denders

Yup, I figured that based upon acquiring a plastic container to use to take it to NATS.

Thanks, Max! And I take it from the Tiffee picture, most single engine WWII subjects. I've been looking for some way to display some of my builds in a more visible location in the house and not have to worry about the cleaning folks trying to dust them off. I've had to add a wider shelf in the bonus room for the 110 because the LG near the edge of the existing shelf was perilously close.

Max, I've been looking at display cabinets and trying to figure out which cabinets have space for LSPs. Is the Rudsta pictured the single width cabinet? It looks like it is, but I need to ask. Thanks.

Well, I got awake to an email this morning, double checking my address and telling me that the part will be sent. Thanks, IBG!

Okay, soooooo... the wheels are done. Painted with Hataka lacquer paint. While the bottle makes it sound like it's useable straight from the bottle, I tried it, I will thin it in the future. But a problem has arisen. I didn't notice it until today and wanting to start on the engine. One of the parts is short-shot. I've sent an email asking about a replacement part so I'll have to just wait and see what the response is. So, until sometime in the future I'll have to put this one on hold.

Two more books.

Barry, I used the AK markers for small bits of color in painting as well as touching up the RLM66 in places like the cockpit sill, etc. To my eyes it looked like a really good match. Of course, places like the cockpit sill were subsequently 'touched up' with a silver or gray pencil to simulate scratches.

Thanks, Matt! First step, the wheels. I have the Quickboost wheel set but thought I'd build the kit wheels too. On the left is the kit wheels, on the right is the QuickBoost wheel set. There's a color photo in the Mushroom Yellow Series book which appears to have a circumferential tread pattern. There is also a photo which appears to have been from an original manual which has smooth tread. I'm suspecting that the color photo is from more modern times and is not period correct. The seam line in the tire is way too large to pass off as tread, so would have to be corrected. I'll note that the artwork on the box has the circumferential tread pattern too. I have two other books arriving tomorrow and I'll see what they have in them. I think I'll go with the Quickboost wheel set because the kit wheels will also end up with smooth tread once all the seam is filled and sanded.

The RFI is here:

The build log is here:

A couple of years ago I picked up a Dragon Bf-110D/E kit and a Revell Bf-110C-0/C-7 kit. The goal is a G4 (I have the AIMS conversion), but I wanted to build a 110 of more generic assembly before attempting the G4. So, this was it. I decided on Falck's aircraft and had intended on painting all the markings except the squadron and personal markings. In the end I just used the EagleCals decals for everything. I used various Eduard PE, Aber and Master gun barrels, and the Quickboost exhaust set. The paint is mostly MRP with the use of AK Markers for some small items and touchup.

Since the Bf 110 has been declared done, it's time to start something new. I've been wanting to get done with the 110 so I could start this. It is intended to be a gift for a niece when I finish it. So, the kit The AM that I've acquired. Note that I bought two oil cooler/radiators and the aircraft only has one. And I'm not sure whether I'll use the masks for the markings or the decals. We'll see. I haven't decided which marking I'm going to use yet. Two books that I acquired and there are more on my kindle app. And paint. I couldn't find specific Polish colors in my favorite paint (MRP) but I found these from Hataka. I've never used their paint. Bought straight from Hataka because I couldn't find a source with the correct colors until after I ordered these. It looks like it should be a fun project. And I've already started on a base for it (later).

Thanks, Dennis!

Okay, I'm declaring this finished. Hopefully I'll get to RFI photos this week. Now to figure how I'm going to pack it to take along to NATS. Should be fun.

The timing of this thread is great. I'm working out how I'm going to pack the Bf110 to take to NATS. Thanks!

I'm sure there is something in the hotel. I've got tickets for the banquet though and I've signed up for the T2T dinner Thursday night.

That looks really nice.

This gets worked on occasionally. I've been building the aircraft because I have two of the hangar deck doors open and I want to put some aircraft in there. There won't be lights inside, but If someone looks through or shines a flashlight into it, I want them to see something. These aircraft will probably be on the flight deck, but I'm only using two of them, so I thought it would be easier to start with the EKA-3s. I should have painted a primer instead of just going with white to start.

Thanks, Ernest! I've been slowly working on the little bits.

Hi Troy, Thanks! The clear plastic pieces are from one of these jigs, which I already have. Unfortunately, these are sold out at UMM. WMP018 JETS JIG (3248) - 1/32 & 1/48 scale | Unique Master Models The last photo just above your post, has the wooden pieces from this jig. JH3201 Wooden stand & transport jig 1/32 & 1/24 scale | Unique Master Models The metal angles are in one of the Amazon links. While the plastic jig pieces have a base to them that will work with the extruded aluminum, the base of the wooden jig won't work out. Therefore, the metal angles. The metal angles actually could be turned to extend the model support beyond the extruded aluminum. I kinda liked the wood pieces over the plastic pieces. These plastic pieces can be placed in the ends of the extruded aluminum to block the nut from coming out of the extruded piece. Rrina 12Pcs 2020 Series European Standard Aluminum Profile End Cap T-Slot Aluminum Profile Accessories: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Okay folks, NATS is 41 days away. Who's going? I am.

The obj file type is an old format used by polygonal modelers like Lightwave, Modo, Blender, 3DSMax, Maya, and a host of other programs like that. All of those programs have their own file format but obj can be used as a file exchange format. And unfortunately, the faceting is what you'll get if there aren't enough polygons. I use Modo for my modeling but I sub-divide the models which adds polygons, and then export an stl file which adds polygons to open in the slicer program.

413 sounds like an excellent choice to me.

I just use blue painters tape to tape plain old printer paper to the sides and bottom. And when I decided that white paper on the bottom was a bit too bright, I used some leftover green paper from a foray my wife did to print Christmas cards a number of years ago. When it gets too dirty, I replace it. And if needed I can spray on the paper to see whether I have the airbrush adjusted to where I want it.