James Rademaker Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 Good evening Guys, I have a question regarding getting all the sanding dust out of the newly scribed panel lines. I have sanded all the raised panel lines off and re-scribed new panel lines on the 1/32 REVELL P-51 B. Now the plastic is nice and smooth but the newly scribed lines are full of sanding dust. Any suggestions on how to clear them out before I apply primer? I don’t want to have ally my time and work covered with layers of paint. Looking forward to your comments. Thanks, Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkwrench Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 I use an old toothbrush dipped in water and just scrub it really good till the dust is out and then wipe it down with IPA followed by wiping it with a Kemtech wipe. Tim MikeC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 I second the toothbrush method, but a secondary technique I use after that is to run a tiny amount of liquid cement (Tamiya Extra Thin is ideal) along the newly-scribed lines. This not only helps with dissolving any sanding detritus, but also assists in tidying up the lines a little, and helps make them look like an integrated part of the moulding, rather than scribed-in trenches. Kev MikeC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 I use wood toothpicks and they clean out the lines and get rid of ridges, many years ago I build quite a few old Revell kits and sanded them down and rescribed them, I was very pleased with the results. Cheers Dennis MikeC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 Yes to all of the above but I also use a stiff bristle paint brush (i.e. stipple brush) dipped in water. This is sometimes more handy for working smaller areas. D.B. Andrus and MikeC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Rademaker Posted February 9, 2021 Author Share Posted February 9, 2021 I’ll try the stipple brush. Thanks, Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 A thin scotchbrite pad is also useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 20 hours ago, James Rademaker said: I’ll try the stipple brush. Thanks, Jim If you need more stiffness, you can trim the bristles. I always have a few stipple brushes around to clean up sanding/trimming excess. They also work well for the hairspray chipping technique. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Stambaugh Posted February 11, 2021 Share Posted February 11, 2021 I use an airgun on the garage air compressor to blast away sanding debri just before heading to the paint booth. A soft rubber nozzle and up to 40 psi works well. Thunnus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 9 hours ago, John Stambaugh said: I use an airgun on the garage air compressor to blast away sanding debri just before heading to the paint booth. A soft rubber nozzle and up to 40 psi works well. What a great idea! Maybe I'll try to use my airbrush loaded with water as a power blaster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Stambaugh Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 Sarcasm? Allow me to explain. Sanding debri will get down in the gap between control surfaces where mechanical means cannot reach. Then during airbrushing the debri is lifted out where it lands onto the wet paint. Using air pressure to remove contaminants prior to painting is the most thorough remedy that works for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Rademaker Posted February 12, 2021 Author Share Posted February 12, 2021 John, I really like your idea of compressed air. Genius! Unfortunately for me I don’t have or use an airbrush. Thanks, Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 (edited) Electric toothbrush and a very mild plastic polish...this combination is especially effective at cleaning out rivet and fastener detail. After a light coat of primer... Edited February 13, 2021 by allthumbs Fanes and thierry laurent 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunnus Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 On 2/12/2021 at 2:47 AM, John Stambaugh said: Sarcasm? Allow me to explain. Sanding debri will get down in the gap between control surfaces where mechanical means cannot reach. Then during airbrushing the debri is lifted out where it lands onto the wet paint. Using air pressure to remove contaminants prior to painting is the most thorough remedy that works for me. Not sarcasm... totally serious! I have a problem with my rivets getting filled with sanding dust, especially if there is a primer coat. I thought that I could use an airbrush loaded with water to clean the surface of the model prior to painting. I’ve done the toothbrush/paintbrush thing and it is only partially effective on rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Rademaker Posted February 14, 2021 Author Share Posted February 14, 2021 Wouldn’t the extra thin Tamiya cement fill the rivet holes? Don’t you then have to lightly sand any cement that is around the rivet hole , thus creating more sanding dust. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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