Jump to content

Greg W

LSP_Members
  • Posts

    1,149
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by Greg W

  1. I have used some of the profile scrapers made by Shimomura Alec, extensively.  

     

    20240120_185104

     

    20240120_185026

     

    The versions I have in my toolbox:

    20240204_231733

     

    Often, I use the R-V6 to scrape away unwanted detail from the inside of a cockpit or remove ejector pin marks on curved surfaces.

     

    Sometimes though, adjacent profiles will prevent access to confined areas.   

     

    20240204_232733

     

    My workaround was to order a second R-V6 and separate the individual profiles with a cut off wheel mounted to my Dremel.

     

    20240120_191701

     

    Each stalk can then be put in a X-Zacto handle.

     

    20240204_232744

     

    20240202_232706

     

    For my North American compatriots, if interested, HobbyZone USA carries many of the Alec modeling tools:

     

    https://www.hobbyzone.biz/tool.shtml

     

    Worth a look I think. 

     

    Greg

  2. On 11/8/2023 at 3:16 AM, red Dog said:

    "When I have to paint them, I usually mix radome tan with a bit of white."

     

    Thank you, this is the kind of thing I was curious about and why I started the thread. I think it would be valuable for members who build jets to chime in and share what they do when painting the lights, for those that are using photo etch or vinyl frames. 

     

    However, it is also interesting to see the various different ways folks are making them too! 

     

    Please, keep it coming!

  3. On 11/7/2023 at 3:45 AM, red Dog said:

    Greg,

     

    An alternative to paint is to use phosphorescent self adhesive tape.

     

    A10C_popup_405.png

     

    The one I used above were sourced from Magic scale modeling but I guess other brands are available.

    They are uncut and need to be cut to size. More work but more flexible. I cut mine with the silouhette  which was very easy. 

     

    It's widely available in rolls on amazon too, but I guess the trick is to find one which is very thin. 

     

    It is a gimmick, but I reckon it's fun to take the model in light and then bring it in the dark room and see the slime lights ON :)

     

     

     

    How cool is that? You have used it to great effect, well done!

     

    Thank you 

  4. On 10/25/2023 at 2:14 AM, geedubelyer said:

    Hi Greg. 

     

    I've seen a couple of models built using the glow in the dark type paints and they worked well.

     

    On builds I've done I've used pale Citadel colours. Since the actual items look off white when powered down I went with bone shades or rotting flesh I think. 

    In their current range Krieg Khaki, Screaming skull or Wraithbone  could all be contenders. The beauty of the Citadel paints is the large range of colours and the ease with which they are mixed. Virtually any shade is possible. If the above mentioned shades are too dark simply add white. Also, there are a large range of shaded washes available to create the realistic multi tonal look of the real deals. 

    Citadel also offer a "glow" paint in their technical range called Tesseract Glow which they suggect "Apply over light colours for an eye-catching glowing appearance"

    I'm not sure whether it's possible to mix that with the standard paints though or whether it could look unrealistically bright.

     

    HTH

     

    Guy

     

    Ok, very good!

     

    In addition to the photoetch frames pictured above, one of my models has wingtips with a highly irregular shape, that I don't think a decal will conform to, so painting them on is the way to go. 

     

    Thank you for listing your recommended colors Guy and that Tesseract Glow seems like a product that would be real interesting to experiment with. 

     

    Much appreciated.

  5. 20 hours ago, Tec182 said:

    Apologies for being off topic, but another “must have” from Troy is the D400 sander. Rarely a session passes that I don’t grab it for some reason. Only regret is not having one decades ago.

     

    I have wanted one for some time and actually just emailed Troy, inquiring about D400 package deals he offers that include heads and sandpaper. I don't want to get the sander in the mail and have to wait to use it because I don't have the necessary accessories.

     

    Really looking forward to using it.

  6. Here's a heads up on a book I stumbled across called Aircraft Modelling: Conversions, Scratchbuilding and Superdetailing.  

     

    Link  to where I discovered it.

     

    Have any of you heard tell of of it? 

     

    It is listed as a pre-order, slated for release in April 2024.

     

    Description from Amazon:

     

    "Aircraft Modelling presents a distinguished line-up of master modellers to guide you through the essential aspects of advanced plastic modelling. Via a combination of immaculate photographs, step-by-step instructions, friendly advice, and easy-to-follow techniques, you will be shown how to convert, modify, and superdetail kits, how to model resin and vacuform parts and kits, and even how to scratchbuild entire models. This book will not only greatly improve your modelling skills and efficiency, it will encourage you to push your boundaries, to engage your imagination, and to create models that will go on to inspire others.

    Table of Contents

    Acknowledgements; Preface; Introduction; Conversions; Resin/Vacuform Models; Scratchbuilding – Claudio Luchina; Super-detailing; Conclusion; Internet Resources; Index"

×
×
  • Create New...