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WnW AMC DH-2 7907 ---- 32 Sqn Sept 1916 ---- DONE!


Out2gtcha

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Thanks Greg, and thank to you other guys for your nice comments as well. I love coming to a place that is so positive.............its why Im at LSP everyday.

Its also why I love doing WIPs here............you can show your work, good bad or indifferent, and you get just what you need; encouragement, or questions answered, or even some constructive criticism if needed.

 

Greg, Im looking forward to the fuse shading as well, since I now know how it will turn out, if I use the same technique I used on the wings. The only trepidation I have, is WnW has you put on the front cowl, and this makes a join mark between it and the cockpit opening fuse part. I need to fill this inside and out, as on the real deal, it looks like its all one piece.

If its NOT once piece, the joint is not right where those two panels meet. This could prove to be tough, since the interior is already painted, Ill have to find a way to mask it off, fill that joint, and then Ill shade and paint the fuse shadows, then paint the fuse its DH-2 gray.

 

Thanks again guys!

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You're right about the seam line where the upper cap meets the rest of the cockpit nacelle. On the outside, it looks as though it's partially obscured by the leather coaming and the spare ammunition drum holders. On the inside though it'll be a little tricky. Careful application of Mr. Surfacer 500 maybe?

 

Cheers,

Wolf

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You're right about the seam line where the upper cap meets the rest of the cockpit nacelle. On the outside, it looks as though it's partially obscured by the leather coaming and the spare ammunition drum holders. On the inside though it'll be a little tricky. Careful application of Mr. Surfacer 500 maybe?

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

Yep Wolf, I think your on it..........I need something that I can fill with, that is going to be easy to sand, since I wont have much elbow room to move around on the inside.

 

I think Ill mask off the interior with Tamiya tape, then try to fill the initial larger gap with some CA and micro balloons, then the left over bit that most will see, Ill try to build up some thin layers of Mr Surfacer.

 

Only problem is we cant get ANYTHING Mr Hobby Color round here.................they stopped sending us the stuff!!! I MISS MR SURFACER!!!

 

Not sure why, but you literally cant get Mr Surfacer here ANYwhere these days. I do have one single jar of Mr White color base 1000 Ive been hording on, as well as some Tamiya regular and fine primers, so hopefully, I can get-er-done.

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Thanks again guys. This time I spent the afternoon yesterday putting the PC.10 (AKA Olive drab) on. First up, I closed the fuse up, with the front fairing on, and got some filler on it. I also got some Mr surfacer on the inside of the front cowling joint to get that erroneous gap filled in the interior. I set the fuselage aside to dry.

The fit here, like elsewhere is excellent –

 

DSC01212.jpg

 

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I moved on to get my previous hard work on the undersides of the wing protected, then I started in with some of the PC.10 lightened just a bit with some white, and proceeded to paint just the ribs/tape themselves, in plan for a bit of visual interest to the top, and break up all that Olive drab –

 

DSC01215.jpg

 

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Next, after painting all the upper ribs with this lighted PC.10, I masked off the ribs after they were dry, and I ended up with this –

 

DSC01217.jpg

 

Then I covered the whole upper wing with NON-lighted PC.10, and then unmasked the rib tape to see what I had –

 

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Now, similarly to the underside, I took some more PC.10 and thinned it WAY down and coved the whole wing again.

 

Then, I followed that up, with some more PC.10 that was also way thin, but mixed with some of the CDL color from the underside to make a highlighted color to reproduce a bit of fading on the edges of the lower wings uppers, and all across the open top of the top wing.

 

The effect may not be 100% accurate, but I have seen what looks like fading between the ribs of the drab color, and this seems to have at least broken up all that solid color for some visual interest.

Here is where I ended up. I quite like the effect. Its subtle in some light, and looks really faded and forked up on others. Again, like the shadowing on the bottoms of the wings, this effect on teh PC.10 was almost impossible to capture correctly with the camera. This comes off more faded in person, and you can pick up on the differences of the rib tape more easily too, but again, you can catch the overall drift here –

 

DSC01230.jpg

 

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MORE…………………….

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Now I moved on to the shadowing effect on the fuselage. This I messed up a bit on, as the shadow areas are a bit too small on the sides of the fuse, especially on one side. Im not super worried about this, as the effect came out in intensity, just like I wanted; not very at all. The look is similar to the wings, in that in some lights its almost imperceptible to see, which is just what I was after.

 

This is also very hard to photograph as well, as the shadows are almost impossible to pick up on with the camera.

 

First I applied the pattern to the fuselage, and sprayed on some Tamiya smoke –

 

DSC01220.jpg

 

Then I just over-sprayed with more really thin CDL until I was satisfied with the look I was after, which was subtle, bordering on almost imperceptible.

 

Here is the end result. Although not perfect, I still like the effect. Again, just like the wings (even more so here) this effect is nearly impossible to pick up on what it looks like accurately in person. Still, much more visible with the naked eye VS the camera –

 

DSC01226.jpg

 

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DSC01224.jpg

 

 

Im now off to start on the engine, and engine bearers, along with getting the interior and exterior if the fuselage cleaned up and ready to receive the back engine cover and engine.

 

Till later lads!

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Very nicely done Brian! The shadow effect on the fuselage fabric looks perfect! It also looks as if you managed to deal with the rear seam of the upper fuselage cap very effectively as well. :thumbsup: From photos I've seen, it looks as though there's a thin reinforcing strip fitted along the bottom seam of the upper cap. It appears to be riveted in place as you can see the domed rivet heads along it's length. Coming along brilliantly man!

 

Cheers,

Wolf

Edited by Wolf Buddee
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Thanks a bunch guys. Being this is my first fore into the WnW world I guess im working my way backwards from hardest to build and rig, to easiest, as I plan to get moving on a D VII eventually and also have my Pheon decals coming for my WnW Tripe as well.

 

 

Very nicely done Brian! The shadow effect on the fuselage fabric looks perfect! It also looks as if you managed to deal with the rear seam of the upper fuselage cap very effectively as well. :thumbsup: From photos I've seen, it looks as though there's a thin reinforcing strip fitted along the bottom seam of the upper cap. It appears to be riveted in place as you can see the domed rivet heads along it's length. Coming along brilliantly man!

 

Cheers,

Wolf

 

You were reading my mind Wolf!

 

About the last thing I did for the night, was to mask off the interior of the fuse, as well as all of the mating surfaces for the rear of the fuse, and spay on a layer of Mr white base 1000 so I could see what I had with the joint between the upper cap and the lower fuse, as well as seeing if I had a seem to fill between the P and S fuse halves on the nose. Turns out, I just have a little more filling and some sanding to do on the outside of the gap between the upper cap and the rear section of the fuselage, and no gaps at all in the nose.

 

I then was contemplating the very thing you are talking about Wolf, and that's the small, thin retaining strip that goes around the joint between the upper fuselage cap and the lower fuse, that has raised rivets along is length.

 

I figured the best way to get the fuselage halves/upper cap joints all smooth and purty, was to mask off the fuselage fabric side detail, and sand the joints down all even once everything was together, and thats just what I did.

 

This method did however wipe away that very retaining strip detail. So what I plan on doing is taking a brand new #11 blade and my trusty stainless straight edge, and cutting a very thin strip of some stretchy Pactra masking tape (or maybe even Tamiya masking tape depending on how some experimentation goes), then applying some Archers or Micro-Mark raised rivets that I have.

 

Thats the plan anyway!

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