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George

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  1. For those P-39/P-400 Airacobras assigned to the Southwest Pacific Theater of Operations (PTO) and painted RAF Dark Green/RAF Dark Earth/N-41 Olive Drab/over Duck Egg Blue, was their camouflage pattern RAF pattern B? Were any P-39/P-400 Airacobras painted RAF camouflage Pattern A? I am aware that some P-39s/P-400s were painted N-41/ANA 613 over N-43. I ask because I purchased an Eduard 1/48 Airacobra P-400 (Profile Pack).
  2. Good Afternoon. I checked some of my Squadron Signal Guides and it would appear the struts and wheel hubs are silver. Thanks, George
  3. Hi Dana: Thanks. Were the main and tail wheel wells also yellow zinc chromate or Glossy Sea Blue? George
  4. Hi John1. Thanks. I never heard of the cowling interior and landing gear being painted gray for F4U-1Ds. F4U-1Ds were late war Corsairs. The reference guides I have (Squadron Walkaround/In Action) indicate both were Gloss Sea Blue (approximately FS 15042). It may sound like an anomaly to paint them gray.
  5. Hi Matt. Thank you had a belated Thanksgiving! What would be best ratio of Mr Color thinner to GX100 and GX114? 1:1? 2:1? 3:1? All the best, George
  6. Hi Chukw: Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear ALC 600 sounds great. It appears to pre-thinned for the correction composition. I'll check for the Aqua Flat. Thanks! G-Man
  7. Ivanmoe: Thanks. You are absolutely correct about TS clears coming out hot and deform/decompose the decals. All the best, George
  8. I typically use Tamiya Flat Clear and Gloss Clear Spray for decal surface preparation and the final coat for my scale model aircraft. I also have AK Interactive flat and gloss varnish which could be used. However, what is your recommendation especially for the one best kits ever made-the Promodeler 1/48 SB2C-4 Helldiver?
  9. It seems that the propeller tips of early World War Two USN aircraft were red, yellow and blue. However, photographic evidence indicates that the propeller tips of early war USMC aircraft appear to be yellow like their USAAC/USAAF counterparts. Were the propeller tips painted at the factory or the field? Did the USN and USMC paint their propeller tips differently? I'm asking because I recently purchased early war USMC F4F Wildcat model. Thanks.
  10. I recently purchased this beautiful kit and wanted confirmation regarding the color of the interior portions (wheel wells, tail wheel well, and cowling) that were partially or wholly exposed. My research indicates these areas were the same color of exterior-Gloss Sea Blue (FS15042). The interior color not exposed was interior green (FS34151) including the cockpit, wing interiors, fuselage fore and aft of the cockpit. Sound good? Thanks, George
  11. Gents: All good responses. I haven't tried bamboo picks. All the best, George
  12. Scenario: I'm building a vintage Monogram 1/48 SBD Dauntless from 1974. I masked and airbrushed the front and rear canopies with Mission Models M-485 (Non Specular Blue Gray). After removing the Montex Masks, some acrylic paint found itself underneath the masks. I scraped most of the excessive paint with toothpicks but some remains in the corners of the frames. I thought about using a bent paperclip but that will scratch the canopies. If I use windex, the paint on the frames will be removed What would you suggest if you were in the same situation? Has anyone tried using toothpaste?
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