ChrisS Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 for some reason silver plastic. Once sanded it leaves a shadow of the panel lines. Yeah, that's it...strange. The surface is flat as can be, but at some angles you can still see all the rivets and lines. Thanks for the warm welcome guys, nice to be back in here with y'all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Bellis Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 It's been a while, but I'm finally back to share a build here again. Had I known that this P-38 kit & goodies ("improgments" aside) would be all it took to get you back on the board, I'd have traded it to you years ago. D ChrisS 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahman104 Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Good start! I love a good P-38 build. I think it may be next on my list. After the B-17, P-39, Firefly, CH-47, Mi-24, Mi-8, P-40 In the meantime I shall be watching with interest Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Awesome stuff, love to see some old school plastic engineering. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Nice start, Chris! Decals should be there by the end of the week! ChrisS 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Chris Good to see you back ...will this be one of your foil jobs? I loved your Jug. Best Geoff ChrisS 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 Still a decent amount of surgery left. Here the booms are severed for the Rutman replacements. Some kit part warping required a spreader to be made for one of the cowlings to get stuff to line up well enough. Don't look too deep in there...it's fairly grizzly Rutman turbos are in and the extended windscreen panel from the J and beyond has been removed. There's a lot of silver styrene in the bin under the bench right now.Sometime in the not too distant future these shapes will all come together to make the basis for an early P-38 lightning. The Rutman boom sections can be seen here along with the tails and chins. The cowling chins will require a few days of thinking and drinking (scotch on ice) before the constitution and bravery reach the correct levels! @Geoff: Hey man! Taking a foiling break after that monster (1/18 P-47). This will be a beat-to-heck OD/NG scheme. I will however use foil for the oleos and gear inspection panels Hans and shbemo13 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Welcome back Chris Looking really good so far! Ron ChrisS 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Nice! Fair bit-O-work there already. Looking forward to more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Things that make you go hmmmm. Might need to call in the Rutman here... I followed the instruction for removing the cowling chins (its different for port and starboard sides, and goes back to the front wall of the gear well), however the resin chin piece seems to be both long, and also wide at the back (see pics below). Looks like I'll have to both shorten the resin piece by about 2mm and also taper the back of the piece on both sides to fade it into the width of the boom. WWJD? What Would Jerry Do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Great work so far! Is that conversion meant for the Revell kit or the Trumpeter kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) The problem here is the newer conversion set (hard to tell from your pics but it looks like the newer set) was made for the trumpy kit. You will have to make adjustments but since you are fearless enough to tackle a major backdate like this it should not be a big deal?? The good thing in this case,as someone already pointed out,is that these Revell kits are now pretty cheap if you mess it up. I can get them usually for about 15 bucks or less. But then again,for even a sort of experienced plastic warrior there shouldn't be really any task that results in the placing of a kit in the recycle bin? Heheheh Even though you may be tempted? Maybe it would help if I put my P-38 backdate build back to the front? If it would help at all. I would need assistance though,as all the key words I tried didn't help me with the forums' search engine. J Edited November 12, 2015 by JRutman BiggTim, Rick Griewski and ChrisS 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Yes this is the Gray Matter boxing so I'm assuming you re-engineered it for the trumpy kit. And you're correct about my tolerance, this is in no way stopping me, merely a small speed bump my friend! Given what we're looking at here, how would you suggest I proceed? 1) Shorten and reshape the resin piece 2) Pull and re-fashion the boom side walls to accept the resin piece as it is I'm rolling both around in my head at this point. The trouble with #1 is getting the blend and reduction in shape correct and breathing in all that resin dust (yes I'll wear a mask), and the trouble with #2 is that the boom reduction will be a lot more dramatic and harder to resolve near the trailing edge of the wing More scotch! Lee White and BiggTim 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) Man, I'm glad you guys are talking about this BEFORE I start my Revell back-date!! Never been so glad I procrastinated. FWIW, I think I'd consider a mix of both 1 and 2. I think you're right about the trailing edge problem with #2, and I think you might avoid much of that if you both narrow the resin piece and widen the fuse sides. Just my .02. Edited November 12, 2015 by BiggTim ChrisS 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 I would attack the resin part myself and conform it to the plastic parts. J BiggTim and ChrisS 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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