KUROK

Hi everyone thank you for your kind comments, really encourages me to do better
 
 
 
Hi both - for skinning I exclusively use Evo Stick contact adhesive, which is diluted with it's own brand cleaner to the consistency of single cream - this is then brushed on both surfaces and left for a minute or two to go off before application. Very occasionally, I use thin CA for an errant edge to hold it down..
 
I finished the floats and detailed the struts, all done with litho - this includes some very long, this one piece multi hundred rivet strips that run the length of each chine..
 

 
the struts were detailed as well..
 

 

 

 

 

 
..next up the tailfeathers... the stabiliser seems to have overlapping panels, with the elevators a joggled but flush panel edge...
 

 
..the card formers I made had tiny brass 'L' sections added to the trailing edge and were filled with P38 - then the skinning started with the outer edges as the panels overlap in this direction..
 

 
..tape and dymo tape guides used to make one piece wrap around panels..
 

 
..the elevators were also done and interstingly have a sheet extension at the trailing edge so this was copied by leaving the brass sheet core exposed..
 

 

 
..the rudder was a sheet brass core with plastic ribs, then covered with scored thin plastic sheet to represent linen - I can't see any evidence of rib tape, but there is a characteristic rib feature i need to add (perhaps this is tape?)
 

 
 

 
..after covering, I added the Flash Gordon style counter weights..
 

 

 
..and while not fitted yet, the tail is virtually complete..
 

 

 
..might do the prop next as it is starting to come together..
 

 

 
TTFN
 
Peter
 

Next I worked on the cockpit.  I haven't found any period photos of the interior, and the instructions are a bit vague on colors and such, so here's my interpretation.  The cockpit parts fit together quite well, but the location of the cockpit in the fuselage leaves a lot of guesswork.  Since I had cut open the side door, I tried to align the bulkheads to be on either side of the door.  Also visible are some of the tabs that I glued to the fuselage near the seam to aid in the alignment of the fuselage halves.
 

Hello:
   
   In between an F-4 and an F-8, I thought I'd do something light and fun: a Geebee!  It kind of has to be out-of-the-box since I don't think there is any aftermarket stuff for the old William's Bros. kit.  
 
   So far, it's been pretty good.  A lot of flash but the fit is quite good. The engine is very nice out of the box, which is good as that's front and center on the Geebee.  I cut off the kit connector rods from the gear box due to some bad mold misalignment, and I made new ones from some Evergreen styrene rod.  The plug wires are some craft bead copper wire.  
 


Mike

Thanks so much for comments everyone!
It means a lot to me...
Cheers
Steve

Hello All,
Bit of an update for you; side walls are finished!
 
All the Placards are mostly Airscale (AS24PLA) with some bespoke ones thrown in There are some Quinta Studio Decals here and there like the Radio Channel Selector Cover The Oxygen and Antifreeze  valving is all 3D Printed with 0.4mm Brass Rod All bespoke photo etching  The Throttle Quadrant is Hawaiian Air Depot concerted to etch The Trim Cable Side Covers are 3D Printed to get the stamped channels represented (missing from the kit) Compressed Air Bottles are 3D Printed to achieve the weld lines and correct size Battery, Terminal Boxes and Light Fittings are 3D Printed Undercarriage System is greatly enhanced by the Airscale Mk.IX Upgrade Set Miniature Brass and Steel Bolts here and there  

 

 

 

 

 

 
Got the two rear frames in so I can wire up the radio;
 

 

 
Thanks for looking!
 

Kit bomb, 500 pounder, I assume. Or I may go with an Eduard 500 pounder or the kit fuel tank, still not sure yet.
 

Was lucky enough to snatch one of Eduard's release of the same kit over at Ebay.
Will be following your build for guidance! 

But it smells so nice!

 

As I recall that kit gives you the ability to build short and long tail Kittyhawks:  P-40E, K, M, N-1
So the P-40N can be built but not with the squared off rear canopy.  I don't think they included that.

I love 1/32 Has P-40 builds....will be watching with much interest.
 
What markings?
 
Cheers
Collin

Today's update
 

Gorgeous paint work.  Looks smoooooooth!
One thing to mention:  You said you sprayed Mission Models straight from the bottle?  Did you use a few drops of the poly additive for strength?  If not beware it may be fragile for masking over!   MM paints produced good results for me but you have to go "by the book" on this brand.

Whilst waiting for the paint to dry I put the time to good use and added a few bits and bobs to the canopy. 
 

 

 
Not neat but I was using my sense of smell to add these as they are way to small for me to see 

Ocean grey applied. 
This is Mission models (MMP-093 Ocean grey RAF WWII Mid/Late) paint straight out of the bottle. 
It went on well and has settled to a smooth, matt finish. 
I bought myself some white tack in readiness for the dark green cammo but I'll need to let this harden for a while before I begin masking.
 

 

I've added the landing gear and started painting, first a little preshading, then the underside and side national insignia along with the fuselage band and theater markings. Getting to the fun part!
 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,  Tom

Today's update
Cockpit is finished.
 

Here we go
First step is the cockpit as usual.
I used Eduard instrument panel.
Trumpy's rudder pedals are wrong. So I replaced them with Hasegawa 's part.
 

Thank you gents, very kind
 
 
 
Hi OBG - the foam is pretty soft really and can be easily deformed with a fingernail for example, but it is stiff and retains it's form. As far as PPE goes, no I don't wear a mask - only when painting really - I know I should though..
 
 
 
Haha Geedubelyer, thats a challenge to get it done by then, though I do feel I am steaming along - I recon there is a month in the trolley & wire wheels it sits on alone, let alone the airframe
 
 
 
Hey Matt, I have a saw toothed riveting template and just taped it to an edge and cut each 'tooth' one by one... yes I am mad..
 
The saga continues with skinning the floats - these are covered in symetric rivet patterns and rather than do panel by panel, I did pairs of panels for each float. I would say over the course of a few days I did ~5k rivets..
 
..here are two pairs with about 1200..
 

 
..again these were only lightly burnished to retain the oil canning seen on the real one - also any panel overlaps on the real one were copied..
 

 

 

 

 
..once complete, I started the struts - I used a 3D extrusion to sheath the brass rods I set at the beginning, and then used ali foil on the floats and fuselage so I can fill to them and it will all unstick cleanly with a matching mating face..
 
..it can all be seen in a jig I had to make so I can get everything aligned properly & the yellow sponges apply enough upward pressure to hold them in place without distorting the position..
 

 

 

 
..the forward upper strut mounts have these odd tails, maybe to deflect water..
 

 
..these were made by embedding stiff wire into the strut and filling around it..
 
some of the mounting stubs are a bit short for my liking, but they can't intrude into the cockpit or they are as long as they can be before they cross each other
 
hopefully when mounted with JB weld they will be ok..
 

 
..skinning these is going to be problematic as it won't be easy for one thing, and they would need to be a perfect fit when assembled so I haven't quite figured out how I will do it all yet..
 

 

 

 

 

 
TTFN
 
Peter
 

I grew up with King's Hobby in Austin.  When I moved to Atlanta, there was AAA Hobbies.  When they made their last move, the guy said it was getting rough because Hobbytown USA was cutting into business (and of course online sales).  AAA is gone...
So Hobbytown is the only place left in Atlanta for plastic kits/supplies.  Fortunately, the guys that run the store are builders and the keep the model section well stocked.  I asked if they could match internet prices and they said 'no'.  I still buy kits from them because I want to keep them going.  That Hobbytown does well because they don't specialize in just one thing.  They do R/C, puzzles, trains.  That seems to be the business model that works here in Atlanta.

Tamiya Masterpiece kit with scratchbuild cannon and gun bays, Eduard seatbelts, ResKit tires, cables and some details added too. Sadly not many companies are willing to make this level of quality kits.




 
 



 

 
 








 
 

Your wish is my command Sir!