Airfix 1/24th scale Mk.IX Spitfire........March 2024. All done

[CraigH]

Hi Guy

As ever, lovely job. It seems there were two types of camlock fastenings used depending on when the aircraft was built. The early ones had riveted dzuz fastenings, sitting more flush to the skin, that were found to stress the cowlings more. Later aircraft had "free floating ones" which look slightly different in relief. So the external look varied. I suppose it's a "you pays your money" moment

[JayW]

Well Guy - Were it me, I think I would leave it alone.  Or gently rub on some of the relief with some steel wool.  Then let the paint thickness help as much as it will.  Great Spit!  

[geedubelyer]

Hi gang.

Progress at last......

I've begun painting. 

 

 

 

This Vallejo Medium Sea Grey mixed 50:50 with water. I primed the model with Halfords grey whizz can automotive primer then sanded the surface smooth using Micromesh pads. 

 

I'm planning to use the 1 Man Army masks for the stencils. 

Does anyone know whether a glossy surface is better or can I apply them straight onto the matt paint finish?

The instructions only mention a clean, dry surface.

Edited January 28 by geedubelyer

[CraigH]

2 hours ago, geedubelyer said:

Hi gang.

Progress at last......

I've begun painting. 

 

 

 

This Vallejo Medium Sea Grey mixed 50:50 with water. I primed the model with Halfords grey whizz can automotive primer then sanded the surface smooth using Micromesh pads. 

 

I'm planning to use the 1 Man Army masks for the stencils. 

Does anyone know whether a glossy surface is better or can I apply them straight onto the matt paint finish?

The instructions only mention a clean, dry surface.

Hi Guy. They're better matt mate. I used em exclusively. Sven even did me a custom MK356. They are superb

[geedubelyer]

Hi Craig, thanks for that. Good to know.

 

I’ve been flicking through the Wingleader photo archive to get a feel for the stencils and noticed that in many images they seem conspicuous by their absence.

 

What are the collective’s thoughts regarding stencil data.

 

My intention at this point is to depict a line bird, probably from one of the Canadian squadrons that had been stationed at RAF Digby at some point in their history.

 

Any input is much appreciated

 

Cheers 

[Palm-tree]

Re Dzus fasteners- does this help?

 

This is the Grace Spitfire ML407

 

[geedubelyer]

@Palm-tree, thank you for the image. It helps alot and confirms what I was picturing.

Pouring over reference photos in the WingLeader book I noticed that there were some fasteners proud of the surface a sAirfix have depicted, some quite flush like the ones on the airframe in your photo and other images showed a mixture of types. I chose to mix them up so have left some of the kit parts alone but replaced others. All will be revealed in due course. 

 

After painting the undersides I moved on to the stencil data. 

If any of you watch Nigel's Modelling bench on YouTube you'll have seen him use the 1 Man Army stencils. These are self adhesive paper templates that allow the aircraft data (amongst other things) to be painted on. 

 

The sets include comprehensive instructions and one or two spare stencils to practice with. 

After advice from @CraigH I applied the stencils straight to the matt paint of the model and burnished them down using paper on top as described in the instructions. The paper protects the delicate stencils from deforming too much.

 

 

I then masked around the stencils to minimise over spray. 

Sven whi is 1 Man Army makes it clear in the instructions that the stencils should be built up in light coats and also by altering the direction they are painted from to get into all of the detail. As a guide he explains that once all of the yellow colour of the stencil is obscured they should be complete.

The stencil material has a good bond to the model and once burnished down takes some effort to remove. To help with removal Sven suggests attaching a tiny piece of scrap masking tape under one corner of the stencil tape which worked well.

 

 

I used Vallejo black grey rather than outright black. This is a major benefit of using stencils. The markings and data can be painted in any colour or shade the user desires.

 

With the masking removed the results were pleasing.

 

 

 

 

 

I am happy with the way they turned out and also with the colour. 

I intentionally wasn't too perfect with symmetry or placement as I feel that adds realism and life to the model. (YMMV)

 

So next up will be the multi part underwing roundel. A bit more of a complicated procedure so I'll report back on that when I've had a play. 

 

Cheers.

Edited February 1 by geedubelyer

[CraigH]

2 hours ago, geedubelyer said:

@Palm-tree, thank you for the image. It helps alot and confirms what I was picturing.

Pouring over reference photos in the WingLeader book I noticed that there were some fasteners proud of the surface a sAirfix have depicted, some quite flush like the ones on the airframe in your photo and other images showed a mixture of types. I chose to mix them up so have left some of the kit parts alone but replaced others. All will be revealed in due course. 

 

After painting the undersides I moved on to the stencil data. 

If any of you watch Nigel's Modelling bench on YouTube you'll have seen him use the 1 Man Army stencils. These are self adhesive paper templates that allow the aircraft data (amongst other things) to be painted on. 

 

The sets include comprehensive instructions and one or two spare stencils to practice with. 

After advice from @CraigH I applied the stencils straight to the matt paint of the model and burnished them down using paper on top as described in the instructions. The paper protects the delicate stencils from deforming too much.

 

 

I then masked around the stencils to minimise over spray. 

Sven whi is 1 Man Army makes it clear in the instructions that the stencils should be built up in light coats and also by altering the direction they are painted from to get into all of the detail. As a guide he explains that once all of the yellow colour of the stencil is obscured they should be complete.

The stencil material has a good bond to the model and once burnished down takes some effort to remove. To help with removal Sven suggests attaching a tiny piece of scrap masking tape under one corner of the stencil tape which worked well.

 

 

I used Vallejo black grey rather than outright black. This is a major benefit of using stencils. The markings and data can be painted in any colour or shade the user desires.

 

With the masking removed the results were pleasing.

 

 

 

 

 

I am happy with the way they turned out and also with the colour. 

I intentionally wasn't too perfect with symmetry or placement as I feel that adds realism and life to the model. (YMMV)

 

So next up will be the multi part underwing roundel. A bit more of a complicated procedure so I'll report back on that when I've had a play. 

 

Cheers.

Great job. I go wonky on most of my stencils etc now. Rarely were they straight. The roundels are ok. I drew a cross across and numbered the quadrants so I could rematch accurately. I also found out the hard way that the yellow benefits from a white undercoat, but that's not underwing is it LOL?

[mozart]

The stencils are definitely the way to go Guy, used them recently on my Hurricane and was absolutely delighted with the results. I like the fact that the modeller has direct control over the definition of the stencil, so it’s very easy to get a “worn” look just by using the right colour and the spraying technique.  Yours look perfect.

[Archimedes]

That is shaping up nicely Guy,

 

The stencils are clearly the way to go btw.

 

Kind regards,

Paul

[JayW]

Guy - this is turning into one splendid model.  Love the stencils!  Wish I could get a bunch for a 1/18 P-51!

[Pete Fleischmann]

Well done Guy. 
great to see you back-

 

cheers

P

[geedubelyer]

On 2/2/2024 at 3:28 AM, JayW said:

Guy - this is turning into one splendid model.  Love the stencils!  Wish I could get a bunch for a 1/18 P-51!

 

Thanks everyone. Your kind words are much appreciated. I'm glad you're enjoying things so far. I have started on the underwing roundels last night so I'll update the progress soon. 

At Telford last year I bought some Mission Models (EDIT* actually HR hobbies MS-653 WWII roundel blue and MS-655 WWII roundel red enamels) colours for the Insignia. I'll share a shot of the blue later because it looks a bit light compared to photos of Spitfires on the net. Perhaps modern warbird colours aren't quite the same? Either that or I need to shake the bottle for longer. 

 

@JayW. It would be worth having a look here. There are alot of knowledgeable individuals on that forum who are sure to be able to help.

At the scale you're building in even the smallest stencils should be possible.

Another option might be to approach Sven of 1ManArmy directly. Having visited his stall at Telford I can tell you he is passionate and enthusiastic about what he does. It's quite possible he already has P-51 data in his plans for the future. Good luck.

 

Cheers.

Edited February 11 by geedubelyer

[Sven 1ManArmy]

Hi Guy

This is Sven from 1manarmy 

Craig just told me of your build and I might give you some more advice on the roundels.

Easier for me if you could communicate through my website mail address 

Info@1manarmy.be 

Kind regards from Belgium 

Sven 

[geedubelyer]

Many thanks for all of the help Sven, much appreciated. 

When I'm building a model in future I will definitely be using your products if there is a set available.

 

Whilst I'm waiting for the various colours of the roundels to dry I thought I might share a quick look here of the Eduard Brassin resin wheel set that's available for this model. 

 

 

 

The set comes with separate wheels and tyres plus a one piece replacement tail wheel. There are masks and a small piece of etch for the hub covers.

 

 

The tyres all have a weighted appearance with neat and crisp sidewall markings. The detail of the hubs looks sharp and crisp too.

 

 

Rudimentary instructions are included although much of it is self explanatory for this simple set. I haven't worked out why masks are included for both sides of the wheel since the outer hub is separate? No matter, at least I have spares if I fluff any up. 

 

The kit wheels are pretty good to be honest but because of the molding process Airfix are forced to offer the tyres in two halves. These fit well but even so there is a slight seam that needs attention. This remedial work could possibly result in a flattened section of the centre of the tyre (or a whole lot of work to fill and keep the crown). 

 

The Eduard Brassin set was relatively inexpensive so seemed like a sensible alternative. I believe both Barracuda Studios and Armoury also have several sets available offering different tyre and hub combinations. If anyone has any of those sets and wishes to add any photos here please do as it might make for a neat comparison. 

 

Cheers.

Edited February 4 by geedubelyer