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Posted

This should teach me to check the group builds regularly... too sweet...

Too true Jeroen, it's amazing at how much stuff I've missed myself and only discover a thread on an amazing build after it's pages long or already done.

 

Thanks for looking in.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

Posted

No idea on that one I'm afraid. The forums seem to a be a little unresponsive of late, so I can only imagine that this is affecting post submission on occasion. Perhaps if it happens again, leave the broken post as is and send me a PM so I can take a look. You can always just start another new post so you can keep going.Kev

Thanks Kevin, will do.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

Posted

Deep breath,1st ever comment.Nervous observing genius! I have been watching quietly for months,in total awe of what I see from so many of you,unnamed lest I miss some-one.But this Wolf,I find just amazing. Be it the equisite photography,or the standard of work,I know not. It was about time I said something! I will continue to enjoy all of your work,all of you.

Posted

Hey Wolfe.

 

Just enjoying re reading what you've posted and saw that you covered the instrument faces with punched out clear sheet. What type and thickness of material did you use to represent this clear glass?

 

Looking forward to you next posts, Chuck.

Posted

Hey Wolfe.

 

Just enjoying re reading what you've posted and saw that you covered the instrument faces with punched out clear sheet. What type and thickness of material did you use to represent this clear glass?

 

Looking forward to you next posts, Chuck.

Thank Chuck, I used a couple of different sources for the "glass" faces. I used the thinnest sheet of clear styrene I had on hand, not sure of it's exact thickness, and some of the clear material supplied with the Airscale instrument decals. I found that the clear styrene punches out in my Waldron punch and die set very easily while the stuff supplied by Airscale doesn't so much. It wants to tear rather than punch out cleanly due to the fact it's very thin. For that stuff I use an appropriate sized piece of brass tubing that's had both the outside and inside diameter ground down to form a very sharp edge. The brass tube is then twisted in to the clear material to cut out the clear disc. It takes a bit of practice but it works. It also helps that my bench is partially covered with a piece of glass as the underlying surface for this procedure must be very hard.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

 

Posted (edited)

This looks great. Good to see you starting up this thread. Your Fokker is really looking nice, all of the detail painting is helping to bring it all together. Can't wait to see it put together and with some paint on it.

 

Thanks for the tips on my build too, they helped out.

 

Any word on the markings that you're going to do?

 

 

Matt :party0023:

Edited by scvrobeson
Posted

Looking good my man.

Not bad for a beginner :popcorn: :DodgeBall:

Thanks Mike, I know eh? Only my second kit too. The Spitfire was my first! :whistle:

 

Cheers,

Wolf

Posted

This looks great. Good to see you starting up this thread. Your Fokker is really looking nice, all of the detail painting is helping to bring it all together. Can't wait to see it put together and with some paint on it.

 

Thanks for the tips on my build too, they helped out.

 

Any word on the markings that you're going to do?

 

 

Matt :party0023:

Thanks Matt, I was planning on doing the yellow and blue DVII with the dragon on the side. I really liked the look of artwork.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

Posted (edited)

I spent some time at the bench today and got a good start on adding some of the Taurus Models resin details for the 200HP Mercedes engine. The resin is softer than what I'm used to but is very easy to work with. The detail is incredible and considering the size of the pieces the detail is truly amazing. Well worth the price paid in my opinion! I'm really thankful for my 5 diopter magnifying lamp when working with this stuff, trust me! The accompanying pics have text added to explain what I did. Hopefully it all makes sense. None of the subassemblies has been glued together at this point to aid in detail painting the individual items. Next up will be the addition of the valve spring assemblies and the rocker arms. I also have the Taurus Models spark plugs, again very tiny and very detailed.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

 

Fokker-15_zpsc26915d8.jpg

 

Fokker-16_zpsa4c6491e.jpg

 

Fokker-17_zps3939e1c0.jpg

 

Fokker-18_zps8f7bc261.jpg

 

Fokker-19_zps758a0e82.jpg

Edited by Wolf Buddee
Posted

Fantastic detail on that engine. The undulations on those manifold rings is just great. Pretty steady drilling and cutting hand to boot!

 

Sincerely,

Mark

Posted

Amazing - I was about to ask whether you would be using Taurus' products and Bang! there they were! Your build is so clean, so neat and so beguiling as always Wolf. I love watching your work (along with others) and will be following with huge interest !

 

I had a long discussion elsewhere about a product called Prym which I understand WnW's recommend for rigging - it has the same properties as E-Z line but, as Brian found out, takes paint a little better. I wondered whether you'd seen this?

 

Grant

 

PS: Glad to see Guy5y posting here - welcome Guy - he's a damn fine chap and I hope he feels at home here at LSP

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