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Revell Bell X-1 Finished.


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OK gents, things were starting to get out of control with all the started kits hanging around. I have been working on a few of late (for example the Lightning) and decided that I would see which one would take precedence based upon the model that was closest to the closed fuselage stage.

 

There was a bit of a story behind this model. I started this one about 10 months ago, with some parts glued together etc. I was contained in a large zip-lock bag. I then moved house and couldn't find it again no matter how hard I tried. It was only until I did a bit of a stash stocktake a couple of weeks ago that I opened the Trumpeter F-105 box, and there it was! I was so happy that I re-started it. Also this one should't be to long a build and as I am on holidays at the moment and thought that I would rather have a couple of finished models from stalled projects (like my Sopwith Triplane and this one) than half a half completed big build.

 

So into the WIP.

 

A big downfall of the Revell kit is the really small engine nozzles that look like a `sausage roll being thrown down a hallway'. 

 

IMG_3435_zps8e682602.jpg

 

I scratchbuilt a new set of nozzles and cast a copy for use on other projects. I added some more detail to the resin part and also included the taper inside each cone so that it looks much more realistic,

 

IMG_3436_zpsf56de010.jpg

 

Problem solved

 

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I scrubbed off all of the detail of the kit panel and replaced it with the excellent airscale bezels and decal instruments. I also added the switches from stretched sprue, and to save painting them, I used some silver sprue from the Revell Mirage.

 

IMG_3450_zps33a16c0d.jpg

 

To tart the panel up even more, I gave it a coat of Tamiya Semi gloss clear to give it all the same sheen, and then applied clear canopy glue to each instrument to simulate the glass.

 

IMG_3443_zps46d01f7d.jpg

 

Here is the completed side panel. I think there is a bit of fantasy with the configuration of the part on the behalf of Revell, but I thought it would be OK, save for the same instrument bezel treatment as above. The stencil date has come from this excellent sheet as reviewed here:

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234952979-bell-x-1-decals-and-masks-132-mh-models/

 

IMG_3454_zps5747de47.jpg

 

Here is the control column, not quite finished yet. 

 

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Stay tuned, this one is definitely going supersonic!

 

Eric

 

 

 

 

Edited by ericg
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cool bird this one, this one is on my wishlist of a build.

 

Going to follow this one, looks real good so far.

 

A Question, how and what did you use for that instrument glass?, they look great.

 

/Mal

Edited by Mal_Belford
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Moving right along, I replaced the moulded on kit seatbelts with those from RB Productions. These are excellent belts that look the real deal if care is taken to construct them. Rather than complicate matters too much, I glued the belts over the top of the kit ones. 

 

Now one belt is missing.... During the construction of one of the buckles, it took a leap from the tweezers that I was holding it in and a couple of seconds later I heard it land in places distant to me. After a few minutes search it didn't show up so rather than throw away valuable modelling time looking for it I will order another set. It is easy enough to access to add the other side.

 

Cockpit before fuselage close up

 

IMG_3459_zps98c818a7.jpg

 

Once the fuselage is closed up, there is quite a large and very visible hole behind the instrument panel. This just had to be filled, so I pre drilled holes in each instrument before close up such that they would accept copper wire. I thought it would be easy enough to wire up the panel after close up, giving it a much more natural look.

 

IMG_3463_zps5b1154d8.jpg

 

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Here is a weird plastic shape......

 

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Which becomes one of two intakes on the rear of each side of the fuselage

 

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I have also been having a play with my recently aquired Cutting Edge X-1E conversion. They will look good together in the display cabinet.

 

IMG_3473_zps7a32ab5e.jpg

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This model requires a complete re-scribe. It features some weird curves that traditional rulers and dymo tape were having trouble following. We recently purchased a house that had some aluminium venetian blinds in it that where too long, like these ones:

 


 

Upon removing the 10 or so blinds to shorten them, I discovered that each individual blind would make an excellent straight edge, that was in reasonable supply and was easy to work with. To rescribe, I simply place a line or blob of blu-tack that will hold the straight edge in place,

 

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Firmly place the straight edge in position

 

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The aluminum can be easily cut to desired shapes to give a stable template to scribe with

 

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Here is another trick I have been using. There are many instances where I have to spray small areas with primer and want to use the excellent Tamiya fine surface primer. I have heard of a few ways of decanting the spray pack and recently saw one of my mates use a similiar method to this. I have refined it slightly, hopefully making it more effective.

 

Take the primer, a pipette and a spare glass paint jar

 

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Cut the bulb from the pipette and also some of the smaller end so that it fits like this (now with a divergent nozzle that it slows the spray  down) :

 

 IMG_3482_zpsd7def4ed.jpg

 

Now it is just a simple matter of spraying it into the jar, no waste. 

 

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I have heard of guys letting it sit for a while to de-gas, I prefer to stir it with a metal stirrer, which speeds up the process so that you are then able to use it almost straight away. I have also noticed that out of the few different ways that I have tried decanting the spray pack, this one is the one that requires the least de-gassing.

 

IMG_3486_zpse294e750.jpg

 

Spray away!

 

IMG_3487_zps51344f40.jpg

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Good tips Eric! I decant using drinking straws with flexible elbows, but the result requires a lot of degassing. Stirring it no good either unless you have it in a large container, as it's extremely volatile! I must try this alternative method of yours, as avoiding most of the degassing hassle is worth it alone.

 

Kev

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That trick with blinds could be enhanced. If you cut a narrow strips from them, they can be easily bended to follow the curves. Sometimes I put a both sided duct tape (is it correct? simply a tape, with adhesive on both sides) on one side of the strip, so I can just put that tape to a model, it stays there...

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