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A rarity for me....a Bf109 and this time it's a Revell G-10 Erla - Pretty Much Done.


Juggernut

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5 minutes ago, Thunnus said:

Hey Tim... I think it looks great!  If you want a second opinion, the instructions for White 44 on EagleCal's decal sheet says:

 

Uppersurfaces: RLM 74/75

Undersurfaces; RLM 76 Light Blue

Fuselage band: Red and Yellow with Blue horizontal band

Spinner: Black with White spiral; Small upper wing bulges; possibly no antenna mast

 

Fuselage: B5 900mm White outline crosses; H2a 300mm Black Hakenkreuz trimmed with White

Wings: Upper B6 1000mm White outline crosses; Lower B4 900mm Black outline crosses

 

EC32_156-2.jpg

 

Hi John,

 

I have that sheet but I'm not going to do the camouflage the way it's represented on that sheet, I'm adding a little more "flair" if you will, to the color scheme.  I did notice that some of the Erla representative aircraft have what may be considered a "wavy line pattern" but not sure if that's a result of the mottling or if it was part of the base scheme.

 

If worse-comes-to-worse, I'll strip the entire paint job off (it's only acrylic so it should come off rather easily - Lord knows it doesn't stand up to masking tape) and respray it. 

Edited by Juggernut
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Well, I think I've come to the decision that I'm going to strip all the acrylic based paint off and start over, this time with MRP which I'm getting ready to purchase.  The Gunze aqueous RLM75 I put on was the only paint that performed really well.  The Vallejo stuff just isn't working...

Edited by Juggernut
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9WLEkJ.jpg

 

X5KSQM.jpg

Common 74/75/76 Erla factory schemes

 

 

UhN8qQ.png

The Erla G-10 fuselages and cowlings were routinely painted 76 during construction, at least with the 74/75/76 camouflage. There appears to be less of a patchwork look than with the WNF and Diana patterns overall until the late greens appear.

 

AtX51S.jpg

It's not too uncommon to have a green fuselage and 74/75/76 cowling due to engine replacement.

 

My $0.02 worth.

 

HTH,

Damian

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Thanks again Damian...

 

I did strip the paint off the model, at least the acrylic paint.  The alclad is pretty tough and didn't even get dinged when I used isopropyl to remove the acrylic stuff.  Now it sits on the stand, a blank canvas again.  The only part I did not strip were the windscreen and canopy.  I'll leave those as is and repaint over what's there.  If it has a reaction to the MRP, then we'll worry about cleaning it off.

 

My Paasche H airbrush used to do a decent job of painting but in recent years, it seems to have more spattering than what it used to have.  I have an Iwata Eclipse with the gravity feed cup I haven't used yet, so I'm wondering if that will do any better?  I'm also thinking that the air pressure needed to use a gravity feed airbrush won't be the same as that needed for a siphon airbrush... I dunno.  Maybe it's me but I've tried all different mixes (thinner to paint ratios), air pressures and still cannot get acrylics to work worth a tinkers damn.  Luckily, the Vallejo paints I purchased did not cost a lot.

Edited by Juggernut
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Tim... please try the Iwata gravity cup AB!!!  I started on a Paasche H myself and while it's a great tool, jumping from a siphon-feed to a gravity-feed airbrush was a huge jump for me, especially in time-savings.  It's much easier and faster to clean a gravity feed AB.

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LOL...Priceless!

 

Anyway; ROUND II!  Ding,ding,ding, ding...... In this corner, the same damn plane with the same camo pattern BUT with different paints (MRP [black], and Gunze Mr. Color [RLM76]).  

 

I used John's tecnique of panel shading with some more squiggles, this time with the MRP black.  The Mr. Color 76 looks a lot more appropriate and both the MRP and the Mr. Color sprayed like a dream through the old H model airbrush (at about 20 psi).

 

 

QpLdhOc.jpg

 

 

Damn Alclad lifted again in a spot behind the wheel well... !@$&!%@$!!^(~.

 

oGy3Rsi.jpg

 

Looks a lot nicer (in my opinion) when the 76 is the right shade of blue (or close enough to it) and my "decentralized" factory approach is back in play.

 

wxySwkh.jpg

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This is the paint job I'm "attempting" to recreate albeit not precisely.  The werk no. is only about six airframes away from my chosen subject so I thought it would be a possible camouflage scheme for the werk no. of my chosen subject 151556.  I got this from page 72 of the Wolowski book on Late version Bf109 camo and markings.

 

 

A8zDrwu.jpg

Edited by Juggernut
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Very nice recovery Tim, (got your name right this time!).  I am planning to try my hand at a NMF on the build I'm working on in the "Turning Japanese" GB, so I am following your build pretty closely to see how a really skilled modeller does it.  Taking a lot of notes.

 

Ernest  

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I love the scheme you’ve chosen Tim, and look forward to it coming to life! I once gave airbrushing Vallejo paints a serious try—definitely suboptimal! However, I find them unmatched for brush painting, even for touching up over other paint brands.

 

Cheers,  Tom 

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