Mr Creosote

I have started the build. Once I started sorting out the cockpit parts I noticed that the photoetch was gone. I thought ,at first, that I may have to abandon this project, at least for the time being but decided to look through the instructions to see what photoetched parts went where. As it turned out it was the instrument panel, seat belts, rudder pedal straps and radiator grills and detail. I have mesh for the radiator, etched seatbelts in the stash, a choice of materials for the rudder pedal straps and either buy a Yahu or other  instrument panel  or scratch build one. 
I decided to attempt to build the instrument panel first. I have the materials and tools so its worth a shot. 
I made sheet plastic blanks using the kit's plastic instrument panel backing. I guesstimated the dimension of the flying panel. For reference I used the drawings in Aerodata International's "Fighters of World War II".
The flying panel was first. I punched disks from black decal and applied them to the panel as template guide for punching the holes in the sheet styrene.  I did the same for the rest of the instrument panel. The hole size was determined by the size of the instrument decal going in that location. I am using Mike Grant decals for the instruments. Switches were  made using  Evergreen strip and shapes or for the smaller electrical switch panels some Reheat photoetch was used. 
 
The starting point:
    
Decal disks on the flying panel:

 
The flying panel instruments punched and the being used to aid in locating the other instruments as accurately as possible.
 

 

 
Panel completed. The compass mount and compass are resin kit parts and will be added later. 

 
The cockpit frame work basically complete. The rudder pedal straps were made from lead foil. I did, at first, try to use styrene strip but tired of wrestling with it and switched. I think they turned out alright.

 

 
More to come.

I have started the build. Once I started sorting out the cockpit parts I noticed that the photoetch was gone. I thought ,at first, that I may have to abandon this project, at least for the time being but decided to look through the instructions to see what photoetched parts went where. As it turned out it was the instrument panel, seat belts, rudder pedal straps and radiator grills and detail. I have mesh for the radiator, etched seatbelts in the stash, a choice of materials for the rudder pedal straps and either buy a Yahu or other  instrument panel  or scratch build one. 
I decided to attempt to build the instrument panel first. I have the materials and tools so its worth a shot. 
I made sheet plastic blanks using the kit's plastic instrument panel backing. I guesstimated the dimension of the flying panel. For reference I used the drawings in Aerodata International's "Fighters of World War II".
The flying panel was first. I punched disks from black decal and applied them to the panel as template guide for punching the holes in the sheet styrene.  I did the same for the rest of the instrument panel. The hole size was determined by the size of the instrument decal going in that location. I am using Mike Grant decals for the instruments. Switches were  made using  Evergreen strip and shapes or for the smaller electrical switch panels some Reheat photoetch was used. 
 
The starting point:
    
Decal disks on the flying panel:

 
The flying panel instruments punched and the being used to aid in locating the other instruments as accurately as possible.
 

 

 
Panel completed. The compass mount and compass are resin kit parts and will be added later. 

 
The cockpit frame work basically complete. The rudder pedal straps were made from lead foil. I did, at first, try to use styrene strip but tired of wrestling with it and switched. I think they turned out alright.

 

 
More to come.

I'm in with this one.  I plan to build it Out-Of-The-Box including using kit decals.
 

 

I'm in with this one.  I plan to build it Out-Of-The-Box including using kit decals.
 

 

I'm in with this one.  I plan to build it Out-Of-The-Box including using kit decals.
 

 

I'm in with this one.  I plan to build it Out-Of-The-Box including using kit decals.
 

 

I'm in with this one.  I plan to build it Out-Of-The-Box including using kit decals.
 

 

I'm in with this one.  I plan to build it Out-Of-The-Box including using kit decals.
 

 

I'm in with this one.  I plan to build it Out-Of-The-Box including using kit decals.
 

 

I'm in with this one.  I plan to build it Out-Of-The-Box including using kit decals.
 

 

I'm in with this one.  I plan to build it Out-Of-The-Box including using kit decals.
 

 

I'm in with this one.  I plan to build it Out-Of-The-Box including using kit decals.
 

 

I'm in with this one.  I plan to build it Out-Of-The-Box including using kit decals.
 

 

I'm in with this one.  I plan to build it Out-Of-The-Box including using kit decals.
 

 

Thanks Kevin.
RD
 

Work continues on my Mosquito despite other projects that delayed this build. 
I have prioritized this build by tackling the time consuming problem areas first.
For this build these areas are the wings and nacelles.
Both wings were warped both span and cord-wise with the port wing being  the least warped and the starboard wing the worst.
 


 
My solution was to use brass tubing attached to the lower wing halfs held in place with sheet plastic "saddles".

 
The port wing.

And the starboard. 
The brass rod for each wing was only glued ,with CA, inboard of the nacelles.  This would allow the brass rod to 'float" if I needed to adjust the any misalignment of outer wing panels.  
 
The forward tab was notched and an opening was made for a brass rod that will be inserted into the tubing when the wings are attached to the fuselage. The rod will run nearly the length of the tubing in each wing. This is probably overkill but it will make for a solid join.
 
  
 
All in all an old school solution for an old school kit. 
RD

Work continues on my Mosquito despite other projects that delayed this build. 
I have prioritized this build by tackling the time consuming problem areas first.
For this build these areas are the wings and nacelles.
Both wings were warped both span and cord-wise with the port wing being  the least warped and the starboard wing the worst.
 


 
My solution was to use brass tubing attached to the lower wing halfs held in place with sheet plastic "saddles".

 
The port wing.

And the starboard. 
The brass rod for each wing was only glued ,with CA, inboard of the nacelles.  This would allow the brass rod to 'float" if I needed to adjust the any misalignment of outer wing panels.  
 
The forward tab was notched and an opening was made for a brass rod that will be inserted into the tubing when the wings are attached to the fuselage. The rod will run nearly the length of the tubing in each wing. This is probably overkill but it will make for a solid join.
 
  
 
All in all an old school solution for an old school kit. 
RD

Work continues on my Mosquito despite other projects that delayed this build. 
I have prioritized this build by tackling the time consuming problem areas first.
For this build these areas are the wings and nacelles.
Both wings were warped both span and cord-wise with the port wing being  the least warped and the starboard wing the worst.
 


 
My solution was to use brass tubing attached to the lower wing halfs held in place with sheet plastic "saddles".

 
The port wing.

And the starboard. 
The brass rod for each wing was only glued ,with CA, inboard of the nacelles.  This would allow the brass rod to 'float" if I needed to adjust the any misalignment of outer wing panels.  
 
The forward tab was notched and an opening was made for a brass rod that will be inserted into the tubing when the wings are attached to the fuselage. The rod will run nearly the length of the tubing in each wing. This is probably overkill but it will make for a solid join.
 
  
 
All in all an old school solution for an old school kit. 
RD

My entry in The Multi Engine GB is to going to be  a Mosquito FB MK VI out of the Revell B MKVI with the help of some Paragon resin and a bit of scratch-building.  
If all goes well it will be finished as HR399 OB-R of #45 Squadron. 

 
 

Work continues on my Mosquito despite other projects that delayed this build. 
I have prioritized this build by tackling the time consuming problem areas first.
For this build these areas are the wings and nacelles.
Both wings were warped both span and cord-wise with the port wing being  the least warped and the starboard wing the worst.
 


 
My solution was to use brass tubing attached to the lower wing halfs held in place with sheet plastic "saddles".

 
The port wing.

And the starboard. 
The brass rod for each wing was only glued ,with CA, inboard of the nacelles.  This would allow the brass rod to 'float" if I needed to adjust the any misalignment of outer wing panels.  
 
The forward tab was notched and an opening was made for a brass rod that will be inserted into the tubing when the wings are attached to the fuselage. The rod will run nearly the length of the tubing in each wing. This is probably overkill but it will make for a solid join.
 
  
 
All in all an old school solution for an old school kit. 
RD

Work continues on my Mosquito despite other projects that delayed this build. 
I have prioritized this build by tackling the time consuming problem areas first.
For this build these areas are the wings and nacelles.
Both wings were warped both span and cord-wise with the port wing being  the least warped and the starboard wing the worst.
 


 
My solution was to use brass tubing attached to the lower wing halfs held in place with sheet plastic "saddles".

 
The port wing.

And the starboard. 
The brass rod for each wing was only glued ,with CA, inboard of the nacelles.  This would allow the brass rod to 'float" if I needed to adjust the any misalignment of outer wing panels.  
 
The forward tab was notched and an opening was made for a brass rod that will be inserted into the tubing when the wings are attached to the fuselage. The rod will run nearly the length of the tubing in each wing. This is probably overkill but it will make for a solid join.
 
  
 
All in all an old school solution for an old school kit. 
RD

Work continues on my Mosquito despite other projects that delayed this build. 
I have prioritized this build by tackling the time consuming problem areas first.
For this build these areas are the wings and nacelles.
Both wings were warped both span and cord-wise with the port wing being  the least warped and the starboard wing the worst.
 


 
My solution was to use brass tubing attached to the lower wing halfs held in place with sheet plastic "saddles".

 
The port wing.

And the starboard. 
The brass rod for each wing was only glued ,with CA, inboard of the nacelles.  This would allow the brass rod to 'float" if I needed to adjust the any misalignment of outer wing panels.  
 
The forward tab was notched and an opening was made for a brass rod that will be inserted into the tubing when the wings are attached to the fuselage. The rod will run nearly the length of the tubing in each wing. This is probably overkill but it will make for a solid join.
 
  
 
All in all an old school solution for an old school kit. 
RD

Work continues on my Mosquito despite other projects that delayed this build. 
I have prioritized this build by tackling the time consuming problem areas first.
For this build these areas are the wings and nacelles.
Both wings were warped both span and cord-wise with the port wing being  the least warped and the starboard wing the worst.
 


 
My solution was to use brass tubing attached to the lower wing halfs held in place with sheet plastic "saddles".

 
The port wing.

And the starboard. 
The brass rod for each wing was only glued ,with CA, inboard of the nacelles.  This would allow the brass rod to 'float" if I needed to adjust the any misalignment of outer wing panels.  
 
The forward tab was notched and an opening was made for a brass rod that will be inserted into the tubing when the wings are attached to the fuselage. The rod will run nearly the length of the tubing in each wing. This is probably overkill but it will make for a solid join.
 
  
 
All in all an old school solution for an old school kit. 
RD

Work continues on my Mosquito despite other projects that delayed this build. 
I have prioritized this build by tackling the time consuming problem areas first.
For this build these areas are the wings and nacelles.
Both wings were warped both span and cord-wise with the port wing being  the least warped and the starboard wing the worst.
 


 
My solution was to use brass tubing attached to the lower wing halfs held in place with sheet plastic "saddles".

 
The port wing.

And the starboard. 
The brass rod for each wing was only glued ,with CA, inboard of the nacelles.  This would allow the brass rod to 'float" if I needed to adjust the any misalignment of outer wing panels.  
 
The forward tab was notched and an opening was made for a brass rod that will be inserted into the tubing when the wings are attached to the fuselage. The rod will run nearly the length of the tubing in each wing. This is probably overkill but it will make for a solid join.
 
  
 
All in all an old school solution for an old school kit. 
RD

Work continues on my Mosquito despite other projects that delayed this build. 
I have prioritized this build by tackling the time consuming problem areas first.
For this build these areas are the wings and nacelles.
Both wings were warped both span and cord-wise with the port wing being  the least warped and the starboard wing the worst.
 


 
My solution was to use brass tubing attached to the lower wing halfs held in place with sheet plastic "saddles".

 
The port wing.

And the starboard. 
The brass rod for each wing was only glued ,with CA, inboard of the nacelles.  This would allow the brass rod to 'float" if I needed to adjust the any misalignment of outer wing panels.  
 
The forward tab was notched and an opening was made for a brass rod that will be inserted into the tubing when the wings are attached to the fuselage. The rod will run nearly the length of the tubing in each wing. This is probably overkill but it will make for a solid join.
 
  
 
All in all an old school solution for an old school kit. 
RD