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Glenn R

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About Glenn R

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    LSP Junkie

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  1. Hi Cees, Take a look on www.seawings.co.uk for my Catalina build, but as for the Dh 10 and Heyford, I'm sorry, but no photos available. You're certainly doing a good job with your build. Glenn.
  2. Hi Doug and Kev, The next project, already started, is a scratchbuilt Bristol 170 Mk.32 Superfreighter, but I won't do a WIP on that, I'll include a few photos when I post the finished item in a few months time. Glenn.
  3. Hi Cees, Glad to hear my build has spurred you on with your build. Great modelling, keep us posted on the progress. Glenn.
  4. Well, the end of the tunnel is in sight. The piece of fabric that creases at the top wing fold was next. I pre-painted a piece of tea-bag material in the underside colour, cut out the required shape and stuck it onto the wings with a latex rubber solution. The top colour was then painted and the wings were almost ready for attaching. Before I did that, I attached, and rigged, the wingtip floats. Now comes the moment of truth! The wings went on without too much trouble, but three hands would have been an advantage here. A trestle for the rear float was made from some 30thou strip and painted. Some paint touching up was needed here and there and the bracing wires that are disconnected when the wings are folded, were either coiled up or laid on the bottom wing. Other odds and ends were fitted and then it was time for the final photographs. Here's the final result. Please understand that I didn't build this model all that fast, it took me about 4 months from start to finish, working on the model for a few hours each day. I think scratchbuilding very rewarding and find you're only limited by two things, your imagination and your wallet. I hope a little of this will inspire some of you to take the plunge and have a go at some scratchbuilding yourself, it's well worth it. Glenn.
  5. Hi Everyone, I'm glad you like the model so far. Let's get on with it. The rigging of the tail end came next and I was surprised to find so many wires there. Thread and thin plastic tubing were used again, as per the internal fuselage bracing wires. The top wing centre section was fitted, bracing wires attached and that massive radiator installed. The Wingnuts Bristol Fighter supplied the Scarff ring and other odds and ends. As you've probably guessed by now, I've decided to have the wings folded on this model, it just adds to the pain!!! Having installed all the wing struts and, hopefully, drilled all the holes to take all the wires, I joined the wings together, but, before I did that, I installed all the wires into the top of the bottom wings. It made the bottom wings look like they were having a hair transplant! Now the main rigging could begin. I use cyano to attach the thread, applied with a long toothpick (actually, it's a satay stick, but you get the general idea). Keeping the tension is the hardest part, long nosed tweezers and a steady hand are essential for this operation. As you can see in the last photo, the main floats are on and rigged, followed by the rear float and rudder. Making the rope (wire) ladders either side of the nose caused some headache, but we won in the end. The beaching trolley went on next, as you can see from this photo. I think the next installment should see this beast finished. Glenn.
  6. Hi Kev, Spraying onto clear decal sheet and then applying the decals helps to reduce the 'balls-up factor' on many scratchbuilds. Also the demarcation lines are not so apparent as when masking and spraying straight onto the model. I find it quicker and easier to go down this road, but a white undercoat is advised. Regards, Glenn.
  7. Next job was to apply the decals, I use Klear/Future as a setting solution, it pulls the decals down real tight and I have no worries about putting low-tack masking tape over the decals once they are dry. I wanted to slightly accentuate the ribs etc. on the fabric surfaces and this required some mega masking. A couple of light passes with an airbrush, using some very thinned grey paint (Tamiya XF 20 medium gray), gave the effect I was looking for. With a small drill bit, I then drilled all the required holes in whole airframe ready to take the struts and bracing wires. It was at this stage I discovered that the ailerons, as shown on the drawing I was using, were the same length on both wings. Looking at photos, this is not so, the lower ones being shorter. I was too far down the road to do anything about it, so will have to live with it. Glenn.
  8. Now we've got those bits and pieces out of the way, it was time to make some of the struts. Aeroclub, in the UK have packs of assorted, strut shaped, plastic rod which I find ideal for biplanes. Once cut to length, I drill holes in the ends and insert a piece of brass rod. Now we can get on to some serious painting. The main and rear floats received a coat of light grey (Humbrol 165 satin medium sea grey), as did the front fuselage and all the struts. Battens on the bottom of the floats were painted medium brown (Humbrol 63 matt sand) and then a coat of Klear/Future. Wings, fuselage and rudder received a coat of white where the roundels/fin flash appear and were masked off, ready for the next colour. For the doped fabric undersides, I used Gunze Mr. Hobby 45 sail color. The top colour was a mixture of Mr.Hobby 39 dark yellow, 326 blue FS15044 and 327 red FS11136. As usual, I always mix too much, but this extra can be used for touching-up at a later date. Some decal sheet was sprayed Blue (Humbrol 14 gloss French blue) and another piece sprayed red (Humbrol 19 gloss bright red). The rudder striping being done at the same time. Here's my recipe for painting exhausts:- First, a coat of brown (Humbrol 113 matt rust), followed by a gentle dry-brushing of gold (Humbrol 16 metallic gold). Another dry-brushing follows, this time using silver (Humbrol 56 metallic matt aluminium). A pencil is then rubbed on some sandpaper and the resultant dust applied all over the exhausts with a soft brush. Glenn.
  9. Leaving the wings aside for a while, I next had a go at making the beaching trolley. Two, staggered, layers of 10thou card were wrapped around an item of a suitable diameter, I found the screw top of a Tamiya enamel paint pot just right, wrapped again with masking tape and a few drops of liquid cement applied and left to dry for a while. Holes were then drilled into the rims and wheel centres to take the spokes, which were plastic rod. The basic trolley was made from some 30thou strip and painted - another job out of the way. The later style wingtip floats required the making of a suitable master for vac-forming. Two side view sections were cut from some 20thou plasticard and held together with some double-sided tape. The plan shape was cut in half and each piece glued to the side. Epoxy putty filled in the shape and, when finished, the two sides prized apart and stuck onto some pieces of 3/16" balsa sheet. The balsa pieces lift the masters from the vac-former base just enough to give a nice straight edge to the finished float halves when trimmed. On the left of the photo is the grill with a piece of 30thou sheet being heated. On the right is the vacuum chamber with the masters placed on it and the vacuum cleaner plugged in ready to go. Bottom right shows the first pull of float halves. Glenn.
  10. After the fun of making the radiator, I finished off the fuselage top decking and the nose area. I know that many 184's had the top of the engine cowlings removed, but as my aircraft was based in northern Russia around 1919, I thought a full set of cowlings would be fitted. I also didn't fancy scratchbuilding another engine! Here you can see the trial fit of both the radiator and top wing centre section, plus the exhausts, which were made from squashed plastic tubing and epoxy putty Let's return to the wings now. I removed the ailerons and took a sliver of balsa core from the nose of each aileron and re-glued the skin in that area with cyano. This makes the aileron nose appear slightly rounded when re-attached to the wing. It was at this stage that I carefully dribbled some cyano into the gap between all the trailing edges and the balsa core. This was made easier by removing the ailerons. This job is fraught with danger and it's best to put some tape on the trailing edges to prevent any cyano going onto the outer skin. Once this was set, the problem of how to replicate the scalloped trailing edges reared its ugly head. Some time ago, a friend sent me a set of metal punches and these seemed the ideal solution to my problem. Using the flip-side of my cutting board, I punched out the trailing edge scallops, as you can see, finishing off with a round file and some sandpaper. After re-attaching the ailerons, I gave the wings a coat of a light coloured paint to see if there were any overlooked imperfections. I wanted to accentuate the rib tapes on the fabric areas of the aircraft, so it was out with the masking tape. All these areas now receiving a light coat of airbrushed paint. This layer of paint should, hopefully, be faintly visible under the final finish - we'll see. Glenn.
  11. Hi Ron, Many thanks for your input, I too have the Windsock Datafile and, after a re-read, I agree with you. As the subject of my model is a fairly late version, I'm still going with the grey painted floats. There also appears to be two versions of the wingtip floats, mine having the later version, as you'll see in some later posts. Glenn.
  12. The radiator was the next thing I tackled. I cut many rectangles from some 10thou sheet and started cementing some thin 10thou strips on the top and bottom edges. WAIT! Something's wrong, the radiator on the drawing looks smaller than the one in the photo of the aircraft I wish to model. After a bit of checking and measuring, I find that the radiator on my aircraft is almost twice the size as the one in the drawing I'm using. I think the drawing is of an earlier version of a 184, probably with a less powerful engine which required a smaller radiator - that's my theory, anyway. Let's start again. 28 larger oblongs were cut from some more 10thou sheet, each one receiving the 10thou strip along the top and bottom, on both sides. This should give me a spacing of 20thou between each element. The outer face on the outer elements were scored with a scriber to give a ridged effect. Both sides were painted gunmetal between the strips before assembling as i knew I'd never get paint in there afterwards. After assembly, the whole radiator was given a coat of gunmetal (Humbrol 53 metallic gunmetal). The upper wing centre section leading edge had to be cut away, as far back as the spar, to accomodate the radiator. Just for a change of scenery, I then made a start on the main and tail floats. These are fairly simple box-like shapes and they went together quite quickly using 20 and 30thou sheet. Drawings and paintings show these floats as having been made of wood, photos tell a different story, as rows of rivets can be seen on both. Mine received the attention of a pounce wheel and will be painted grey except for the wooden battens on the underside. Glenn.
  13. Please don't think I'm posting this build as I go along. I am actually just past the rigging stage at the moment and it has taken me about three months to get to that far. I think you'll agree that waiting a few weeks for the next post causes a loss of interest in a project. Glenn.
  14. Hi Derek, Harry Woodmam's models and book were a great influence towards me starting to scratchbuild. Glenn.
  15. I've put the wings aside for a while and made a start on the fuselage. The fuselage sides were cut from 20thou sheet, the edges embossed and receiving the pounce wheel treatment, both sides are shown here. The fuselage bottom was cut from 30thou sheet, bulkheads fitted and the sides glued on. A floor was added to the cockpit/gunner's area, but before fitting, a layer of fine wire mesh was glued on using cyano. The inside fuselage sides were given a coat of pale grey paint, the wooden areas receiving a pale brown colour (Humbrol 63 matt sand)and then a light coat of Klear/Future, to give a slight sheen.. At this point I realised that I should have done the internal bracing before I glued the sides to the floor. Having to do it now caused a lot of cursing as well as a lot of time! For the wires, I used thin cotton thread stolen from the wife's sewing box. This thread was cut to lengths of about 2 feet and dipped into a small dish of gunmetal paint (Humbrol 53 metallic gunmetal). Attaching the thread to bulldog clips, it was hung vertically for about 15-20 minutes and then drawn through a small wad of tissue a few times. The tissue removes the excess blobs of paint, also smoothing down the thread and eliminating any 'fur'. For turnbuckles, I use the plastic insulation removed from thin, single core wire. The wire comes from (old?)telephone exchanges and is used here in Thailand to tie up orchid plants. Other internal parts were constructed, the seat bottom from 30thou sheet and the ply sides from 10thou sheet with the holes pre-punched using Waldron punches. Seat cushion and backrest from epoxy putty. The circular control wheel was made by wrapping some multicore solder a few times round a handle of the correct diameter, the 'rings' cut with a sharp knife and then glued using cyano. The next sequence of photos show the fuselage internals slowly being added and the rear decking fitted. In the last photo, I'm fitting the leather surround to both cockpits. This again, is plastic wire insulation, but cut along its length with the split gradually being fed around the cockpit surround. Seatbelts and a few other items came from the Wingnuts Bristol Fighter kit, as I didn't use them, converting mine to a post war trainer. Glenn.
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