Haggis

A bloke at my Air Cadets when I was young had a Dad who flew them too, I think maybe he was even CO of a squadron but it was 30 odd years ago and memory can be a wobbly thing at times.

A bloke at my Air Cadets when I was young had a Dad who flew them too, I think maybe he was even CO of a squadron but it was 30 odd years ago and memory can be a wobbly thing at times.

Very nice mate, top work. It's especially cool as I rejoin 72 Squadron on Monday! 😎

Very nice mate, top work. It's especially cool as I rejoin 72 Squadron on Monday! 😎

Thanks everyone, truly humbling. I'm very proud of this, my first book. They gave me a few options of the front cover but there really was only one choice!

Pre-shading; utterly pointless and wholly unrealistic. There are far easier, and much more effective methods to get a realistic finish. Aeroplanes do not end up with consistent, dark shadows (even subtle ones) over the entire airframe.

Pre-shading; utterly pointless and wholly unrealistic. There are far easier, and much more effective methods to get a realistic finish. Aeroplanes do not end up with consistent, dark shadows (even subtle ones) over the entire airframe.

Pre-shading; utterly pointless and wholly unrealistic. There are far easier, and much more effective methods to get a realistic finish. Aeroplanes do not end up with consistent, dark shadows (even subtle ones) over the entire airframe.

Pre-shading; utterly pointless and wholly unrealistic. There are far easier, and much more effective methods to get a realistic finish. Aeroplanes do not end up with consistent, dark shadows (even subtle ones) over the entire airframe.

Er, looks different to me!

Er, looks different to me!

Er, looks different to me!

I remember one bloke going into meltdown over the Trumpeter HU-16 Albatross because the ship in the painting on the box art was sinking in an inaccurate way! Hilarious.......

I remember one bloke going into meltdown over the Trumpeter HU-16 Albatross because the ship in the painting on the box art was sinking in an inaccurate way! Hilarious.......

What a fantastic opportunity to sort out that front end and radiator shape. Sadly they haven't, that front end looks absolutely ridiculous, you don't need red lines to see that!
 
Still, many people won't care though. I don't normally care about minor shape issues, this however, is not minor.......

I remember one bloke going into meltdown over the Trumpeter HU-16 Albatross because the ship in the painting on the box art was sinking in an inaccurate way! Hilarious.......

I'd love that tow bar as a separate, would go great with my Su-25.

Peter, I think it almost goes without saying that this is an astonishing project, mind blowing in fact.
 
Quick question, where do you those little brass nuts and other fixings from?
 
Cheers,
 
Jamie. (BTW, just used a ton of your stuff in my latest build, Wyvern 1:48!).

I think that a lot of the weathered models we see these days are caricatures... This  is another "new normal" disseminated by the internet. When you have to ask "is it too much?", it is already too much. Weathering is like make up: when done right is it beautiful, but some guys aim for "cover girl" and end up with "cartoon hooker". :-) 
Radu 

That's very nice, I love the grimy finish.

I'm going to try and make it.

I'm going to try and make it.

Every time I see a Lynx with bright blue or green over head panels a little tear runs down my cheek.

Hi chaps
 
Here's the latest, Hasegawa's P-40E in 1:32. The model has been enhanced with scratch built cockpit detail, Eduard photo etch and Radu Brinzn's Sutton harness. All markings are sprayed using custom masks by Ian at Ad Astra masks (awesome by the way). Oh, I nearly forgot, it's also been riveted.
 
She's painted with Gunze acrylics and weathered by tinting the base coat followed by 3 different filters and then oil dot weathering.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Here's the dit on oil dot weathering I did on Hyperscale's Plane Talking a few days ago;
 
First of all I don't recommend using a matt coat, the oil paint will tend to stain the area and it will be almost impossible to remove. A matt coat is best for applying filters however.
 
I use white spirit to blend (I believe you call it mineral spirit over there). This is less aggressive than turpentine and will result in a superior finish (I reckon). AK Interactive do specific products (called white spirit) and they have a US outlet.
 
I dampen the area slightly (very slightly) before adding the dots. I don't streak the paint, this isn't natural. Oil dot fading is best for general fading and tinting of the base coat. Aeroplanes spend only a fraction of their time in the air and therefore unless you are doing a dusty aircraft which has flown through rain then streaking is not appropriate. In fact I think streaky aeroplanes look rather odd.
 
I blend the paint using 2 large round brushes. The first is ever so slightly moistened with white spirit, this will keep the oil paint workable. Towards the end of the process I ten use a dry large soft brush to finish off the blending. In both cases I use a tapping motion.
 
You need to think about the tones, white, green, buff and yellow are good for greens for example. But don't put blue over yellow (or sand) or it will look green. As for why you're getting white, that could down to contamination?
 
I did a how to article in March's MAI magazine if you're interested. I hope this helps.
 
Before oil dot fading and filters.
 

 
After
 

 

That spinner in the middle picture looks different to the others?