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Tamiya A6M2 Zero-Sen (Rabaul base)


Fanes

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At the beginning of this GB there was a lack of Zeros, so I started looking into the subject.

The Tamiya kit was set early (even though I got mine 2 days ago), since I wanted an easy build - at least compared to the struggle with a Revell Spitfire..

The dark green over grey schemes of the A6M5 aren't my cup of tea. So an A6M2 in green-brwon-grey (J3) was basically set.

The standard ones - Pearl Harbour etc. - have been so many times, that I started looking for something else.

During my research I stumbled uppon the small scale kit from eduard with a field applied camo:
82212_03.jpg

 

Eduard being eduard, doesn't provide any useful information to the subject and I couldn't find any pictures in my references and the internet.

So, that's a nono.

Talking about references: I have "A6M Zero Aces 1940-43" from Nick Millman as a general ressource and the Pacific Profiles No.5 for more specific stuff. I plan to get Nick Millman's early Zero guide, too.

Thumbing though the Pacific Profiles, I found an interesting one:

U7fHMrBl.jpg?1

 

Profile 70 is a Nakajima built A6M2 from 252 Kokutai with a quite unusual camo, that gets denser from front to aft.

I guess, I'm set..

 

What material will be used?

  • of course the beautiful Tamiya kit (my first)
  • a Quinta cockpit set, that came with it
  • eventually some parts from the Montex mask set (was ion the box)
  • more likely: masks cut on my Silhouette
  • eduard stencil decals
  • eventually a set of HGW seatbelts
  • resin wheels - are there any for the A6M2?

 

Bn2njUhl.jpg

 

That's it for now. I'm off to buy the necessary colours and looking for a set of resin wheels.

 

Cheers

Joachim

 

 

Edited by Fanes
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You should be able to turn out a very beautiful Zero with the things you have Joachim.  I built the Tamiya kit a few years ago and the only two things that gave me pause were to decals (which you have covered with the masks) and the landing gear; which I modified to be less "toy like".  I have the same profile book you do and the profile you selected is very fetching; again it should make for a beautiful end product.  I'll be following along to vicariously enjoy your work.

 

Ernest

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On 1/16/2023 at 9:25 AM, Greif8 said:

You should be able to turn out a very beautiful Zero with the things you have Joachim.  I built the Tamiya kit a few years ago and the only two things that gave me pause were to decals (which you have covered with the masks) and the landing gear; which I modified to be less "toy like".  I have the same profile book you do and the profile you selected is very fetching; again it should make for a beautiful end product.  I'll be following along to vicariously enjoy your work.

 

Ernest

Fair point with the landing gear, Ernest. Most builders seem to opt for the Aires resin wheel wells.
My plan is to use the Tamiya parts and assemble everything fixed without any of the movable features.
We'll see how that will work out.

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  • 1 month later...

Oh boy, it's been a while since I intended to start this build.

Unfortunately, every single time I opened the box to start a sudden loss of mojo kicked in and I just put the box back onto the shelf.

After being sick at home for a week, the motivation was finally there and work began on the engine.

I intend to leave the cowling on, so this will be no super detailing but just the visible stuff.

 

The Tamiya kit is lacking the prominent baffles on the cylinder heads. If you want to display the full engine, eduard is your friend.

I simpoly needed the front part. Since cutting 14 identical items from styrene sheet isn't my strength, I resorted to my Silhouette cutter

and here we go:

 

3Fgsz5Jl.jpg

 

The front row recieved some pipes and lines from copper wire as well. The rear row won't, because it'll be virtually invisible and I really want to finish this build in time.


xemn7W9l.jpg

 

Another lacking part is the ignition distribution ring. Tamiya provides 7 thin and 4 thick stubs and that's it.

Since one does need to add 14 ignition leads and 4 lines to the magnetos in the back, that's not going to cut it.

I shamelessly copied Alex' approach with the sort brass tubes (0.6 mm and 1.0 diameter).

I made a start, but had to leave it there because the work is really fiddly and my concentration isn't on par yet again.


1lJifuVl.jpg

 

I hope to keep this thread rolling and will show a painted engine in the next update.

 

Joachim

 

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Good to see you at the bench again Joachim!  As I am sure zou are experiencing in München the weather is poor enough the last several days to make outside activities no so fun here in Bayern.  You have done some 1st Class scratchbuilding on the engine, adding the scratchbuilt baffles and brass tubing really improved it.

 

Grüße,

Ernest

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23 hours ago, Greif8 said:

Good to see you at the bench again Joachim!  As I am sure zou are experiencing in München the weather is poor enough the last several days to make outside activities no so fun here in Bayern.  You have done some 1st Class scratchbuilding on the engine, adding the scratchbuilt baffles and brass tubing really improved it.

 

Grüße,

Ernest

Indeed, it's rather bench than cycling weather. Although we had a nice and sunny afternoon yesterday, I chose to proceed with the ignition.

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4 minutes ago, Fanes said:

Indeed, it's rather bench than cycling weather. Although we had a nice and sunny afternoon yesterday, I chose to proceed with the ignition.

 

Hi Joachim, here in the Oberpfalz it has been lightly snowing, windy and overcast for several days now.  I do not ride if visibility is poor or there is a good chance of ice patches on the riding surface - I like to reduce the risk of being hit by a car or crashing to a minimum.  I hope the weather returns to how it was for a few days last week soon!  On the plus side, like you I am getting some time at the bench.

 

Grüße,

Ernest

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  • 3 weeks later...

Although it was defintely not that much good days for outdoor activities, progress on the Zero is slow.

There's another project (a new roadbike) which needs time for the assembly as well.

 

On the plus side, the ignition distributor is finished, even though it took many more hours than anticipated.

Here it is wired up with all 28 lines in their small brass tubes. Of course I had to redrill most of the tubes because of the burrs from cutting.

Additionally some of them pinged off from the bench into oblivion, but I guess the effort is worth the result.

 

p2dslgZl.jpg

 

Afterwards I apllied a primer (the Tamiya one for metal) to hopefully increase paint adhesion.

This was followed by a gloss black base for all the engine parts and for some other parts, that are ready for paint, too.


oJyP8apl.jpg

 

I hope you're still on board and that this wasn't the most boring update so far :D

 

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Hi Joachim, I think the ignition harness / and the rest of the engine looks great.  I find that the Tamiya metal primer works pretty well.  

 

As an aside I rode on my gravel bike today and got caught in one of the damn small storm cells that began passing through in the early afternoon.  The last 25 kms of the ride was unpleasent to say the least.  I will be glad when spring finally arrives for good!

 

Ernest

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There has been a lot of babysteps on the past days - all not overly photo worthy.

But now the engine is completely painted and has recieved a pin wash mixed from oils (still need to clean them up).

Up now nothing has been glued. It's just a dry fir for you mates:

 

qPEpoPtl.jpg

 

While the oil colur is curing and use the time until I can apply a clear coat, I turned to other small stuff.

For example the spinner and prop.

Both were painted on a gloss black base. The spinner recieved a thin coat of Tamiya lacquer Silver and the prop blades were done with Alclad Duraluminum.

Oncy fully dry, the rear facing sides will get their dark brown colour onto a layer of hairspray to be able to chip the paint off.

I guess, the Rabaul based Zero-Sens saw some heavy action and lots of dirt and dust.

 

BAI8gaml.jpg

 

Speaking about land based airplanes:

Many of them flew without radios to save weight and since they weren't working properly.

The Tweak List for the kit calls out what to leave off and one thing is the RDF reciever.

Since its shelf has a lot of lightening holes, I made my own shelf from styrene sheet.


EdND72rl.jpg

 

Right now, I'm collecting all the parts that will be painted in Aotake to give them a black base followed by a layer of Alclad.

Really want to this in one go, so there will be a lot of prep work necessary beforehand.

 

Cheers,

Joachim


 

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