berneckir Posted February 24, 2013 Posted February 24, 2013 Wolf, I continue to be astounded by your brilliant work! Thanks for sharing. Rich
ChuckT Posted February 25, 2013 Posted February 25, 2013 Lookin good Wolfe! On those valve stems, I take it your cutting them down at the top, is that right? How did you end up attaching them at the bottom? I have the same items to use on my W.4 build and would appreciate any tips you can offer.
Wolf Buddee Posted February 25, 2013 Author Posted February 25, 2013 Wolf, I continue to be astounded by your brilliant work! Thanks for sharing. Rich Thanks Rich, kind words indeed! Cheers, Wolf
Wolf Buddee Posted February 25, 2013 Author Posted February 25, 2013 (edited) Lookin good Wolfe! On those valve stems, I take it your cutting them down at the top, is that right? How did you end up attaching them at the bottom? I have the same items to use on my W.4 build and would appreciate any tips you can offer.Hey Chuck, absolutely cut them down from the top VERY CAREFULLY! I used my sprue cutters to make the initial cut and then used a 320 grit sanding stick to straighten out the cut and adjust the final length of the valve stem. The bottom end was the easy part. I cut off the kit moulded valve springs just a hair above the top of the cylinder head. That left me with a nice white circle of stressed plastic indicating were the valve spring had been cut off. I used the very tip of a #11 blade to "centre punch" the centre of the circle. That prevented my drill bit from wandering off centre, making sure to drill at the angle the Taurus Models valve spring assemblies would sit. I started with a smaller drill bit and them worked progressively larger until the hole in the cylinder head accepted the end of the valve spring. Hope that helps, Cheers, Wolf Edited February 25, 2013 by Wolf Buddee
WillScarlet Posted February 25, 2013 Posted February 25, 2013 The other day I was looking for a part, from my Pfalz D.XII, that had fallen onto the carpeted floor under my work bench, part being half of one of the ammo chutes. In the process of being on my hands and knees with a flashlight, what do I find? Not the part, but TWO (mind you) .5 x 3mm cut tubes I'm using as turn buckles!! May never ever happen again. BTW, I DID find the part latter on. Wolf, what method do you use to fasten the apron to the work bench? Will
Wolf Buddee Posted February 26, 2013 Author Posted February 26, 2013 The other day I was looking for a part, from my Pfalz D.XII, that had fallen onto the carpeted floor under my work bench, part being half of one of the ammo chutes. In the process of being on my hands and knees with a flashlight, what do I find? Not the part, but TWO (mind you) .5 x 3mm cut tubes I'm using as turn buckles!! May never ever happen again. BTW, I DID find the part latter on. Wolf, what method do you use to fasten the apron to the work bench? Will Yes Will, sometimes you get lucky on a search. Not often enough though in my experience. The apron is attached to the underside of the work bench with good old fashion Velcro. The wife sowed one part on the the apron and I used contact cement for the other part. Using small wood screws works better than contact cement though, trust me. Cheers, Wolf
Wolf Buddee Posted February 26, 2013 Author Posted February 26, 2013 The engine gets her sparking bolts and some wires. Although I'm not finished adding the spark plug wires I thought I would post a couple of pics of the cylinder heads with the Taurus Models spark plugs added. These are incredible in their detail and really add a lot to the look of the cylinder heads. Each plug was drilled out at the back and a small length of stretched sprue added. This ensured that I had a much better attachment point rather than a simple butt join. The ceramic white insulator portion was sprayed with Tamiya fine white primer and the metal part was painted with Citadel BoltGun. The plug wire material is from Detail Master. Hopefully I'll get all the rest of the plug wires done on Wednesday. Then I'll be on to the bottom end of the engine and that should go a lot quicker. Cheers, Wolf
ChuckT Posted February 26, 2013 Posted February 26, 2013 Looks great Wolfe. Did you fabricate the plug attachments or do they come with those wires?
Wolf Buddee Posted February 26, 2013 Author Posted February 26, 2013 Looks great Wolfe. Did you fabricate the plug attachments or do they come with those wires? Hey Chuck, The plug wire connectors are made from cut down 1/48th photo-etch turnbuckles from PART. The hole at the end of the turnbuckle (connector) fits perfectly over the end of the spark plug. Cheers, Wolf
ladder4boy Posted February 26, 2013 Posted February 26, 2013 Coming along very nicely Wolf! the plugs and connectors look awesome! i've been running into the same issues with the plugs that you had.. i just drilled the holes in the engine a little bigger and sank the plugs down to the hex nut.. hope they stay in! Was wondering what you were using for the plug leads? i was planning on using .40 braided string that the wooden-ship modelers use for rigging, but i like the look of yours better. cheers, and keep the pictures coming! Jerry
ChuckT Posted February 26, 2013 Posted February 26, 2013 Very nice Wolfe! Great use of an already available part.
LSP_Ron Posted February 27, 2013 Posted February 27, 2013 Wolf, that's insane buddy! having built this engine multipul times I know exactly how small these details are. Wow,
miamiangler Posted February 27, 2013 Posted February 27, 2013 Hey Chuck, absolutely cut them down from the top VERY CAREFULLY! I used my sprue cutters to make the initial cut and then used a 320 grit sanding stick to straighten out the cut and adjust the final length of the valve stem. The bottom end was the easy part. I cut off the kit moulded valve springs just a hair above the top of the cylinder head. That left me with a nice white circle of stressed plastic indicating were the valve spring had been cut off. I used the very tip of a #11 blade to "centre punch" the centre of the circle. That prevented my drill bit from wandering off centre, making sure to drill at the angle the Taurus Models valve spring assemblies would sit. I started with a smaller drill bit and them worked progressively larger until the hole in the cylinder head accepted the end of the valve spring. Hope that helps, Cheers, Wolf Hi Wolf , Your work on the engine is awesome .As for the valve spring stems ! they are there on the real one .They should not be cut on the top ! Just letting you know . Willi
Wolf Buddee Posted February 27, 2013 Author Posted February 27, 2013 Hi Wolf , Your work on the engine is awesome .As for the valve spring stems ! they are there on the real one .They should not be cut on the top ! Just letting you know . Willi Hi Willi, yes I realize the valve stems should be there but I cut mine down in length to allow the rocker arms to sit more naturally. You definitely don't want to cut them off. Thanks for your input, it's always appreciated! Cheers, Wolf
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