Bil Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 (edited) Finished the base 3D wing model... I had to build it in 3D because I was finding errors in the drawings I downloaded online. I knew the exact width and the exact chord and used those measurements as my base to ensure the scale and spacing was perfect. From this I generated the plan to scale that I will use to build on: I also started to print out the components required for this build... namely the root rib, several main ribs, a few false ribs (of two types), and the tip rib. I will also be printing out the spar rigging supports and the wing tip. The spars, trailing and leading edges will all be made from wood. Impossible for me to cut these intricate ribs by hand at this scale.. so printing them in 3D ensures they are all identical and perfect, I can just throw out any that are less than perfect. These are about 3/64" thick (edges of cap strip).. so very thin, but the cap strip actually provides some strength,, more than you might think actually... the main part of the rib is about 1/64" in thickness. Sorry for the poor photo.. but the clarity on these prints is very good, the cap strips and other details are very clear and crisp. Edited January 22, 2019 by Bil TorbenD, 109, Trak-Tor and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCRATCH BUILDER Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 Brilliant, Just brilliant! Bil and BiggTim 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 (edited) As I am very, very new to the whole 3D resin printing thing (been at it a whole 2 days now!), may I ask why you chose to print the ribs standing up instead of lying on their sides? I only ask because I really have a lot to learn! Edited January 23, 2019 by BiggTim SCRATCH BUILDER 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCRATCH BUILDER Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 I would assume the least amount of contact points to clean up, with them all being on that bottom edge, a little sandpaper and your ready to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 That's impressive. Crazy... but impressive! Bil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fvdm Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 4 hours ago, SCRATCH BUILDER said: Brilliant, Just brilliant! +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bil Posted January 23, 2019 Author Share Posted January 23, 2019 (edited) Thanks fellas. 9 hours ago, BiggTim said: As I am very, very new to the whole 3D resin printing thing (been at it a whole 2 days now!), may I ask why you chose to print the ribs standing up instead of lying on their sides? I only ask because I really have a lot to learn! I have discovered that laying a part flat as you suggest tends to make the print soft and you lose detail... maybe it has something to do with the way the resin is deposited, but if you tilt your part slightly (around 20-25 degrees) the detail is sharper and the print is overall more likely to be successful. I also never print without some sort of support. most of the time I just let the program add auto-supports, but sometimes, when I want to ensure the supports don't get in the way of the detail I will manually add them or adjust them by deleting and adding supports as required. At times I have added supports manually in my 3D program, but not often. Here is an example (from my Stearman project) showing my wing rib print tests.. one was printed flat while the other was tilted slightly.. the difference in quality and ease of clean up was night and day... though I found the tilted rib needed some supports at the top to help maintain that detail. These were printed with auto-supports added in the slicer program... The detail is clearer when printed in gray (these are 100% scale, in thickness and component part size).. this print was with supports added in my 3D program making contact at the reinforcement locations on the back side of the rib: The ribs clean up rather quickly.. there are several supports for each, along the bottom edge and along the back side... but they snip off easily and from there are rather simple to finish. I use the lightest supports for delicate parts as they leave a very small contact point. Hope that helped. Edited January 23, 2019 by Bil LSP_Kevin, Fvdm, Out2gtcha and 4 others 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alain Gadbois Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 Truly excellent work here Bill! Alain BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 Thank you for the explanation, Bil! That was very helpful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamj Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bil Posted January 30, 2019 Author Share Posted January 30, 2019 (edited) Wing Dry Fit Been doing some traveling over the last few weeks so have had little time to devote to this project, but I should be off that for a while now. I printed out all of the wing parts, cut the spars out of some thin plywood and assembled some of them together to check the fit and scaling... I am having trouble with getting a usable print of the Root Rib, the gray resin version had an issue and the green version also had some flaws, I think I need to thicken up some of the components that make up this part... it is included in the images below for context, but I will be reprinting this one. Other than that all looks good now, so I can finish cleaning up the ribs, give all of the resin parts some paint and then assemble this thing. I ran out of the gray resin and had to move to another color... doesn't really matter as these parts will all be painted anyway.. but I have noticed some difference in the strength between the gray and green parts... the gray resin is stronger, but more brittle (less flexible) than the green which is a different brand. I also printed out some (near) scale turnbuckles for the rigging.. near scale because they are a few mm too long, but the actual scale turnbuckles were REALLY tiny at this scale.. these will work, though I need to do some strength tests as the eyelet neck looks awful weak to me: More images of the wing dry fit: Edited January 30, 2019 by Bil 109, Gazzas, williamj and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Very inspiring, Bil!! Looking really cool! SCRATCH BUILDER and Bil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCRATCH BUILDER Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Nice Bill, really nice! I have been print some stuff with Phrozen ABS like resin, A lot stronger then Anycubic's resin BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now