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Bil

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Everything posted by Bil

  1. That engine truly is a work of art.
  2. Peter, for another poster I took some detailed photos of the FW-190D (reproduction) at the local Military Aviation Museum... you can get them here: FW-190D Photos Additionally I also took photos of an original FW-190A.. as your model is kind of a hybrid, maybe they will also be helpful: FW-190A Photos Hope something in those links is helpful. Bil
  3. All I can say is... wow. Simply gorgeous.
  4. Thank you for this build thread, I have enjoyed every minute of it. Your final result is very easy on the eyes. Bil
  5. I love the little guard for the MG to ensure the gunner doesn't shoot their rudder off. Bil
  6. I love this build, its gorgeous... only one thing missing... the catapult for the display stand.
  7. Unless the wings are covered with wood, like the D-VIII, I am pretty sure that rib-tapes were a mandatory safety feature for fabric covered wings. I would bet that even though they aren't prominent on photos that doesn't mean they aren't there. This is a gorgeous build so far, love the engine and the framing especially... very well done.
  8. There is also Eugen Lorcher's FW-190-F8 which was mostly bare metal.. sorry couldn't find much else about it online:
  9. This is incredible workmanship. Amazing really.
  10. Love it, a HUGE improvement over the kit part... learning to solder is on my to-do list. Bil
  11. Nice work Tim.. if you turn that cowl the other way around the supports will be on the inside and it'll leave your exterior surface blemish free... the inside can be as ugly as you want, eh? As far as shrinkage with the Anycubic Photon printer.. I have not noticed that at all. in fact the parts are coming out exactly the right size, and months later there has been no shrinkage that I can notice... real thin parts can indeed warp though.. so you have to be careful of that... but once glued in position they are usually fine.
  12. I made some edits to this spreadsheet... you can now enter any scale (its now a direct entry rather than a drop down menu) and I also added a calculator to help convert a plan drawing to any scale. Bil
  13. Wing Dry Fit Been doing some traveling over the last few weeks so have had little time to devote to this project, but I should be off that for a while now. I printed out all of the wing parts, cut the spars out of some thin plywood and assembled some of them together to check the fit and scaling... I am having trouble with getting a usable print of the Root Rib, the gray resin version had an issue and the green version also had some flaws, I think I need to thicken up some of the components that make up this part... it is included in the images below for context, but I will be rep
  14. I have created a Google Sheets spreadsheet to help with converting real world measurements to scale measurements in either imperial or metric units. Feedback or issues are welcome. I hope it is useful! Scale Convert Spreadsheet You can make entries in the red outlined fields, first set your scale (1/48, 1/32, 1/24, 1/18, 1/16, 1/15, or 1/12), then enter whatever your real world measurement is in the appropriate field. The Output field will contain your scale measurement in either imperial or metric units. Bil
  15. Thanks fellas. I have discovered that laying a part flat as you suggest tends to make the print soft and you lose detail... maybe it has something to do with the way the resin is deposited, but if you tilt your part slightly (around 20-25 degrees) the detail is sharper and the print is overall more likely to be successful. I also never print without some sort of support. most of the time I just let the program add auto-supports, but sometimes, when I want to ensure the supports don't get in the way of the detail I will manually add them or adjust them by deleting and add
  16. Love your presentation... very cool model!
  17. Definitely go two-tone Andy... it would look better in my opinion. Oh and the photo is indeed of a Camel not a Pup and it is a reconstruction not an original... though I'm sure you can find examples of those online.
  18. Finished the base 3D wing model... I had to build it in 3D because I was finding errors in the drawings I downloaded online. I knew the exact width and the exact chord and used those measurements as my base to ensure the scale and spacing was perfect. From this I generated the plan to scale that I will use to build on: I also started to print out the components required for this build... namely the root rib, several main ribs, a few false ribs (of two types), and the tip rib. I will also be printing out the spar rigging supports and the wing tip. The spa
  19. A unique subject for sure, takes me back to the early 80s when I took some flying lessons.
  20. Fuselage Bracing Points The first step for me in adding detail to the fuselage frame was adding the bracing points the rigging wires hang from. But first I had to sit down and research where these needed to go.. this was done with a combination of looking at photos of the reconstruction built in Germany (by a friend of mine, (Achim Engels) and the only surviving original that is in the British Science Museum in London. This photo is from Achim's reconstruction: ...this photo is from the original.. there were some differences between the reconstructed
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