BiggTim

RC3213 Bf109G-6AS/G-10/K Supercharger Intake 1/32http://amurreaver.ru/?p=777
 
RC3212 Bf109G-10/K Spinner and Prop Blades 1/32http://amurreaver.ru/?p=768
 
PE3208, PE3209, PE3210, PE3211 Oil cooler meshes for Bf109 1/32http://amurreaver.ru/?p=743
 
As usual, order from site by e-mail http://rust1968@gmail.com , or from Ebay store http://www.ebay.com/sch/rustusmanov/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
We will release new correction set for Revell G-10 (Erla) in this February.
 
Thank you!
 
Alex. 

Well, it`s not an LSP but I did find it at my LHS and it was marked down 25% from the original price so I couldn`t resist:
 

 
Carl

I broke down and did it, too. Some of my other belongings may be showing up on the trader's board soon......

Okay, not much, but I'm feeling left out....
Decals:
For a Whiskey I have...hmm, decisions decisions.



For a Hornet I recently aquired: The Blue Blasters!


Pacific Mustangs....I realll like the blue striped tail, but prefer the pin-up of the green tail. UGH!

So, one of these 2....


....and I have these just on stand by for a Tamiya F-14A 1994 that I'm gonna get someday.




 
Cheers,
Dave

Got a set of paint racks these days    and put them on the wall today:
 

 
Maybe there is some space to add one more or even two?
 
 
Also added a line of hooks to have the most needed Evergreen strips ready at hand.
Racks are made by Hobbyzone of Poland. Each ist just 30x30 cm, plus a small wooden strip on top to mount them onto the wall.
 
- dutik

Archery!! Now there's another of my old hobbies I'd love to pick up again! I used to shoot barebow myself some years ago, and I miss doing it.

PSP material cut (double layer - proofed nylon outer and cotton inner) and basic shape machine sewn (my poor home light weight machine really did struggle here).
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Derek

Those look like great books, I would love to have them! I had to make do with the Squadron Walkaround and In Action books I bought years ago. If I do a larger scale one, I'll definitely need some better references.
 
I guess I could always go visit this one again: http://www.flyingheritage.com/TemplatePlane.aspx?contentId=16
 
I have been there a few times, but I have not been able to be there on a day when they are flying it. It the only flying A-5 with an original BMW 801 engine in it.

Note...i dont got no 2 them books cost a bit...but hell it is worth it if youre in for them wurgers....as i am......this will NOT be the last one i do... ill ashure you....
but ill order my soon, so then i got them all 3, great books, as i really recomend them.
 
/Mal

Ah....
 
Them 1:24....cool....ve never done 1:24...ill stick to them 1:32 want em to fit in the glass cabinett lol...
 
Also yes i know wich one youve don and yes i love it...
 
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=54841
 
http://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=2266
 
I like it alot and the scheme uove chosen.....
 
Also i would tip you obtain some books...yes they helped me alot besides google...to make up your mind on things...they got ALOT of great material....and very interesting reading....quality and very thick ones.....
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
/Mal

I plan to sell mine, but after I build it.  I plan to sell it for more than what I paid though.  I don't keep anything I build anymore for the most part.  Buying at the lowest price point increases my modest margin on resale.  I get to enjoy the build and the wife minds my hobby a lot less if it contributes modestly to the household budget. 

Man, I just can't believe how good that looks! That's the kind of stuff that fires me up and makes me wanna run home form work and get cracking on my own!

Thanks Peter and Alain for them kind words.
 
 
 
Now that fiddle with the fan...GEEEZ ive dryfitted it at least 10 times during the build...tight...but when almost done with it and dryfitted...GHAAA it wont fit.......well redo...just stripped paint,
sanded them neccerary fanblades....new primer...yes..it fits...
 

 
More parts primed...some painted...som even got gloss on them...getting closer day by day...painting them details...weathering with oils...

 
/Mal

Almost done, canopy and winsheald only dryfitted, needing some correction with interior green on edges, also antenna mast, cannon barrels and pitot waiting for epoxy glue which I have run short of. And last but not least the gunsight, which gluing will be quite awkward due to its positioning. After all af this is done, I will make new shots with better light.

God creates dinosaurs. God destroys dinosaurs. God creates man. Man destroys God.
 
Man creates dinosaur toys.

Been doing some sculpting for the Battat toy company while I still recover from Multiple Myeloma. Broke my C-1 vertebrae in mid January, so I'm lucky to be alive as well as not being a quadriplegic!!! Wearing a neck brace 24 x 7 and just finished radiation treatments last week. So, I've fallen behind a bit, but Battat is a GREAT company to do work for! Very understanding. So here are the paint masters of the toys I've finished. Hope you like them. They are available at Target Stores.

Very nice, Mal! So much more realistic than my 190 - I've got to work on my weathering techniques!

Thanks All for them nice comments.....
 
 
More done.....some dressing them legs.....wire...some scratch to....

 

 
/Mal

Well, after a few weeks in the digital age I suppose it's time to get back to some "real" modelling!
 
For the cockpit and indeed the entire nose section to progress I really needed to get on with the instrument panel. I wanted to use Peter's exceptional air scale decals and etched bezels for this and after I had the profile shape of the instrument panel I had to work out what went where. The layout is completely different from the G and indeed it seems between even C models which is where my reference came from. 
 
Due to the amount of instruments and not having enough decals on hand (I also used a few of the kits ones, you can see the difference between the two!) I went for a "generic" look with at least something to show in each instrument face. I'm sure it's highly inaccurate but for how much you'll actually be able to see of it through the windows I think I can live with it!
 

 
So you can see in the above photo the instruments laid out onto their backing. I had previously decided to mount the bezels onto another piece so as to show depth, but that piece looked way too thick and it seemed as though you'd be looking way down the dash to see the dials. I also wanted to simulate glass so I tried using a piece of clear styrene sheet sprayed flat black with the instrument "holes" masked out and then tried to attach the bezels using matt varnish. 
 
This idea turned out terrible. So terrible infact that pulled all the bezels off and soaked them in thinners straight away and couldn't even bring myself to take a picture of it!
 
I decided the only practical way forward was brass, with the bezels soldered on. First of all I needed to cut all the holes, but my makeshift punch set wasn't really cutting the mustard so to speak so I opted to drill all the holes out. To do that in really thin brass I had to first clamp it between two pieces of aluminium and drill all the holes using my mill and a laser centre for accuracy.
 

 
Because some of the decals weren't exactly in the same place as the original piece, there was some minor "off centre" adjustments to do for each hole (you might be able to make out the arrows for the correction directions).
 
It took quite a while, but eventually I had all the holes drilled and no deformation to the brass!
 

 
Then the moment of truth, how close did I get.....?
 

 
Not entirely perfect but it'll do!
 
The next challenge was how to solder each bezel on. For those that haven't played with these, they are exceptionally fine brass renderings and they are three dimensional. My first thought was to place each one over the hole and tape down three sides while soldering the first side, then repeat. That just turned into a whopping great mess and the tape burnt. Then I tried tinning each bezel, then finally the MUCH better way of tinning the whole face, so all I had to do was coat each bezel in flux and set it on top.
 

 
Once again, looks a right mess but I'd committed by now so no turning back, surely I can clean it up later right?
 

 
And after no small amount of filing and sanding.....
 

 
And one last check to make sure everything still lined up........ 
 

 
I'm sure there's a much better way to do this, but I think this should look okay under a coat of paint....
 
There's some kind of control box at the right hand end of the panel on the co-pilot's side that I'll add next and some more little switches and things out of styrene, but that will have to wait till another time.
 
More to come.....
 
 
Craig
 

Thanks guys for the info!
 
March 15/15

A small update, but after a lot of work.  As noted above, the trailing edge of the aileron looked weird because there was an overlapping tab that seemed too long on the bottom.  A quick review of reference pics shows that this tab exists on the bottom, but I couldn't find the same thing on the top due to lack of good pics, so I was worried that Trumpeter might have put the tab on the wrong side, which is not a stretch for Trumpeter!  As a matter of fact, when reviewing other builds of this kit, I found that some modelers had actually sanded the tab off because they might have thought it was flash and I even saw one build with the ailerons upside down!

Thanks to Vandy and John, I now know that this tab exists on the top and bottom.  Here's a pic of one of them from the top showing the fixed tab and trailing edge extension.  As with the other parts on this build, every panel line was re-scribed and every rivet re-punched, so I added some dark wash to show the detail.





To replicate the same the same thing on the bottom ,all I did was to scribe a thin tab to match the top.  
Being on the bottom, this is definitely “good enoughâ€!





All of the other flaps and the elevator were assembled and I spent a great deal of time getting them to look as good as possible, using lots of CA glue to fill small gaps and repair many flaws .  One item often missed by modelers is to get the trailing edges super sharp and thin, which you can barely see in this pic.





Since this build is supposedly “kicked up a notchâ€, I thought I should improve the gun sight, which is supplied by the kit and Cutting Edge resin set as the more commonly used N-9, which is quite boring looking, as seen on the left of this pic.  Fortunately, I still have a really nice K-14 gun sight from my Tamiya P-51D build leftover, which is made from 2 regular plastic, 3 clear plastic and one photo-etch brass part as shown on the right.  Some P-38's had them, so this bird must as well!





Using the same methods I used to paint and detail the cockpit, I cut off the N-9 gun sight and modified the K-14 to fit the existing kit gun sight arm, although I will need to add a cross brace to the front windscreen when I get that far in order for it to look more accurate.  Here it is dry fitted in the cockpit with tape.





A close-up from the left side.  Not only did those Barracuda stencils come in handy, a couple of them are actually made for this very part!






From the rear you can see the rear and front glass, which is often not covered by the black shroud on top.  I added an electrical cord to the back of the sight according to references.






The other side.  Here you can see the grip detail of the Cutting Edge resin steering wheel fairly well







This angle shows the two circular lenses under the glass, which were a bear to mask off properly before painting.







A little closer.







All in all a fairly successful modification if I do say so myself.  Thanks for checking in!

The engines were airbrush painted in silver / black / green from the outside. 
Also all small stuff is painted in its colors, before all parts were mounted to the engines.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Next steps: Weathering of the engines, installing of the engines in the framework, weathering of the framework.
 
Cheers
Michael

Thank you Ralph-D and  Thanks Harv! I missed you!
    And two more.....
   resin bits from a F-16A pit.....
    
        Thank you everyone, thanks a million.
         
         Lather, rinse, repeat

OK, I've been chipping away at this one in the background, and making some slow progress. I've got to the point where I can start applying the decals:
 

 
Quite a lot more to apply yet! The decals themselves are well printed, but a bit thick, and they also have a tendency to tear. My "ENTERPRISE" is a bit wonky due to having to piece it back together. And you can really see in the photo above that the base grey I've chosen is indeed too dark. Oh well.
 
Here are the nacelles:
 

 
I just need to add the towel racks and they're done. Here's a close-up of one of the bussard thingies:
 

 
You can't see it in the photos, but to the naked eye the carrier film on the decals is very noticeable, so I'm planning to lay down a number of coats of a clear satin finish to try to even out the surface reflectivity.
 
The photos in this post represent the first time I've ever shot anything in RAW mode, and the difference is immediately obvious. The colours are much closer to the real thing, and the lighting appears more even and natural - even after I've converted them to JPEG so I can post them. The main downside to shooting in RAW with my current camera is that there's virtually no software support on the Mac for it, so I'm not sure if I'll persist. I had to use Photoshop and the Adobe RAW converter to import and open them, and while this works well, it's represents significantly more hassle than my usual quick'n'dirty workflow with iPhoto. The results may just be worth it though, and I'll continue to experiment.
 
And before I go, I'd just like to thank Larry Johnson for sending me the missing part for this kit, which arrived safe'n'sound today - and just in the nick of time. Many thanks Larry!
 
Kev

I normally use this stuff to fill my diorama's.But this is out of production and I don't have enough left to fill the whole base with a thick layer.
 

 
 
So I decided to create my own "pate a bois" to give a base.
I mixed fine sawdust with wallpaper glue. I now hope it dries hard to be able to give a final layer with the real paste.
 
 
It's still wet at this time.
 
 
 

The bunker is done.I made the base and will start on the scenery .