Glenn R Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hi Everyone, For some time, I've wanted to build a Short 184 in 1/32 scale. To do this I had to learn some new skills and refine some old ones. One of the new skills, was learning how to carve a four-bladed propeller. I'd done two-bladed ones before, but a four-bladed one required a lot more thought and planning. At first I thought I could cheat, by using the one left over from my Wingnuts Bristol Fighter, but found it was too small in diameter and it turned the wrong way. Though I could use it as a pattern. I started off by layering some 30thou plastic strips in the form of a cross and leaving it alone for about a week to allow all the solvents to evaporate. The basic outline was then drawn, both sides, on the cross. Plastic cold now be removed from around the outline with a heavy duty knife. Out came the trusty Dremel tool for the next part and the basic shape formed using a rotary file attachment. I found that getting the shape of the first blade was the hardest, continually checking against the Bristol pattern, but remembering everything has to be 'mirror image'. Finishing off with some 'wet & dry' abrasive paper, used wet, the final form was achieved. The whole thing then being painted pale grey to show up any imperfections. After final painting, the brass coloured 'capping' was given a rub with some pencil lead powder and the whole thing then being sealed with a coat of Klear/Future. Next up being the tail feathers. How am I doing so far? Glenn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Glenn, so glad you decided to post this here. Fantastic planning and execution with that prop, and the result is outstanding. I'm looking forward to following the rest of this build, and learning as much as I can! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Excellent. I did the same on my Hansa .... only I used directly some wood strips rather than plastic . You could have done the same. Hubert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Very, very cool Glenn ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Fandamtastic! Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Excellent tutorial, Beautiful results! barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radial Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Great start on an ambitious build! Have used same method for making props, but with basswood and bar stock aluminum. Never thought of using plastic. What a concept!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Great start Glenn, really glad you're posting this on here too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn R Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Well, now you've seen how I made my propeller, we can move onto the construction of the tail surfaces. I started off by cutting out the tailplane/elevators, fin and rudder core shapes from 30thou plasticard sheet, making sure the trailing edges of the elevators and rudder were slightly undersize, to allow the forthcoming skins to join at a sharp angle at that point. Skins were drawn out onto 10thou plasticard sheet and, using an embossing tool (a steel rod with a ball on the end set into a handle), ribs were scored onto the plastic. I've found that placing a sheet of card, the stuff used for bordering pictures/photos, gives the best result as the card has some 'give' in it. I embossed just a fraction inboard of both trailing and leading edges. Once all that was done, a pounce wheel was run along the resultant grooves, making sure I didn't press too hard and break the outer surface of the skins. This will simulate the knots tied along the ribs. Next job was to glue some thin 10thou strips into the grooves to prevent them from collapsing when the skins are attached to their cores. The skins were then attached to the cores using contact adhesive, with a thin bead of cyanoacrylate run around the edges. Once everything was dry, the leading edges were rounded with a file/sandpaper and we were ready for the next part. Glenn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 More beautiful work Glenn! I've just merged your two threads so we can keep track of your amazing progress all in one place. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Glenn, Fantastic start of an epic build, I will be following this one very closely. I had two problems to solve for the HP 0/400, the props and the tail, now at least have an idea how to tackle them. Thanks Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssculptor Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Well, now you've seen how I made my propeller, we can move onto the construction of the tail surfaces. I started off by cutting out the tailplane/elevators, fin and rudder core shapes from 30thou plasticard sheet, making sure the trailing edges of the elevators and rudder were slightly undersize, to allow the forthcoming skins to join at a sharp angle at that point. Skins were drawn out onto 10thou plasticard sheet and, using an embossing tool (a steel rod with a ball on the end set into a handle), ribs were scored onto the plastic. I've found that placing a sheet of card, the stuff used for bordering pictures/photos, gives the best result as the card has some 'give' in it. I embossed just a fraction inboard of both trailing and leading edges. Once all that was done, a pounce wheel was run along the resultant grooves, making sure I didn't press too hard and break the outer surface of the skins. This will simulate the knots tied along the ribs. Next job was to glue some thin 10thou strips into the grooves to prevent them from collapsing when the skins are attached to their cores. The skins were then attached to the cores using contact adhesive, with a thin bead of cyanoacrylate run around the edges. Once everything was dry, the leading edges were rounded with a file/sandpaper and we were ready for the next part. Glenn. Glenn, Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I was wondering how I was going to make the ribs on my next scratch built model. This method looks great. Thank you so much. Sharing tips like this is one of the reasons I like this forum so much. Stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Glenn, I have been waiting to see someone make a model of one of these for years. Great work so far . I look forward to seeing this one to completion Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn R Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 I'm glad you like the model so far. Now we'll have a go at making the wings. The basic shapes were cut from some 3/16" balsa sheet, slightly undersize, to allow for the later 'skinning'. Shaping the top surface was done with a sharp knife and some sandpaper, a messy job, with shavings and dust everywhere. The underwing surface is concave and to get this shape I wrapped some sandpaper around a circular plastic container and sanded, spanwise, until the desired shape was achieved - another dusty job. Wing skins were marked and embossed using the same method as per the tail surfaces. I ruined one A4 sheet of 10thou card by embossing on the wrong side, the joys of scratchbuilding! Once cut from the sheet, the trailing edges of the skins were 'flared' a little on the inside to give a sharper and better joint once the skins come together. The wingtip cores were made from some shaped 30thou plasticard sheet and attached to the wood cores with cyano. Two thin strips of 30thou have also been attached to the leading edges at this time, the strips being just a fraction wider than the cores. The wing skins will butt up against these strips and the leading edges will be shaped after the skins are on. Now, here comes the tricky bit, attaching the skins with contact adhesive. You have one, and only one, chance of getting these skins on correctly, so great care is taken. Luck was on my side, all skins went on as planned -phew!! Glenn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Awesome work Glenn. This is like reading a book on scratch-building airframes. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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