VintageEagle

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Finally, the cockpit has been married with the fuselage :-)
 
The cover above the upper instrument panel was a bit tricky as it is not wide enough to fit into the slots on each fuselage side. I first tried to force it into place, but that did not really work and I then found out, the windshield would not have space anyways like that. The best way was to glue the front face to the backside of the gun compartment. It took me some glue and patience, but it did work finally. I'll be faster and more accurate with my 2nd Fw 190 that I am building. 
 
The rear part of the cockpit tub was a bit too short. I had another Eduard cockpit I used for test fitting and that one was a bit longer. I assume it is due to shrinking of the resin parts over time. Anyways, the good thing is that the gap in the rear will be completely covered by the canopy and not visible at all. 
 
I then started experimenting for the next part I am focusing on: the rudder. I was not happy with the way how Revell moulded the rudder and I sanded it to get a smooth surface. To add texture I used my Cricut machine to create masks. I tested it on a spare 190 fuselage. I applied the masks, then a layer of Mr. Surfacer, I then removed the masks and sanded the surface smooth. The original 190 rudder has some textile strips that were glued over the ribs. The surface is also a bit irregular along narrow stripes underneath the fabric covering (maybe glue?). I tested how 1) leaving the surface, 2) adding a decal stripe for some contour and 3) adding first a thin irregular line of putty (first masked the thin line, then added the putty) and on top of it a stripe of decals. I quite like the result and will go for it. The only thing I will do differently is to use a slightly thinner layer of Mr. Surfacer.
 
Below are some photos I took with my smart phone. No fancy background.
 
 
Cheers, Roger
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Finally, I completed the last part before I can close the fuselage and move on: the cover above the instrument panel. When I looked at wartime photos, I noticed that there are six nuts (2x3) visible on the top of the cover near the opening for the Revi 16B gunsight. These are not present on the Eduard cover. Therefore, I added them using Archer rivets. I used them for the first time and I must say they are great and it worked without a problem. I had to repeat the first attempt, but it was my own fault. After I painted the rivets, I applied tape on top of it when masking the leather frame. When I removed the tape, the rivets stuck to it and I had to start over again. But next time, I was more careful and it worked perfectly. I highlighted the nuts with a thin brush and used a dark grey wash.
 

Fw 190 D-11 cockpit where nuts can be seen on both side of the Revi 16B
 

Eduard part with Archer rivets on the left side and Revel part on the right side
 

Completed cover
 

Other side (slightly out of focus, but I am using an iPhone for the photos as I don't have a camera with a macro lens)
 
Next step was to paint the leather (on later versions it was a synthetic material and not leather). I checked many references to decide what color to use. I found brown, black, dark grey, greenish grey, light grey and beige. The Ta 152 H that still exists today for example has a beige material. I found a photo of a Fw 190 A-8 that also had a very lightly colored material.
 

 
The first aircraft I will complete is the Fw 190 A-8. I found a color photo of an aircraft that was only few aircraft apart from the subject that I plan to build and that one had a beige material:
 

 
Therefore, I decided to paint it beige as well. It gives a bit of contrast and looks quite attractive. Finally, I painted the inside of the fuselage around the cockpit (RLM 66), exhaust area (black) and tail wheel (bare metal):
 

 
That's it for now. I have some respect of the next step: joining the fuselage and cockpit. I don't know if it is better to attach cockpit and cover to one side first and then joining the fuselage. Or joining the fuselage first and then adding the cockpit from below. I'll see and then can only hope that I don't do a big mistake that will evaporate all my motivation on this build.
 
 
 

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Thanks guys! Your comments are always appreciated!
 
The epoxy on the wheels has cured so I attached the landing gear doors.



 
A quick look up top with the prop in place and you can see that 740 is close to being done. But I'm hesitating on adding the fragile aerial array since that will signal the end of being able to work on the bottom.

F-16CJ, 91-0348, 77 FS/20 FW, SW, Operation Iraqi Freedom, 2003 (maternity base-SHAW AFB, North Caroline)
 
Accessories
Aires: cockpit, wheel bay, exhaust nozle
Wheelland: Wheels
Master: pitot tube
 
Paint: Gunze C, MR Paint, Aero Master
Wash: AK Interactive, Ammo Mig
 
 
Foto: my frend Miloslav( thank you)
 
 












 

Thanks Mark!  Always good to have some more wiring sources!
 
Thanks guys!  Moving along now... the cockpit parts have been assembled.  As you can see, I installed the big fuel tanks under the cockpit as it will make placement of the cockpit tub into the fuselage a little easier.  They will completely invisible after the fuselage is assembled.

Hi all,
 
Not been around much lately as I have a nasty shoulder injury that means I can't really do much, plus I am off to Thailand in a week so likely not back in the groove until early Feb
 
..that said, I do want to wish everyone Season's Greetings and thank you all for tuning in and contributing to my build log this year
 

 
all the best everyone & enjoy tonight!
 
Peter

Great subject. You have to be careful with the canopy/cockpit wall edges. They were different on the trainer and nightfighter. It could be a challenge to modify the Revell kit to become a trainer version.

Great subject. You have to be careful with the canopy/cockpit wall edges. They were different on the trainer and nightfighter. It could be a challenge to modify the Revell kit to become a trainer version.

Getting some more of the markings into place on the K-4.  White 8 and tactical bar are again custom masks cut with my Silhouette Portrait cutter.  One of the best investments I've ever made as a modeler.




 
The engine cowling was masked off and painted.  The darker color is RLM 75 grey (Mr Hobby Aqueous) and the lighter grey is simply the RLM 75 with a bit of Tamiya White mixed in.





 
There was a previous code that was overpainted in grey under the white 8.  I am going to use the unused portion of the mask to replicate this but I'm nervous about the white paint lifting.  I've given the rear fuselage area a light spray of gloss in preparation.

announced on HB website
not sure if it was mentioned here already
http://hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=article&a=show&id=150
jan
 

 

My good friend Juraj wa so nice to bring me one from Telford and in past days I have started to play with it
I plan to build it in simple configuration with everything closed, and will focus on visible areas only.
 
Would like to build it in the desert camo as included in the kit

 
Againg great instructions included 

 
I have started with engines. While the fit is superb I'm not following color references from instructions
mixture of MRP Copper and Gold

MRP Back and Alclad Aluminium


Alclad Aluminium and Dark aluminium

MRP Black and RLM 02

details added and panted

MIG Dark and Neutral wash applied

Drybrushed with light grey

gluing it together




Thanks for looking
jan

I’d take at least 4 as well!

Hi Guys,
 
Some more work on the Mistel.
 
Nose wheel:
 
Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
 
Bogie unit:
 
Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
 
RATO unit with the start of a frame, the start of some markings, maybe the start of the end phase?
 
Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
 
Struts on the chute pack and a RATO in place:
 
Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
 
Adding the RATO units to the back end of the launch trolley.  Still missing one strut on the number 1 (Port outer) but you can see some of the fuel point markings.
 
Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
 
Two from the top:
 
Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
 
A bit hairy but you get the idea!
 
Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
 
The outer RATO units toe-in.
 
Untitled by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr
 
More soon
 
Regards,
 
Bruce Crosby

OK, I checked my wartime photos of a few captured jets and found the following:
 
W.Nr. 500071 (German museum aircraft) without glass and bracket
W.Nr. 500453 (NASM aircraft) most likely with glass and bracket
W.Nr. 111711 without glass and bracket
 
I think David Brown narrowed down the W.Nr. block of Yellow 3 to 110xxx, which was not a very late war production. So, it may well have had the bracket and glass, but it may as well not have had the bracket or even a bracket without the glass installed.
 
They installed whatever was available and it may well be that earlier production Revis were fitted to late war production Me 262s.

OK, I checked my archive and found two photos that show the backside of that cover. On one it looks as if it was indeed made out of two parts, but there is no strut behind the joint line to which the two panels could have been riveted to. It looks as if the two parts are only held together by the perpendicular struts. So, I think you are right, there is a panel line, but much less prominent and probably without rivets (as can also be seen in the Hendon photo you posted).
 
Cheers,
Roger