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Oramask 810 question:

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Hi everyone!


I finally had a good chance to put my Silhouette machine to work for more than one or two markings, and I found myself struggling when it came to more detailed masks.


For instance, a number with a fine outline:  Trying to remove the mask from the paper backing after I had attached the face of the mask against some photo frisket, my biggest error was either cutting the fine outline by mistake, or stretching it and ruining it.  I found that until the mask was actually safely in place, the only way I could manipulate it was with a X-acto knife.


I'm just wondering if I'm doing it the hard way, or if it;s just the nature of the beast.



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Not sure if this is what you are talking about as I don't know what Oramask is but masks are really fiddley and it is easy for them to become distorted, I always use some "transfer tape" to hold all the segments together while I transfer the mask to the model.

Here is a mask for the tail marking on a Hayate, I have used Tamiya tape to hold it all together.


And on the model with the segments removed


I do this with most masks especially roundels which can go egg shaped.






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Dennis is right Gaz, you need to use a piece of Oramask, obviously bigger than your mask, to "pick up" the mask from its backing sheet, this is then used to place the symbol in position then peeled carefully away.  If you have multiple "layers", like on a roundel, the transfer mask can be re-applied to accurately position the next circle (which will have been retained on the mask initially).  Hope this makes sense and is what you're asking about.


I've found Mal Mayfield's instructions:


Edited by mozart

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Another little bit of advice, based on an issue I have just had.


Get the pressure of the cutting blade set just right otherwise, as I have just found,  the blade pushes the edge of each part of the mask down into the backing paper. This isn't very much, but it is enough to make the masking layer reluctant to separate from its backing - even if using a transfer tape.





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Indeed..................Ive got a LOT of experience with Oramask 810 and the guys are right. Using piece of "transfer tape" is the way to go.


Generally some do recommend using another piece of Oramask for this task, but I found that using Oramask for this purpose is not ideal. I found that the Oramask 810 is way too opaque for my tastes as transfer tape, as  its very hard to see where you are actually placing the mask.


What I found that works best for me personally is in fact clear frisket film used in airbrush masking. I cut out a suitably sized piece to cover all parts of the mask I want to move, including all negative and positive parts. 

Then place that piece of clear frisket film over the entire mask and gently use a blade to make sure all of the mask comes away from the backing onto the frisket film together all as one piece

Then transfer the mask to where you want it, using the clear properties of the frisket film to position correctly. 


Once the whole mask is transferred to the final area, use a #11 blade or the like to weed out the parts of the mask you want to remove, making sure those parts stick to and come away with the frisket film!   

This way, you will be able to re-position those parts of the mask removed later, when you need to paint a different area of the mask. 


This method will keep all parts of the mask aligned with each other,  as this is key to making the mask look good in the end and is especially critical in things like British roundels and German crosses. 



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