good old-fashioned hands-on modelling. Don't get me wrong - I think the new technologies ( 3-D printers, CAD design etc) becoming more accessible now for making new model parts - is fantastic. Pip
  10. Today
  11. This is my first time doing an interior, the ones i’ve done before were R/C. I think some people do cutaways, most leave some sort of removable panels. I plan on having some panels so they come off, but most of the detail will be hidden away. I’m happy knowing it’s there though. This has been a monster of a build, especially with all the corrections and scratchbuilding. The turret is a whole project on it’s own, and one that will wait till I’ve built a few planes!
  12. Thanks Muchly Kev! I'm itching to get these parts into resin soon!... it's a pity I've got a few coals in the fire - as far as other projects going on at the same time! But I'm determined to make some inroads here. Pip
  13. Yep Thanks Craig - Busy cockpit it certainly is! .. and it's keeping me busy too! Pip
  14. Will any of these threads help in your search. Showing results for 'F-4 Phantom dihedral' in topics. - Large Scale Planes https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/search/&q=F-4 Phantom dihedral&type=forums_topic
  15. And what did you think of the book overall? I found it a good read.
  16. Looks all good, perfect scratch-building on those cameras!
  17. You are one gifted modeler, Eric. Fantastic presentation. Sincerely, Mark
  18. I have to say, this kit looks really nice. I can't afford it, but I can dream about it lol!
  19. Hi guys, The instrument cowl is done, and interesting to have the original part next to it for comparison. Hope it looks okay to you, because I'm rather new to 1/32 scale, and not so sure whether it's enough detail or did I just stop adding before I go crazy...lol Cheers
  20. Here are some more photos. First, a photo of the tail wheel of 'White 48' when it was at Namur. You can see the very dark color. Compare it to the black boots of the solider. (Source: Hideki Noro, LO+ST).: Another example of this dark tail wheel fork can be found on Fw 190 A-8 Yellow 8 captured at Ansbach (Source: http://www.354thpmfg.com/galleries_wwlouie_pt5.html): Then the photo of the recovered Fw 190 D-9 tail wheel fork from lake Schwerin (Source: http://www.daedalus-berlin.de/Fw190D9_fahrwerk.htm): And another example of such a dark brownish finish can be found on the Fw 190 at the Belgrad museum (unfortunately, I could only find a low quality shot; Source: http://axis.classicwings.com): I tend to believe that these dark looking forks were not painted, but had this dark brown metallic surface finish. I assume that it was some kind of protective layer that was electrochemically created, but I am not an expert on surface treatment technologies in WWII. Any thoughts?
  21. Cool, thanks very much Ben! I'll look into it. I'm sure Tim or Peter can provide some advice on the subject. Cheers, Craig
  22. That is really good, well done. Looks well-used, but still airworthy.
  23. Just to have an idea of the work in progress for correcting the issues
  24. Beautiful decal sheet and interesting options! Kabuki-tape is the perfect material for the masks, never liked any vinyl masks! But, 1/24 is too big for me, I´m sorry to say... IF you scale this down to 1/32 I´ll buy it in a heartbeat ! I have a Trumpeter -5N (1/32) on the bench and a new sheet with decals/masks for a more appealing option is really needed. I really like the #64 with it´s white and yellow markings.... Stefan
  25. you sure? the oilcanning effect is a result of the stresses in the metal due to rivetting. With a thin metal skin it cannot be avoided. not to be confused with the stresses while the aircraft is in flight where the dihedral increases due to aerodynamic forces and the resulting "creases" in the wingskins. The fuselage while on the ground sags because of the weight. I had the pleasure to see Lancaster NX611 yesterday and there is oilcanning everywhere. Also a wish came true when I sat in the pilot seat. Great inspiration for building the new kits. Cees
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...