Jump to content

Bil

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    77
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Bil

  1. This is incredible workmanship. Amazing really.
  2. So it has earned everything except an Oscar. Congrats!
  3. Love it, a HUGE improvement over the kit part... learning to solder is on my to-do list. Bil
  4. Nice work Tim.. if you turn that cowl the other way around the supports will be on the inside and it'll leave your exterior surface blemish free... the inside can be as ugly as you want, eh? As far as shrinkage with the Anycubic Photon printer.. I have not noticed that at all. in fact the parts are coming out exactly the right size, and months later there has been no shrinkage that I can notice... real thin parts can indeed warp though.. so you have to be careful of that... but once glued in position they are usually fine.
  5. I made some edits to this spreadsheet... you can now enter any scale (its now a direct entry rather than a drop down menu) and I also added a calculator to help convert a plan drawing to any scale. Bil
  6. Wing Dry Fit Been doing some traveling over the last few weeks so have had little time to devote to this project, but I should be off that for a while now. I printed out all of the wing parts, cut the spars out of some thin plywood and assembled some of them together to check the fit and scaling... I am having trouble with getting a usable print of the Root Rib, the gray resin version had an issue and the green version also had some flaws, I think I need to thicken up some of the components that make up this part... it is included in the images below for context, but I will be reprinting this one. Other than that all looks good now, so I can finish cleaning up the ribs, give all of the resin parts some paint and then assemble this thing. I ran out of the gray resin and had to move to another color... doesn't really matter as these parts will all be painted anyway.. but I have noticed some difference in the strength between the gray and green parts... the gray resin is stronger, but more brittle (less flexible) than the green which is a different brand. I also printed out some (near) scale turnbuckles for the rigging.. near scale because they are a few mm too long, but the actual scale turnbuckles were REALLY tiny at this scale.. these will work, though I need to do some strength tests as the eyelet neck looks awful weak to me: More images of the wing dry fit:
  7. I have created a Google Sheets spreadsheet to help with converting real world measurements to scale measurements in either imperial or metric units. Feedback or issues are welcome. I hope it is useful! Scale Convert Spreadsheet You can make entries in the red outlined fields, first set your scale (1/48, 1/32, 1/24, 1/18, 1/16, 1/15, or 1/12), then enter whatever your real world measurement is in the appropriate field. The Output field will contain your scale measurement in either imperial or metric units. Bil
  8. Thanks fellas. I have discovered that laying a part flat as you suggest tends to make the print soft and you lose detail... maybe it has something to do with the way the resin is deposited, but if you tilt your part slightly (around 20-25 degrees) the detail is sharper and the print is overall more likely to be successful. I also never print without some sort of support. most of the time I just let the program add auto-supports, but sometimes, when I want to ensure the supports don't get in the way of the detail I will manually add them or adjust them by deleting and adding supports as required. At times I have added supports manually in my 3D program, but not often. Here is an example (from my Stearman project) showing my wing rib print tests.. one was printed flat while the other was tilted slightly.. the difference in quality and ease of clean up was night and day... though I found the tilted rib needed some supports at the top to help maintain that detail. These were printed with auto-supports added in the slicer program... The detail is clearer when printed in gray (these are 100% scale, in thickness and component part size).. this print was with supports added in my 3D program making contact at the reinforcement locations on the back side of the rib: The ribs clean up rather quickly.. there are several supports for each, along the bottom edge and along the back side... but they snip off easily and from there are rather simple to finish. I use the lightest supports for delicate parts as they leave a very small contact point. Hope that helped.
  9. Found, it the link to the Pup plans is within this Aerodrome thread
  10. Love your presentation... very cool model!
  11. Definitely go two-tone Andy... it would look better in my opinion. Oh and the photo is indeed of a Camel not a Pup and it is a reconstruction not an original... though I'm sure you can find examples of those online.
  12. Andy, yes that is from one of the Pup blueprint sheets... they were redrawn by a guy recently so they are vector drawings now and can be scaled without loss of quality. I don't have the link in front of me but I'll try to find it and get it to you. The Camel blueprints would give you the same information but on the aircraft you are building of course. Highly recommended.
  13. Finished the base 3D wing model... I had to build it in 3D because I was finding errors in the drawings I downloaded online. I knew the exact width and the exact chord and used those measurements as my base to ensure the scale and spacing was perfect. From this I generated the plan to scale that I will use to build on: I also started to print out the components required for this build... namely the root rib, several main ribs, a few false ribs (of two types), and the tip rib. I will also be printing out the spar rigging supports and the wing tip. The spars, trailing and leading edges will all be made from wood. Impossible for me to cut these intricate ribs by hand at this scale.. so printing them in 3D ensures they are all identical and perfect, I can just throw out any that are less than perfect. These are about 3/64" thick (edges of cap strip).. so very thin, but the cap strip actually provides some strength,, more than you might think actually... the main part of the rib is about 1/64" in thickness. Sorry for the poor photo.. but the clarity on these prints is very good, the cap strips and other details are very clear and crisp.
  14. I imagine its similar construction to the Sopwith Pup, which I have the plans for... the wing ribs were screwed together, to the leading and trailing edges, and to the spars. The cap strips were also screwed to the rib itself. Note from the wing rib plan sheet: RIBS HELD IN POSITION ON SPAR BY MEANS OF 3/16" X 3/8" SPRUCE BLOCKS 'E' GLUED AND BRADDED WITH 1/16" X 1/2" BRASS TACKS Wing rib example (click on the image to see a larger version)... brads are clearly visible: This image, if you zoom in, does look like the Camel used the same construction techniques: Link to this image: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1c/Sopwith_Camel_(repro)_structure.JPG
  15. A unique subject for sure, takes me back to the early 80s when I took some flying lessons.
  16. Fuselage Bracing Points The first step for me in adding detail to the fuselage frame was adding the bracing points the rigging wires hang from. But first I had to sit down and research where these needed to go.. this was done with a combination of looking at photos of the reconstruction built in Germany (by a friend of mine, (Achim Engels) and the only surviving original that is in the British Science Museum in London. This photo is from Achim's reconstruction: ...this photo is from the original.. there were some differences between the reconstructed aircraft (above) and the one in the Science Museum, and in those cases I defaulted to the Science Museum photos as it is an original aircraft. This is my drawing... showing in red, all the locations of the bracing points for the fuselage rigging This image is a detail showing the rear of the fuselage being worked on (fuselage TOP is facing down on the building board): Next step for me is to "weld" these in using some home made old-school plastic-putty:
  17. I really don't think the pivot points are online with the black marks you have indicated. The pivot point (hinge-line) is about at the aileron leading edge... see the following images:
  18. Not really.. I looked at it a while back, but not recently.
  19. Fuselage Frame After a lot of research online I discovered that the drawings easily found online were not as accurate as I would like, so I decided to build it in 3D in my computer... then used that as the template for the physical model. This is the template drawing I generated from the 3D model. The color coding breaks down as follows: Light Blue - 3/64" plastic rod (main fuselage structure) Dark Blue - 1/16" plastic rod (Landing gear support) Green - 1/32" plastic rod (cowling internal support) Purple - 3/32" plastic tube (Tail surfaces support) For simplicity I decided to build this out of plastic...I originally had planned on using brass or aluminum, but decided that Plastic gives me a lot more flexibility and control, and is easier to work with. I bought a simple magnetic whiteboard (small) and some magnets... one type comes in a roll that I could cut and use as guides (see the image below), the other type are very strong map-magnets that I used to hold down clamps as shown. Once both side structures were completed my problem was how to keep it all square when adding the connecting structure... what I came up and why I am using a magnetic building board, was using the magnets and several 2" angles.. I used the clamps to pin the structure flat.. this insured the structure was square in width and height. Note that I am using the part of the plan marked TOP, this is because I am adding the structural supports for the top of the fuselage (it is top down in these images) As I moved down the fuselage, I had to slide the angles down and move the clamps at each frame station due to the curvature of the rear half of the fuselage. ... I then rotated the entire thing 180 degrees so I could do the same for the bottom structural supports. Note that I have moved the frame to the part of the plan marked BOTTOM. The completed fuselage frame:
  20. I use 3DS MAX.. I've been using it since version 1.. oh so many years ago.
  21. I was going to wait to post this build thread until I got farther along, but thought that it might be a good complement to Garage21’s Sopwith Camel thread and kkarlsen’s amazing Fokker Triplane thread. By the way Kent, your build thread is what inspired me to start this build, so thank you. After working on my 1/16 scale Stearman and realizing that I had bitten off more than I could chew with my first model in decades, I lost interest and eventually stopped work on it a while back and decided to look for something that would excite me more and start again... maybe in a smaller scale with something a little simpler in order to move quicker. Then I saw Kent's Fokker Dr.I thread as mentioned and decided to jump back in. I decided on a 1:24th scale, built from scratch Fokker E.III from 1915: Jerry Boucher, the artist of the above Fokker E.I painting (© J.J.Boucher) kindly gave his permission for me to use it in my post. Please visit his website, his work speaks for itself in its quality and presentation: www.the-vaw.com This was a very simple aircraft and there are some excellent resources online... though I am going to have to recreate the scale drawings necessary to build this plane as there are no complete plans easily accessible online (that I have found). As you will see I will be building the aircraft in the computer in order to generate good usable scale drawings and then will use those as the basis for my build, which will mostly be plastic and resin, with brass and/or aluminum parts used as necessary. I will also be building many of the difficult parts and assemblies in the computer and using my 3D printer to supply them. This entails a lot of trial and error as you will see. For those interested I have an Anycubic Photon 3D printer which is an LCD (Digital Light Processing) DLP printer... basically the 3D model file is sliced into masks of varying size (set when setting up the 3D model), the light from the LCD shines through the unmasked portions of the 3D file hardening the printed part one layer at a time as the build plate rises from the resin tank. At the finest setting it can be set to an accuracy of .1mm, which provides amazing detail. Here is my 3D fuselage (frame only) model... I will discuss the fuselage assembly first:
  22. I am not sure of the size of the turnbuckles that Sopwith used... I do know they came in varying sizes dependent on function. The main German turnbuckles had a barrel (the center brass part) that was 50mm long.. that would be about 3mm in 1/16th scale. I would double check the sizes used before committing to your current plan.. which looks awesome by the way. This page has a lot of information on turnbuckles: WW1 Aircraft Rigging Bil
×
×
  • Create New...