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Another Fokker Finished!


Wolf Buddee

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Lookin good Wolfe!

 

On those valve stems, I take it your cutting them down at the top, is that right?

 

How did you end up attaching them at the bottom?

 

I have the same items to use on my W.4 build and would appreciate any tips you can offer.

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Wolf

Looking fantabulos as they say; simply outstanding work. Seeing the little critters is one thing but not feeding the caret monster is something else again. I don't think even in my younger days, I wouldn't have lost more then a few.

Looking good

Keep 'em coming

Thanks Peter, believe me I drop 'em more often than I care to admit. Mostly 'cause I don't want to put too much pressure on the part with my tweezers which will undoubtedly cause the part to plink off in to nirvana never to be seen again. What I've been doing for many years now is to put on a big ol' BBQ apron that's had it's bottom hem attached the the underside edge of my work bench. That way if anything drops it falls in to the apron saving me hours of scouring the concrete floor (I model in the basement) looking for something smaller than most spiders in this neck of the woods. I've also grown weary of being on my hands and knees with a bright flashlight. Just not fun anymore! A white apron makes most parts easy to see when they fall. Trust me this works incredibly well.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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Lookin good Wolfe! On those valve stems, I take it your cutting them down at the top, is that right? How did you end up attaching them at the bottom? I have the same items to use on my W.4 build and would appreciate any tips you can offer.

Hey Chuck, absolutely cut them down from the top VERY CAREFULLY! I used my sprue cutters to make the initial cut and then used a 320 grit sanding stick to straighten out the cut and adjust the final length of the valve stem. The bottom end was the easy part. I cut off the kit moulded valve springs just a hair above the top of the cylinder head. That left me with a nice white circle of stressed plastic indicating were the valve spring had been cut off. I used the very tip of a #11 blade to "centre punch" the centre of the circle. That prevented my drill bit from wandering off centre, making sure to drill at the angle the Taurus Models valve spring assemblies would sit. I started with a smaller drill bit and them worked progressively larger until the hole in the cylinder head accepted the end of the valve spring.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Cheers,

Wolf

Edited by Wolf Buddee
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Guest Peterpools

Wolf

I've taken up your suggestion a while back and it does help a lot. Of course, parts do propel thenmselves into orbit and are still rarely ever seen again. I thought the fun part of the hobby is crawling on your hands and knees looking for surprises and 'buried treasure'!

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The other day I was looking for a part, from my Pfalz D.XII, that had fallen onto the carpeted floor under my work bench, part being half of one of the ammo chutes.

In the process of being on my hands and knees with a flashlight, what do I find? Not the part, but TWO (mind you) .5 x 3mm cut tubes I'm using as turn buckles!!

May never ever happen again. BTW, I DID find the part latter on. Wolf, what method do you use to fasten the apron to the work bench?

Will

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Wolf

I've taken up your suggestion a while back and it does help a lot. Of course, parts do propel thenmselves into orbit and are still rarely ever seen again. I thought the fun part of the hobby is crawling on your hands and knees looking for surprises and 'buried treasure'!

LOL Peter! Nope, gutter crawlin' fer treasure just doesn't cut it anymore for me. I still have to do it from time to time but I don't find it very enjoyable. Even less so if I can't find what I dropped.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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The other day I was looking for a part, from my Pfalz D.XII, that had fallen onto the carpeted floor under my work bench, part being half of one of the ammo chutes.

In the process of being on my hands and knees with a flashlight, what do I find? Not the part, but TWO (mind you) .5 x 3mm cut tubes I'm using as turn buckles!!

May never ever happen again. BTW, I DID find the part latter on. Wolf, what method do you use to fasten the apron to the work bench?

Will

Yes Will, sometimes you get lucky on a search. Not often enough though in my experience.

 

The apron is attached to the underside of the work bench with good old fashion Velcro. The wife sowed one part on the the apron and I used contact cement for the other part. Using small wood screws works better than contact cement though, trust me.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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The engine gets her sparking bolts and some wires. Although I'm not finished adding the spark plug wires I thought I would post a couple of pics of the cylinder heads with the Taurus Models spark plugs added. These are incredible in their detail and really add a lot to the look of the cylinder heads. Each plug was drilled out at the back and a small length of stretched sprue added. This ensured that I had a much better attachment point rather than a simple butt join. The ceramic white insulator portion was sprayed with Tamiya fine white primer and the metal part was painted with Citadel BoltGun. The plug wire material is from Detail Master.

 

Hopefully I'll get all the rest of the plug wires done on Wednesday. Then I'll be on to the bottom end of the engine and that should go a lot quicker. :yahoo:

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

Fokker-25_zps40c2540f.jpg

 

Fokker-26_zpsb83015a8.jpg

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Looks great Wolfe. Did you fabricate the plug attachments or do they come with those wires?

Hey Chuck,

 

The plug wire connectors are made from cut down 1/48th photo-etch turnbuckles from PART. The hole at the end of the turnbuckle (connector) fits perfectly over the end of the spark plug.

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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Coming along very nicely Wolf! the plugs and connectors look awesome! i've been running into the same issues with the plugs that you had.. i just drilled the holes in the engine a little bigger and sank the plugs down to the hex nut.. hope they stay in! Was wondering what you were using for the plug leads? i was planning on using .40 braided string that the wooden-ship modelers use for rigging, but i like the look of yours better.

 

cheers, and keep the pictures coming!

Jerry

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