1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 White 12

[Hoss FL]

Finally made some more progress on White 12. The HGW positive rivets have now been applied. No major issues.  

 

 

The rivets will be barely noticeable on the painted areas until buffing, but they should pop on the NMF area underneath. 

 

 

One minor issue is that the decal solution (Mr. Mark Setter and/or Mr. Mark Softer in some cases) in some places left marks on the surface of the primer/preshading that are almost impossible to remove without removing the rivets. I don't think they'll be noticeable after paint and weathering but it's a watch out.  The closeup below shows some decal solution spots mixed in with the preshading spatter template pattern. 

 

 

 

I like the density of the pattern on the wing top surfaces. 

 

 

 

 

The fuselage areas look good too. 

 

 

 

That's all for now. Thanks for looking. I plan to paint the RV band next. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MikeMaben]

[Jaro]

Looks very promissing!

One day I have to try HGW rivets.

[Tolga ULGUR]

Very nice 

[Rampenfest]

Looking good, and love those rivets!

[Hoss FL]

Thanks all for the comments. Progress continues. Main camo painting is now complete. 

Here are a couple of shots after painting and masking the NMF under the wings, the RV band and the RLM76 control surfaces. The blue-green version of RLM76 has also been applied to the fuselage areas. 

 

The following shots show various angles fresh after painting complete and masking removed. I have not micro meshed the surfaces yet to smooth the paint and expose rivets in various areas. I'll do that in the morning. 

 

The overall sequence was primarily my standard Luftwaffe fighter method:  

1. RV band
2. Underside of wings, stabs and fuselage NMF, RLM76
3. Upper surfaces of wings and stabs RLM81/RLM82 (fuselage masked)
4. Upper fuselage RLM81/RLM82, including mottles on the tail (wings masked)

 

The wings were masked using the floating mask method - paper cut outs elevated ~1mm above the surface with little tape rolls. 

The fuselage was painted freehand. 

 

Post-fading and shading was applied to all colors. My approach was to paint a very thin coat of the base color, followed by highlights and shadow areas using variations of the base color, all the time leaving the preshading clearly visible. The final coat is a blending layer of the base color applied such that the preshading is barely visible and the highlights and shadows are softened as appropriate. 

 

 

I'm happy with the way the RV band turned out - nice and crisp. The rivet detail is visible as small bumps below the painted surfaces and pops nicely on the NMF under the wings. 

 

 

Mr. Color lacquers were used for all colors. Bluegreen RLM 76 is Duck Egg Green, RLM 82 is straight from the bottle, and RLM 81 is a mix of RLM 81 and Red Brown in a 5:2 ratio. 

 

That's it for now. After any necessary clean up and micromeshing, markings are next -- I'll be using masks for the main markings and stencils and decals for the white 12 and work number. 

Thanks for stopping by. 

[MikeMaben]

excellent progress Jim 

[Hoss FL]

On 4/9/2023 at 12:52 AM, MikeMaben said:

excellent progress Jim 

Thanks Mike. 

[Hoss FL]

The markings are now complete so I figured I'd post some closeups. 

 

(Now this isn't as jaw-dropping as Duke's BMW 801 engine photos, but it's the best I can share for now.) 

 

The Hakenkreuz and work number are decals from Eagle Editions and the stencils were painted with masks from 1 Man Army. These are amazing. The horizontal stripe was masked with household Tamiya tape. 

 

 

The white 12 is a decal from Eagle Editions (still drying) and the rest of the markings (black cross and stencils) are painted with 1 Man Army masks. Very nice stuff. Some of the rivet detail is also visible. 

 

 

More masked stencils and rivet detail. 

 

Here's some rivet detail around the nose. 

 

And here's some rivet detail around the gun cover. 

 

The stencils are all 1 Man Army masks and the white cross was originally a Maketar vinyl mask. Please remind me to NEVER use vinyl masks again. The masks were distorted, as often happens with vinyl masks due to heat or age or whatever, but I decided to try them anyway, figuring they wouldn't look too bad. Wrong. They looked awful. So I manually re-masked them with Tamiya tape and repainted. Kabuki tape masks all the way from now on. Some of the wing rivet detail is also visible. 

 

Here's the rivet detail around the gun trough area. 

 

I wanted to share some "before" photos of the rivet areas and then I'll post some "after" photos when buffing and sanding to expose the rivets is complete. 

 

That's all for now. Thanks for stopping by. 

[LSP_Kevin]

That looks great!

 

Kev

[duke_]

6 hours ago, Hoss FL said:

The markings are now complete so I figured I'd post some closeups. 

 

(Now this isn't as jaw-dropping as Duke's BMW 801 engine photos, but it's the best I can share for now.) 

 

The Hakenkreuz and work number are decals from Eagle Editions and the stencils were painted with masks from 1 Man Army. These are amazing. The horizontal stripe was masked with household Tamiya tape. 

 

 

The white 12 is a decal from Eagle Editions (still drying) and the rest of the markings (black cross and stencils) are painted with 1 Man Army masks. Very nice stuff. Some of the rivet detail is also visible. 

 

 

More masked stencils and rivet detail. 

 

Here's some rivet detail around the nose. 

 

And here's some rivet detail around the gun cover. 

 

The stencils are all 1 Man Army masks and the white cross was originally a Maketar vinyl mask. Please remind me to NEVER use vinyl masks again. The masks were distorted, as often happens with vinyl masks due to heat or age or whatever, but I decided to try them anyway, figuring they wouldn't look too bad. Wrong. They looked awful. So I manually re-masked them with Tamiya tape and repainted. Kabuki tape masks all the way from now on. Some of the wing rivet detail is also visible. 

 

Here's the rivet detail around the gun trough area. 

 

I wanted to share some "before" photos of the rivet areas and then I'll post some "after" photos when buffing and sanding to expose the rivets is complete. 

 

That's all for now. Thanks for stopping by. 

that's a beauty Jim! just perfect.!

[Troy Molitor]

I really like the paint on this one Jim.  Nice!

[Furie]

Very nice painting, very clean, very neat, it promises a final model of beauty!
Bravo !

[Sasha As]

Very neat work!

[Hoss FL]

White 12 is now complete. Since the last update, I weathered the model and assembled all the remaining bits.  

 

Specifically for weathering, I added some chipping effects with acrylics using a fine brush and some sponges. A gloss coat was applied, followed by a panel line wash. After a flat coat, I wet sanded the entire surface using 8000 grit micro mesh to get a nice smooth final surface. I then applied a brown-black acrylic mix by airbrush to key panel lines and added exhaust stains, and staining from shell ejector ports. Finally, I added some chips and scratches with a fine silver pencil in high wear areas. 

 

Assembly of the final parts was straightforward. This was followed by a final flat coat, some clean up and painting of final details. 

 

Here's a link to the final photos. Thanks for looking!