Revell Hawker Hunter - Swiss J-4013

[Derek B]

Thank you for 'hard lessons learned' painting tips Art - noted!

 

Those canopy masks look good; I hope that the rest of your progress is smoother going forward.

 

Cheers

 

Derek

[amurray]

17 hours ago, SwissFighters said:

Feeling your pain...and also the responsibility of having encouraged you to go with the dayglo in the first place! Perhaps a lesson learned on behalf of the many!

 

I was always going to do Day-Glo  The only question was whether to stress (weather) the upper surfaces.

[amurray]

I am having a world of problems painting this model.  Some problems are my fault, others - I'm not sure.  I've again encountered blistering.  It happened again as I was painting the silver for the interior flap wells.  At each of four corners the paint blistered.  Between the corners was fine.  LSP Madmax also encountered unique blistering when painting his Hunter recently.  The last time it happened on my Hunter was small areas on the leading edges of the wings.

 

With my George posted here a few months ago I started using Mr. Leveling Thinner.  At first I thought it to be The Answer to thinning and painting.  But even with the George, strange things happened.  Flat coats came out semi-gloss.  With my Hunter, gloss coats came out semi-gloss or even flat.

 

The blistering is never over large areas, just small areas (see photos).  I am not a chemist but I am beginning to suspect that Mr. Leveling Thinner is too "hot."  I have NEVER seen such blistering in almost 35 years of spray painting models.

 

Your comments and suggestions are appreciated.

 

 

BTW I've now masked and re-painted the Day-Glo Orange areas 8 times.  VERY difficult - for me, anyway.  

 

[amurray]

A question occurs to me:  Is this a form of "orange peel" caused by the paint swirling in the corners and causing too much to accumulate?

 

I might accept that except the previous blistering was on flat wing leading edges.

Edited July 12 by amurray
Clarification

[Breaker]

I've used MLT for years and not had any issues like your describing. That isn't orange peel that your getting, it's a reaction. 

 

Has it damaged the plastic underneath? I note you've used Testors as well, it could be an interaction between acrylics and enamals, they don't always get along. 

[amurray]

14 hours ago, Breaker said:

I've used MLT for years and not had any issues like your describing. That isn't orange peel that your getting, it's a reaction. 

 

Has it damaged the plastic underneath? I note you've used Testors as well, it could be an interaction between acrylics and enamels, they don't always get along. 

No acrylics used - only lacquers and enamels.  The paint in the bad areas was like goo.  I only had to use my finger to remove the bad areas.  The same paint in other areas (ex:  wheel well where there was damage and no damage) was solid as stone.  But I do agree with you that there is some sort of chemical reaction taking place.  I just can't figure it out.  Too bad the late modeler Charles Metz, Ph.D. Chemistry, is no longer with us to help.

 

That's the bad news.  The good news is I will tonight post photos of the corrected, corrected, corrected, corrected (ad nauseam) paint job! 

[amurray]

FINALLY I have the basic painting done and can actually start to BUILD THE DAMN MODEL!!!  .  A recap of my mistakes:

1. If doing only the basic gray undersides one doesn't have to worry about the sequence of construction.  Everything is painted gray.  But if doing multiple colors on the undersides as I did one must take into account the blisters, the pylons and any nose treatments and adjust the construction sequence accordingly.  
2. I followed the instructions and added the blisters and pylons only to realize I would have a hellava masking problem with my chosen paint job.  It is best to paint them separately and add them later.
3. If building a Swiss version, the same applies to the numerous antennae/sensors on the undersides of the wings.  They interfere with the decals.
4. As stated before, fluorescent Day-Glo Orange is a pain to paint.  It doesn't cover well and it runs.  Conversely it is hard to cover over it when it does run.

 

 

In keeping with our previous discussions on colors note that I've faded the Day-Glo Orange on the upper surfaces.   I used Testors Day-Glo Orange, Tamiya Orange Yellow and Tamiya Yellow.  (The latter Tamiya paints were never a part of the painting problems I've referenced.)  AND - NO!!! - I'm NOT going to attempt the CHRYSANTHEMUM  paint scheme that this aircraft sometimes carried.  It's call "artistic license." 

 

I've been a bit frustrated painting this kit.  The kit itself is great!  But when modeling frustration strikes you just remember that there are those who struggle even more mightily on a daily basis:

 

 

 

[Shujaa]

Good to see You have overcome the painting issues. Look's like You're on the home-stretch now...

 

Kind regards,

 

Rudy.

[amurray]

BTW several who have built this kit have remarked on the suicidal aspects of having to mount the nose gear very early in the build.  I did so, not seeing a way around doing so (though others found a way).  It caught up with me but not in the way I imagined it would - snapped off.  Instead constant hitting the nose gear caused the wheel well to become loose.  It puzzled me at first until I realized what had happened.  It was easy to re-cement it.

[Zola25]

I really like the Day-Glo orange in combination with the camouflage. It looks really cool

 

Niels

[mozart]

For some undefinable reason I have found Hunters the most difficult aeroplane to paint, even in a standard camo scheme, ever! And don’t even mention the underwing serials and undercarriage doors! You’re making a fine job Art! 

[amurray]

16 hours ago, mozart said:

For some undefinable reason I have found Hunters the most difficult aeroplane to paint, even in a standard camo scheme, ever! And don’t even mention the underwing serials and undercarriage doors! You’re making a fine job Art! 

 

Perhaps coincidence but several builders of the Hunter kit have made known to me their difficulties painting the kit, with paint reaction being a constant refrain.  I did not wash this kit before starting it as I should have done.  I keep thinking the cause of the problem is a surface reaction due to a mold release agent.  But I'm just guessing here.  I recommend you wash thoroughly as a precaution.  

[amurray]

Now for the hard part - for me at least.  Suggestions appreciated.  I must paint the quarter-divided black and white circles. 

 

 

 

 

I used my Shadow Hobby circle cutter to cut out a circle.  I'll first use the circle mask to paint a primer coat.  Next I'll paint white.  I'll then cut the center piece that I saved into 4 quarters, place the requisite 2 quarter masks and then paint the two open areas black.

 

I was going to cut out stencils of the numbers - large and small - but found perfect matches in my decal spares.  The only thing I need to cut out is the "J."  "Better to be lucky than good!"

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 21 by amurray
Wrong photo

[SwissFighters]

Hi Art, just wondering if you are aware of Matterhorn Circle's decals for the Swiss hunters? They are better than the original Revell decals I think, and obviously newer and a bit more robust. There are decals for early and late aircraft. Printed by Fantasy Decals. 
Tony

[amurray]

4 minutes ago, SwissFighters said:

Hi Art, just wondering if you are aware of Matterhorn Circle's decals for the Swiss hunters? They are better than the original Revell decals I think, and obviously newer and a bit more robust. There are decals for early and late aircraft. Printed by Fantasy Decals. 
Tony

I was not aware of them.  Do you have contact info?

 

You are correct, the Revell number decals are a bit too large and not very distinct.  The Aeromaster Swiss Hunter decal aircraft numbers are sharp but much too thin.  I was going to use the Eagle Strike white 45 degree US decals for my numbers.  Almost spot on!  But the letters are too large and don't match the numbers.  The numbers for the nose and nose gear cover are from an old P-51 kit.  They also match perfectly.