Jump to content
Gazzas

Oramask 810 question:

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone!

 

I finally had a good chance to put my Silhouette machine to work for more than one or two markings, and I found myself struggling when it came to more detailed masks.

 

For instance, a number with a fine outline:  Trying to remove the mask from the paper backing after I had attached the face of the mask against some photo frisket, my biggest error was either cutting the fine outline by mistake, or stretching it and ruining it.  I found that until the mask was actually safely in place, the only way I could manipulate it was with a X-acto knife.

 

I'm just wondering if I'm doing it the hard way, or if it;s just the nature of the beast.

 

Gaz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure if this is what you are talking about as I don't know what Oramask is but masks are really fiddley and it is easy for them to become distorted, I always use some "transfer tape" to hold all the segments together while I transfer the mask to the model.

Here is a mask for the tail marking on a Hayate, I have used Tamiya tape to hold it all together.

fkY6q2.jpg

And on the model with the segments removed

26vXq8.jpg

I do this with most masks especially roundels which can go egg shaped.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dennis is right Gaz, you need to use a piece of Oramask, obviously bigger than your mask, to "pick up" the mask from its backing sheet, this is then used to place the symbol in position then peeled carefully away.  If you have multiple "layers", like on a roundel, the transfer mask can be re-applied to accurately position the next circle (which will have been retained on the mask initially).  Hope this makes sense and is what you're asking about.

 

I've found Mal Mayfield's instructions:

ZgmkEi.jpg

Edited by mozart

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another little bit of advice, based on an issue I have just had.

 

Get the pressure of the cutting blade set just right otherwise, as I have just found,  the blade pushes the edge of each part of the mask down into the backing paper. This isn't very much, but it is enough to make the masking layer reluctant to separate from its backing - even if using a transfer tape.

 

HTH

 

Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×